Borgeson adapter

[ROKuberski]

Yes, I figured that this kit would work with the Y block too. 

Canadian Ranchero, you note that I can't use the stock hollow steering shaft.  That's the first I've heard that.  The Unisteer kit does provide a new center shaft which eliminates any connections issues but their price tag is getting in my way.  I am tempted to find out what a machine shop would charge to make up a shaft.

I am still leaning towards Borgeson.

Rich

[canadian_ranchero]

Yes, I figured that this kit would work with the Y block too. 

Canadian Ranchero, you note that I can't use the stock hollow steering shaft.  That's the first I've heard that.  The Unisteer kit does provide a new center shaft which eliminates any connections issues but their price tag is getting in my way.  I am tempted to find out what a machine shop would charge to make up a shaft.

I am still leaning towards Borgeson.

Rich  i used the solid inner shaft because i felt there would be stronger joint when the shaft was pinned and welded to the coupler

[ROKuberski]

I ordered all of the parts for the Borgeson system. I bought the pump and gear box on eBay from a seller called "BUYAUTOPARTS".  It's the 16:1 gearbox.  They had a BIN and Make Offer on these items and they accepted $500 for the gear box and $300 for the pump.  All in all, I will have just a little over $900 in parts in this system.  I know that Borgeson is currently sell the 14:1 gear box, but this only has a 3.2 degree difference per revolution of the steering wheel.  While that may be detectable when driving, I don't think it is important.  I don't know what the current ratio is, but I would guess way more than 16:1.

I also bought some parts to modify my stock horn so that I can still use it after cutting off the steering shaft. 

And just to keep busy, I've also got a pinion seal, input shaft seal for the transmission and a new rear main seal for the engine.  My car leaks everything but coolant.  None of the leaks are very bad, but I HATE LEAKS.  Hopefully, this will resolve that problem.

When all this is done, I'm going to give the power brake booster another try.  I've got all the parts and am using a different master cylinder.  Maybe I'll have more luck this time.

Rich

[lalessi1]

Rich congrats on "pulling the trigger". Very interested in the results with the Borgeson as that is what I am planning. I think you made a good decision on the 16:1 box, I think the stock box is 19:1, 4.5 turns lock to lock. The improvement is hopefully awesome. Leaks...ugh! I am almost convinced the are eventually "standard equipment".  Hope you booster works out too!

[gasman826]

automatic rust proofing

[ROKuberski]

automatic rust proofing

Yes, I hear you.  However, even though we get plenty of snow here, including 1/2" last night, they don't use much salt and rust is not a problem.  I have a lift and I park my Corvette under the Fairlane.  Needless to say, I've got drip pans in place.

I was thinking, my engine has been rebuilt.  Crank was ground .020".  So now it is slightly undersized. I am not aware of using different seals in this situation.  Anyone know if that is something I should look into?

I've wanted to do this for several years, but it takes me a while to convince myself that I done the research and made the best choice for me.  Since I am retired, I watch cost a little more closely.  After all, it's not like I need this car, but we do have fun with it.  And, my wife never complains about it.  That's a very good thing.

I'll take some pictures and get them posted.

Rich

[VwDrvFnd]

Watching this very closely also, I have had the parts sitting here waiting to this install but I am going to be using an aftermarket tilt column and doing a 3 Speed standard to AOD swap at the same time. I have not yet ordered the column as I want it to be as snug up to the dash as I can get it. And I am not sure if there is going to be clearance room at the floor board for shifter linkage.

[hiball3985]

When cranks are ground under size the only grind the main and rod journals the surface that the main seal is on never changes. There are two types of seals, the original rope type and the newer rubber type. plus two side seals on the seal retainer. Regardless of which one you use they are a total PITA major project to change with the motor in the car. Do some research on that subject.

[ROKuberski]

I have installed the two piece rear main before.  As you say, not all that much fun.  The good news is that I now believe that my oil leak is from the distributor.  With the transmission out you can see the whole back of the engine is wet. 

Power steering parts arrive tomorrow.  Likely won't get started on this until after Mother's Day.

Rich

[hiball3985]

Good news, that will avoid one headache. The Y's are prone to leaking at the back of the valve covers and valley cover also. Those old style cork gaskets weren't the best. They make rubber ones for the valve covers and valley cover.

Y's don't leak, they are just marking their territory 

[ROKuberski]

Y's don't leak, they are just marking their territory 

Jim,

I guess you could say that I too am making a statement.  "NO LEAKS!"  At least I hope that is the result.  When I had the engine apart a few years ago I did not remove the distributor.  If it turns out that the valley pan is leaking, I will pull the intake and fix that too.  It will give me a chance to drill the valley pan for a PCV valve.  I now have one installed in the hole for the draft tube and I don't like the look of a hose running all way down there.  However, my oil stays cleaner now that I have that installed.  I've also seen an oil fill tube cap with a hose connection on it, which can only be for a PCV connection.  But for that to work I would have to reinstall the draft tube.  Air has to get in there somehow.

Rich

[hiball3985]

Rich,
A PCV system is the way to go even if it's not original. I'm using a valley cover from a 62 truck that had a PCV system. I have a filler cap with the hose connection and the hose goes to the air cleaner, the road draft tube is not used and blocked off. If you look at 61 and later blocks there isn't even a hole in the casting for a draft tube. Good luck with your NO LEAKS endeavor, something I have never accomplished..

[ROKuberski]

May 7th - Day 1 of the install

It's a wet cold miserable day outside, but just fine in the garage.  I started the project by doing what I thought would be easy.  I installed the power steering pump.  First off, the small bolt that is at the top of the bracket goes into the block through the water pump could not be removed.  That bolt hits the water pump pulley (I have a three groove pulley, that may be a factor.)  So, I had to remove the fan and water pump pulley to extract the bolt.  Then throw that bolt in you junk box and buy a 5/16 X 4-1/2" long bolt.  I also had to remove my gas line from the pump to the carb.  It runs straight up from the pump right into the power steering pump.  So, I can modify that later.  The Borgeson bracket fits perfect and the pulley lines up with the third groove (closest to the radiator.)  I'll measure that for a new vee belt later.

I have the existing steering box loose from the frame and have removed the pitman arm.  Horn ring is off and I will tackle the removal of the steering wheel shortly.  I hope to have all the existing steering gear/shaft removed today.   If I have any energy left, I will put in the new steering gear.  I ordered the coupler and hoses direct from Borgeson and they have not yet arrived. 

PM Update - With a little help from my wife I got the old steering gear box and steering column out of the car.  Once again, not as easy as the shop manual makes it out to be.  The gear box jammed between the exhaust manifold and the fender liner.  My wife was trying to assist in the car as I tried to align and shove the gear box through the firewall.  Finally, I went in the car and gave a mighty tug and it came through.  Had to rotate the gear box and turn the column way over towards the passenger side of the car and it finally came free. 

I now have the new gear box set into position but not bolted tight.  The pump is mounted and I have a belt on it.  I feel like major progress was made today.  I'm not cutting the shaft until I have the coupler in hand.  I feel like I am past the worst part of the project and it only took about 3 hours of work.

More to follow,

Rich   

[gasman826]

I feel your pain.  I changed out steering box last spring.  I don't bend very well anymore so I take the front seat out.  Extra work but makes things much easier.

[ROKuberski]

I hear you.  I've taken mine out too, only four bolts so no big deal.  However, with my lift, I have the car up a few feet and I am not even crawling in there most of the time.

I'm taking Mother's Day off and will attack it again Monday.

Rich