What do I need to know about narrowing a 9" with Explorer Disc Brakes?

[KYBlueOval]

Coming up soon will be the narrowing of the 9" rear end that will be used on my '57 Ranchero. I've read about narrowing it 3/4 '' as well as 1 ". What are the Pros and Cons of either size reduction?  I've got 2001 Ford Explorer Rear Disc brakes that I'm planning on using on this narrowed rear end.  What problems might I encounter with this set up?  Should the backing plates be set up such that the E-Brake cables come out at the top or the bottom of the backing plate?  I know I'll need new tube ends. Planning on using Big Bearing, Torino style tube ends. What tube end source do you recommend?  Axles........lots of them available. What do you  recommend I buy  and where do I buy them?  I'm not building a high horsepower Ranchero, so the axles do not need to be race quality.
I've asked a lot of questions, hoping that the Forum will keep me on track to do it once and do it right. So please enlighten me and tell me what I need to know that hasn't been covered above.
Thanks
John

[Lgcustom]

I have Moser 31 spline axles in my stock 9" housing and have been happy with them. I still have the small bearing ends and drum brakes. The axles use sealed bearings with an o-ring on the outer diameter to seal the lube from leaking. Had a problem with cutting the o-ring on  one axle but after that, no problems.

[hiball3985]

John, did you read what Rich posted about a week ago on the Explorer rear end narrowing in the Tech Info section?

[KYBlueOval]

John, did you read what Rich posted about a week ago on the Explorer rear end narrowing in the Tech Info section?

No I did not , but I'll look for it right away.
Thank you!!!
John

[RICH MUISE]

That article was one that had the link posted on the Hamb, and I thought it would be good to have it here. It is about the explorer rear end though, not using just the explorer disc setup. I can't remember if we had a thread on that or not.
As far as the 3/4 or 1" goes...I never measured but I have visibly less clearance (I think) on the inside than I do on the outside at the fender with my case narrowed 3/4". That would of course get worse if I had narrowed it the full 1" I was thinking about. With 235 tires on the back, and a 4 1/4 backspace wheel, I have 1 3/8 clearance at the fender lip. My opinion is the 3/4 is adequate, the 1" may cause clearance issues on the inside with wider tires, but that could be resolved with 1/4" wheel spacers if it occurs.

[KYBlueOval]

That article was one that had the link posted on the Hamb, and I thought it would be good to have it here. It is about the explorer rear end though, not using just the explorer disc setup. I can't remember if we had a thread on that or not.
As far as the 3/4 or 1" goes...I never measured but I have visibly less clearance (I think) on the inside than I do on the outside at the fender with my case narrowed 3/4". That would of course get worse if I had narrowed it the full 1" I was thinking about. With 235 tires on the back, and a 4 1/4 backspace wheel, I have 1 3/8 clearance at the fender lip. My opinion is the 3/4 is adequate, the 1" may cause clearance issues on the inside with wider tires, but that could be resolved with 1/4" wheel spacers if it occurs.

Thanks Rich...........exactly the information I'm looking for. Any recommendations /advice on the Tube Ends. I've looked at Currie's and a lot of others on E-bay, etc..I vast difference in pricing..............don't know if there is a comparable  vast difference in quality.
Axles.......any recommendations here, good or bad?
As always thanks for your help.
John

[gasman826]

Mosier, Strange, Currier, etc. sites all have measuring instructions and check sheets for axle ordering...good information.  I would start with the wheel tire combination.  Making a wheel fit the car can be very expensive.  Narrow the rear end to fit the wheels.  There are many axle suppliers out there.  The price spread between no-name and the recognised leaders is not enough to take a chance on quality and support.  The same with housing ends.  I prefer Big Bearing Old style with the seal separate from the bearing.  Explorer brakes work great.  Parts readily available.  Parking brake works great with '57 hand activated brake system.  Both OEM and aftermarket (Lokar) brake cables available.

[KYBlueOval]

Mosier, Strange, Currier, etc. sites all have measuring instructions and check sheets for axle ordering...good information.  I would start with the wheel tire combination.  Making a wheel fit the car can be very expensive.  Narrow the rear end to fit the wheels.  There are many axle suppliers out there.  The price spread between no-name and the recognised leaders is not enough to take a chance on quality and support.  The same with housing ends.  I prefer Big Bearing Old style with the seal separate from the bearing.  Explorer brakes work great.  Parts readily available.  Parking brake works great with '57 hand activated brake system.  Both OEM and aftermarket (Lokar) brake cables available.

Gasman........I was hoping you would chime in on this. Thank you. I know what I'm going to use in regards to Tires and Wheels, so that's one more item resolved.
As to axle suppliers..........I was looking for any preferences towards a particular supplier, or for that matter, any supplier to not consider.I agree with your comment about the cost difference between no-name and brand name

Now to housing ends. I'm a neophyte on housing ends and this entire narrowing process, so I must ask a few more questions. Would you please explain the differences to me regarding the housing ends and your preference for the Old Style with a separate seal.
Explorer Brakes.......... I have all of the parts and pieces from a 2001 Explorer, and will use, and have used a Lokar brake cable on other cars. I've got a '68 Ford Foot Activated Parking Brake assembly I'm planning on using. I've read that some people have swapped the right and left rear caliper set ups to achieve a bottom location for the Parking Brake Cable, and I was inquiring if this is in fact the best way to go, or mount them as they were on the Explorer, with the cable at the top?
Thanking you in advance.
John

[gasman826]

Nothing against Currie (I have some Currie stuff), Strange and Moser are Midwest companies...you know...home team, quicker, cheaper shipping.  I went with Strange and super happy.  I called Tech Support about a two year old purchase.  In as instant, they had my purchase history in front of them.  Not only answered my question but I was talking to one of the owners...one of the founder's sons!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The bearing choice is a personal thing.  I've had no one support my theory.  Just my experience...Early and Late Big Bearings have the same ID and OD.  A late bearing will replace an early bearing but not the other way around.  The early bearing and seal need more finished surface for the bearing and separate seal.  Late bearing axles are not machined for the early seal.  Late axle ends are not machined for the early seal.  I don't care for late bearings because the seal is intergrated.  If it leaks...whole new bearing must be replaced and they are more expensive than early bearing and seal.
If you install a late bearing and it does not leak, super.  If it leaks, scrap the bearing.  I used to change center sections every weekend (4:56 ratio for drag racing...3:50 during the week).  Late bearings do not like to be disturbed.  I'm cheap and would rather buy a seal any day rather than buying the whole bearing/seal.  I also tried buying cheaper bearings and had to replace because they leaked.  Strange bearings do not leak.  If you use quality late bearings and don't take them apart often...late big bearings are fine.  Early bearing axle end bolt pattern is a little off for the Explorer caliper support to bolt up without a little modifying.  Direct bolt on for the late bearing end.

The standard disclaimer applies.  Opinions are based on too many years of experience and facts may be blurry.  If I were to do this today, I would update my research and run it by the supplier for confirmation!!!!

The Explorer parking brake works excellent with the '57 OEM hand brake IF the under chassis linkage is used.  I would speculate that with a foot brake mechanism, the linkage would not be necessary. 

If you are narrowing, you should have a jig!!

[KYBlueOval]

Gasman, thanks again for your thoughts. My Ranchero will be a cruiser and with a little luck, once I put the rear end together, I won't have to go into it any time soon I hope!
I have Moser Axles in another car and I'm pleased.I liked your comments on Strange. Customer Service AFTER the sale is high on my list.
I'd still like to find out the best approach / first hand experience on the Explorer Brakes in regards to the position of the cable.........Top of the backing plate or Bottom of the plate. I'm in agreement with you that the foot operated parking brake should eliminate the linkage.
Through a good friend, I have access to a complete jig, specifically made for narrowing a rear end. He would do it for me, but it's racing season and he has a new car he's built and he's breaking it in and working out the bugs. No time for cutting my rear end down unless I wait till fall.
Thanks again for your help.
John

[RICH MUISE]

I think Gary's right on with his comments, especially bringing up the matching of the chosen disc brakes to the bearing end size/design. My disc brake kit choices were severely limited because I made the wrong choice. My memory is getting bad, but I can go back an check, but just as a point of consideration, I believe it is the early style that Gary prefers that limit the kit selection. There's also another factor that came into play that I'm trying to recall...something about offset or spacing that varies from new to old style bearing ends.
Keep in mind Gary's concerns would be greater  because he's built a race car, but as mentioned maybe not that great a price difference between knowns and unknowns. When I had my rear built by a shop that builds racecars, I got alot of comments like "I would go a different route if it were built for racing, but for your purposes, this is the way to go"...
What are your plans for the rest of the rear...are you replacing gears, changing to trac loc, etc etc?
I left alot of the decisions on the what's and who's (In particular the trac-loc selection) to the shop that built my differential because I trusted him and don't know s#$@ about them anyways. If your going to change axels, this obviously would be the time to make a decision on new gears/tracloc, 28 vs 31 spline, etc.

[KYBlueOval]

I think Gary's right on with his comments, especially bringing up the matching of the chosen disc brakes to the bearing end size/design. My disc brake kit choices were severely limited because I made the wrong choice. My memory is getting bad, but I can go back an check, but just as a point of consideration, I believe it is the early style that Gary prefers that limit the kit selection. There's also another factor that came into play that I'm trying to recall...something about offset or spacing that varies from new to old style bearing ends.
Keep in mind Gary's concerns would be greater  because he's built a race car, but as mentioned maybe not that great a price difference between knowns and unknowns. When I had my rear built by a shop that builds racecars, I got alot of comments like "I would go a different route if it were built for racing, but for your purposes, this is the way to go"...
What are your plans for the rest of the rear...are you replacing gears, changing to trac loc, etc etc?
I left alot of the decisions on the what's and who's (In particular the trac-loc selection) to the shop that built my differential because I trusted him and don't know s#$@ about them anyways. If your going to change axels, this obviously would be the time to make a decision on new gears/tracloc, 28 vs 31 spline, etc.

Rich.......yes there are some clearance issues with these back brakes, bearing, axles etc.. that I'll sort out before making any cuts, by calling Currie, Strange, Moser etc.. The pumpkin is rebuilt and ready to go, whenever I get the narrowing finished. I can then order new shorter axles.
Thanks

[gasman826]

I left the parking brake location OEM.  I have no cable routing issues but I don't have leaf springs.  Flipping the backer plates upside down is interesting.

I found this setup tool several years ago.  Great help for axle measurement, pinion center line, and housing end placement.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-9-Ford-Measuring-Tool-The-Rearend-Ruler-Calculate-Axle-Length-More-/231827428536?hash=item35f9fdd4b8:m:m-DawckmHDOAiR2sG3krVYg&vxp=mtr

[KYBlueOval]

I left the parking brake location OEM.  I have no cable routing issues but I don't have leaf springs.  Flipping the backer plates upside down is interesting.

I found this setup tool several years ago.  Great help for axle measurement, pinion center line, and housing end placement.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-9-Ford-Measuring-Tool-The-Rearend-Ruler-Calculate-Axle-Length-More-/231827428536?hash=item35f9fdd4b8:m:m-DawckmHDOAiR2sG3krVYg&vxp=mtr

I'll buy that tool..........I like that !
Thanks