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Steering box

Started by Johnnyboy, 2016-08-19 19:01

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Johnnyboy

Quote from: ricky knight on 2016-08-21 06:27
I have a 58 steering box with the pitman arm attached if you are interested.

How much, condition, Where are you located?

ricky knight

as far as i know its in good condition i am in Georgia. 100.00 plus shipping

clusterbuster

Johnnyboy, before you replace your steering box I recommend you call Roger at Rode's Restoration(419-468-5182) as he is very well versed in the old Ford manual steering boxes and can advise you. He rebuilds with state of the art equipment and  also sells reconditioned boxes.

Johnnyboy

Cool, Ill give him a call. Thanks!

sprink88

If you don't mind.... try a boneyard and get the whole box, pitman arm, shaft and wheel.  That way everything is there
~Chris

81TTA

Quote from: hiball3985 on 2016-08-20 09:16
I don't think you can find a new one and don't know what parts are available to do a rebuild. The 57 box is really a piece of crap design compared to the 58 and later ones. Rebuilding one require knowledge of setting bearing preloads and gear mesh loads, not really something for someone without that knowledge and tools.

Do you know of any written descriptions for 57 steering box rebuilds?  I'm considering rebuilding a box for my Dad's car.  If there are specific things that are needed to get a 57 box to work well that aren't common knowledge (or just easy to figure out when looking at the parts), I'd like to start there.  I believe virtually all the parts, with the exception of the "box" itself, are available through the aftermarket.  Bearings, shims, shafts all appear pretty easy to get, if needed.

I've read, although almost everything has been anecdotal, that 58-and-up boxes are "better" due to the recirculating ball design.  What I've never heard are the specifics of why.  I'm thinking one of the big reasons is that, as you mentioned, the design is better for less wear over time/use.  So, when someone in 2016 is looking for a drop-in replacement (except for horn wire routing) that's not worn out, 58-and-up are the better bet.  And, if things were still original, comparing anything newer than 59 years old was probably going to be an improvement, too!  :)  Obviously, there are variables regarding how worn things are, too.  Replacing a 57 box with 100,000 miles with a 58+ box from a 10,000 mile car in the junkyard is great.  Replacing a 10,000 mile part with the 100,000 mile part, not so great.

It would be interesting to know if there is any real difference in steering behavior (play, wheel effort) given rebuilt 57 and 58+ boxes done by knowledgeable people with good parts.  Could it be said that there isn't anyone on earth who could rebuild a 57 box that will work just like 58+?  Or, are there other differences in things like the steering ratio that make 58+ better?  I've seen a few write-ups on this site for converting 57->58.  But, if the 57 box can be rebuilt to similar specs, I'd prefer to avoid chasing down all the additional 58 parts.

clusterbuster

Give Roger a call at the number I provided for Johneyboy in the previous reply and Roger can answer all those specific questions you have.

JPotter57

Johnnyboy, the 58 box is better all around than the 57 box.  That is why that until Ford went to rack and pinion, it was the design choice.  The 58 box offers reduced effort to steer, stronger more reliable design, and is a more compact box.  I ran one in my last 57, this one has a similar box from a 63 Galaxie.  Main difference is this one uses a rag joint.  I choose the later boxes because the 57 is a big car, and if using normal size tires on front, are a pain in the rear to turn when stopped or at very low speeds.  I also dont use the original semi truck sized steering wheel.  The final reason I use the 58 box is for improved header clearance with my big block in this one, and the big tube headers I had on my last one...It's just a better box all the way around.
1957 Ford Custom 427 2x4 4 spd
Old, loud, and fast.

rmk57

#23
Worm and sector vs recirculating ball. I could see the later having a tighter feel when new, but when there worn there no screaming hell either. Biggest steering improvement I did to my 57 was put radial tires on it, made it like a brand new car.

81TTA makes a good point about replacing an ok box with a worse newer box.

Welcome by the way.
Randy

1957 Ford Custom
1970 Boss 429

Johnnyboy

Hey all, thanks for the  reply on the steering box. Im going to take your advice and get a 58 box so as not to have to change everything on the front end. I have a line on one and will get it soon. I didnt leave the site just busy with life. It was cool reading the responses to my "new member" post and fully understand everyone's views on the  Ford / Chevy thing. Thanks for havin me regardless!!! I do have a 1957 Ford wagon so I will need the info and views on any other parts of the car and I believe this sight is as good as any if not better to get that!

Took a brake from the gasser build and got back into my Small engine obsession....antique/vintage Briggs and strattons and an addition to to my sickness turn of the century hit and miss engines (no Fords or Chevys in there) Thanks again and if you see the "Talks Cheap" gasser at the Hunnert car heads up or the Melt down drags at Byron Dragway come on over and give me some **** Ill be glad to take it!

Zapato

I seem to remember talking to an old timer and he told me a lot of small engine builders would use model-T rods and pistons as the cost of buying them made it foolish to even think of making them. So maybe there is a bit of Ford in those old engines you love


Zap -  :unitedstates:
Zapato

Cruise low and slow.......Nam class of '72