Fixed rear side window install

lalessi1 · 2017-02-11 17:56

I finalized my template. It wound up very close to John's except for the length and the corner details. I will have a glass cut and install it as a "proof". All of the corners are pretty good inside and out. Stay tuned.....

lalessi1 · 2017-02-21 08:31

Picked up the glass and installed it. The results are not quite as good as I had hoped for. The corners are acceptable, outsides are fine and where the insides are buckled slightly the trim holds them down. The issue I am having is that all along the top the gasket wants to roll out. It is worse with the glass than with the plywood so I will have the glass edges sanded a little rounder in profile (they are more square than I would like). The glass can be shimmed by as much as an 1/8" up and down but it is still pretty tight. A little bit of glue and sealant will fix everything but I am trying to get it as close as I can.

RICH MUISE · 2017-02-21 08:42

Glad to hear you got the inside of the corners to the point the garnish rail/window moulding will hold it flat. I couldn't get my insides to flatten out any where close. I'm hoping my new rubber will be more flexible.
I don't understand what you are meaning when you say the top wants "to roll out".

My install on the passenger side got shelved for a while.....all the house hunting, and now I've been packing up my garage for the past week or so...haven't hardly made a dent yet.
Your "rolling out" problem: I remember pulling gently on the seal with flat nose pliers to position it correctly, then shimming at the bottom so everything was tight and held the seal where I wanted it. I think the inside and outside will be even height-wise against the glass when it is in the correct position. Not sure if all that is what you're refering to as "roll out"

fordaholic · 2017-02-21 21:31

Just offering. If anyone needs a template off a factory orig. business coupe quarter glass, let me know .

RICH MUISE · 2017-02-21 22:01

Good to know...thanks for offering. I'm going to use mine as is. Mine were sent to Oklahoma for tempering, so got a bit pricey, and they are close enough.
I don't need a template, but we would be curious to know what the overall height and length are.

lalessi1 · 2017-02-22 07:35

Quote from: fordaholic on 2017-02-21 21:31
Just offering. If anyone needs a template off a factory orig. business coupe quarter glass, let me know .

I would LOVE to have an original template! I will PM you.

fordaholic · 2017-02-22 16:04

For you Rich ! 31 3/16 x 13

RICH MUISE · 2017-02-22 20:10

Thank you sir.

lalessi1 · 2017-03-15 20:06

The latest update....I received the template from an original 70D Ford glass from fordaholic (thanks Gary) and I compared it with John's template that came with the brackets, the glass I had cut to match it, and the template I made from scratch. It still seems to me that the main issue is with John's template. The directions on John's template call for a cut to be made 1.375" from the bottom of the 70A glass parallel to the bottom. The resulting glass does not match the original 70D template, the cut should taper from 1.25" in the front to 1.5" in the back. My scratch template matches the front and bottom of the 70D but it is about 3/16" taller across the length of the top and about 1/4" longer in the back with a little variation in the front upper corner curve and the rear curve. I had glass cut to my template locally and installed it on both sides. The rubber lays flat inside and out in the corners with no glue or sealant on both sides. The gasket reveal matches the inside trim well except in the very rear corner. The other issue is the gasket does not want to lie flat against the glass at the top on the inside and it conforms outside with a rounder profile than the front or the bottom (seems like it wants to rotate to the outside a little). While not perfect, the installation is acceptable, I will seal the rubber with 3M Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound 08509.

I think had I used the original 70D template in the first place, this may have solved many issues...

JPotter57 · 2017-09-25 11:48

Lynn, do you mind passing along a copy of that template to me? I was installing my interior quarter trim and my driver side quarter came out...It truly pissed me off so I went to the auto parts store and picked up a tube of late model windshield urethane and glued the glass in without the aggravating rubber. I figured if anyone ever came up with a solution that actually works, I would redo it correctly. FOr now, I am happy with the glued in glass.. When I redo it, it will only be with correct glass and rubber.

lalessi1 · 2017-09-25 13:32

Hey James, no problem. I have to be in Biloxi on the Oct 3rd. I have been trying to get over your way to visit with my '57. What are you doing for Cruisin' the Coast?

Ecode70D · 2019-11-19 08:28

Quote from: Ron on 2016-10-09 13:16
Rich--What are the advantages of converting from the roll-up to the fixed rear windows? I don't have a '57 2-door sedan (unfortunately), but I do have a '56 Fairlane Club Sedan with nicely-functioning roll-up rear windows. Just curious what the advantages are for going to the fixed glass. Thanks, Ron...

Ron.. I always thought that it was for just a little bit of security for the businessman who had his wares on the back tray behind the front seat. Roll down back windows accidentally open could be a temptation.
Then again I could be wrong and this wouldn't be the first time,

gasman826 · 2019-11-19 11:29

It was cheaper! I did it to reduce weight and the rubber gasket seals dust and water as well as not rattling. The quarter glass didn't go all the way down anyway. Plus it was rare. My '41 business coupe had one wiper, one door lock, one arm rest, and just the left taillight.

RICH MUISE · 2020-02-06 19:48

Well, I finally got around to replacing the seal on my passenger side, and this time it worked out much better and easier. I'm still working with glass that was cut too small, but there's an easy fix for that with a product I recently found doing house stuff. As Lynn had posted earlier, the seal fitment is all dependent on the correct glass size. I had previously tried to fill that space with wood spacers, a pita!.
I tried the new seal on the glass, and just as before it was way too loose. I already knew the 2 front corners were too big also, not having enough glass material to push the seal into the car's body. Liquid Nails makes a "it sticks almost everything" adhesive called FLEX-IT. The stuff is great for every difficult adhesion problem I've solved with it. It's a full size cartrige. It's like a stiff flexible rubber when it dries. I used the flex-it to build up the edges of the glass. First, I put masking tape on one side, 1/2 the width of the tape overhanging the glass. This let me build up the edge while the glass was laying on a flat workbench. I built it out about 5/16" which I figured was more than I needed. I started at the top front coner and went down and then across the bottom and then up and around the big back corner, ending there. None on the topside. I knew it was going to take a day or two to set up, so I wanted to make sure I had more than I needed so I could trim (utility knife) to the final size without having to do a second buildup and two day wait. After the stuff sets up (I waited 2 days), the masking tape surprisingly peels right off. After I roughly trimmed the bumps and excess blobs, I used a razor blade to trim the topside of the adhesive flush with the glass. The masking tape/flat workbench kept it flush on the bottomside. The Flex-It stuck real well to the glass, as advertised. I then put the seal on the glass for a trial fit. It was obvious I made it too long and the buildup on the large back corner wasn't going to allow the seal to fit into the opening. I trimmed all of what I added to that back corner off and did another checkfit. Perfect! It was about as big as the glass could be and still allow the seal to be pulled outwards thru the opening. After it was set in I had about 1/8" up and down movement, same front to back.
So.........a one sentence summary: build up the edge of the glass to the correct size if necessary, install the seal/glass assembly onto the car.
You'll need someone on the inside pushing outwards on the back corner while you're pulling the seal's outer lip over the body opening.
On to the next step

RICH MUISE · 2020-02-06 20:28

Materials you'll need to finish up: a pair of flat nose mini-pliers, gel super glue (just 4 or 5 drops), and some wedge spacers the thickness to correspond with how much space you'll have between the seal and the special ss bracket. If you go to Lowe's, tile department, tools and supplies, you'll see bags of plastic wedge spacers used in tileing. They are perfect for this application. Available in different thicknesses, about 3/4 x 1 1/8. Bag of 100 is about 4 bucks. I used the 1/8" thick wedges.
The spacers are used to push the seal/glass assembly to the top of the opening and towards the back. I inserted one spacer in the front window post to push the assy to the back corner, then started at the front bottom. Using the flat nose pliers, pull the inside of the seal up tight. The inside flange of the seal should be level with the outside. Doing that pulls the outside edge of the seal down against the body and the glass. While you're doing this, make sure the glass is pushed outwards against the body. When you have the seal pulled up tight, insert a wedge and force it in under the seal. If it's tight enough, it should keep the seal from creeping back out. keep moving down about an inch or so repeating the process until you're as far back as you can go. There should be a solid row of spacers, minimizing the gaps between. Use the pliers to pull in the seal along the top as well as you go along. When I got to the back half, I had to start stacking the wedges to keep things tight. Push the wedges all the way i, and they won't interfere with the garnish rail. After the bottom is done, do the same on the front verticle edge.
I had no puckering at the large back corner, but there is no place for wedges, so I pulled the seal tight and added two drops of gel super glue on the inside/glass, and on the outside body as well.
The small corners are going to pucker on the inside only, and no place for wedges there either, so I used snips to cut a neat wedge out of the seal, and super glued those corners flat as well after pulling in place with the pliers. make sure the seal is tight in the outside corners against the body and glass while you glue!
A summary......use wedges to keep the seal tight all the way around, and super glue the small corners if necessary..
FINI!! pics to follow.

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Fixed rear side window install