Steering wheel restoration

[Limey57]

My Ranchero has got a white "Moon" steering wheel, but I was always on the look out for an original wheel.  Postal charges from the US to the UK put me off looking on US EBay, then the other day I found one over here for around $30, posted (first picture).  It needs some work and I wondered if anyone else had restored one?  2/3 of the centre section is broken away on the rear (see second picture).  Anyone ever built up a damaged wheel, if so what did you use?  Also, what's the best primer to use before painting it?

The third picture is a close up of the horn, was this originally from a power steering equipped car?

Thanks

[djfordmanjack]

Gary, there are several kits available to repair steering wheels including Epoxy glue filler and putty aso. I'd try simple methods like building up the basic shape from plywood or plasic sheet, glueing it to the steering wheel hub and then coating it with resin and grp mat, then go to Bondo and filler, sanding and paint the whole thing. you could also cut the bakelite center section off, have a replacement turned on a lathe ( from plastic or aluminium) make the cutouts for the spokes and glue it to the hub with resin.
That horn button and ring still looks very nice. always worth the efforts to restore an original.
somebody obviously used a hammer to 'pull' this wheel.....

[gasman826]

I'm on my fourth one.  I used a kit from Eastwood.  It is an epoxy (2 part 50/50 mix).  Very thick so it doesn't sag with plenty of 'pot life' (slow dry time).  All the wheels so far have had cracks but some had chunks missing but not as bad as yours.  The stuff doesn't shrink but should cure for a couple days.  Sands like plastic body filler.  I've done both early wheels that are made of bakelite and a newer one made of plastic.  As far as painting, same as anything else.  SEM makes a rattle can primer for plastic and vinyl.  Several coats of your favorite rattle can enamel color.  A little wet sanding and several coats of rattle can clear.  I only have a picture of the plastic one and I haven't driven that one yet.  I did two '57 wheels.  One has been on the Raunch Wagon all summer with lots of drive time and setting in the sun.  No issues yet.  I'm currently working on a '64 Galaxie wheel.

[suede57ford]

The are several tricks to restoring steering wheels or other plastic items so they do not crack again or the repair ghosts(can see the repair later). Also, the metal ring in the wheel expands a different rate than the steering wheel plastic( I realize its not actually plastic on a '57 wheel, but the process and products are the same).

I am an industry professional at repairing plastics and difficult to repair materials, so many of the techniques can be used for other applications.

Cut up fibers from fiberglass mat and mix with the epoxy repair liquid.  Wet the repair area first with the adhesive and then press the fibers/epoxy mix into the cracks.    The fibers go a long ways to making the repair last.   An epoxy or filler without the fibers may get hairline cracks in the future.

Only use epoxy products(many two-parts are urethane which can bubble later) for the filler.   My personal favorite is 3M 8115 panel bond adhesive(PBA).   It is wets-out nice, can be mixed the fiberglass fibers fairly well.  I do  a wet coat with PBA, then immediately fill as well as you can with the fiber/PBA mix, then let dry overnight.  Its going to be rough in the area with fibers initially.  When the PBA is fully dry, sand with 80 grit, then add additional coats of PBA as a filler until the wheel is built up.  No need to start stacking dissimilar products, except may be a little glaze for pinholes near the end before priming.

The next most important step is the "V"ing out, or grinding the crack out in a "V" shape, steps.   You must "V" out all the way to the bottom of the crack or it may ghost or crack later.  This often means going to the metal core and building back up.  Also, this is very important for the "V".  You must take it one step further then a "V" and remove the sharp edges at the top edges of the "V" with 80 grit to remove the sharp corners.   The sharp edges or corner may "ghost" back through the repair where the sharp edges are buried.  Also smoothing the sharp edges helps create a better feather-edge.

The primer you use is important too.  I use a high quality urethane catalyzed primer, usually in a black color or similar to what color the wheel will be.  I have a personal favorite for primer that is a high build color primer that has a flex technology that works well in.   I finish in a minimum of 180 grit before priming this reduces chances of shrinking and gets a good scratch/inch for adhesion.  I normally sand the first application of primer with 180 and you can use a light amount of polyester glaze for pinholes or final shaping. I make sure all defects are feathered out or filled before a final coat of the urethane primer.

To prep for paint finish with 320(solid colors) or 400(metallic)  and top coat with the same urethane type paint you would use the outside of the car.  Urethane paints with hardeners will cure hard and lock up, so they are very durable.   If you need the finish to be a little flatter(lower gloss) add some flattener(20-35%) to the paint.

I've made '57 Ford and T-Bird wheels a slightly smaller diameter by finding a mid sixty's(dodge or galaxy) 16" steering wheels, cutting the spokes and welding a '57 center(actually I always use '59 type steering wheels and '59 boxes on '57's when possible).  I have converted a wood lathe with a splined hub from an old steering shaft to help make sure the ring in perfectly centered when welding the ring to a 57-59 hub spokes.    I then build up the wheel as outlined above.

[Limey57]

Thanks everyone!  Had a good look at it today and there's only one small crack in the rim, the main issue is the centre where 2/3 are missing.  What I might do is carefully remove the good remaining 1/3 and take a mould from it, then cast up two more pieces using epoxy resin and bond them all into place before repainting.

[djfordmanjack]

sounds like a great plan, would be good to see the efforts.
Gary, you happen to know a guy called Wesley Wall in Birmingham ?

[djfordmanjack]

Did you see how the French Customizer built the steering wheel for his Vedette V8 Ford?
scroll down to see his efforts in taking patterns
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ford-vedette-53-kustom-from-france.522436/page-2

[Limey57]

Gary, you happen to know a guy called Wesley Wall in Birmingham ?

No, that's not far away from me, is he a 57 Ford owner?  I know a guy selling a good used hood for a 57 for £100 and he just can't sell it!

[djfordmanjack]

Gary, he WAS a former 57 owner. Another friend of mine from Forthampton ( 50 miles south of Birm.) has been visiting me with A car just this weekend, If you can only imagine what I am saying. I was fearing that I crossed your plans somewhat. But it's all good now that I know that you didn't know....