Daily Driver Raunch Wagon

[RICH MUISE]

Looking great Gary. In retrospect, I wish I had done the foil covered insulation up as high as you did. Try a heat gun on that  self stick stuff, seems to add a ton of adhesion power. That may vary by brand though, and a coat of Bulldog adhesion promoter would help as well. On the underside of my car, I had done the por-15 over phosphate treated bare metal. I then hit it with the adhesion promoter before I sprayed 2 or 3 coats of paintable water based undercoating. After 3 years, I haven't seen anywhere on the underside where the undercoating is coming off, and you know how hard it is to get anything to stick to por-15.

[gasman826]

Dash in.

[gasman826]

AC plumbed.  30 inches vacuum.

The top on the engine hooked up and fluids topped.

[RICH MUISE]

looking great. Other than carpet and seats, what's left before you can start bug collecting?

[gasman826]

bugs...it's still 25 degrees here.  The pick list still seems too long.

[gasman826]

rollin' again!!

[Tom S]

rollin' again!!

  Lookin' good!

[Jeff Norwell]

Awesome Gary!!!!!!!!!!

[RICH MUISE]

That ride must have felt great! Congrats.
"Club Clayton"?

[djfordmanjack]

yeah !!!

loving the 'driver quality' paint scheme.

As Jay usually says, there needs to be a 'few' spots of primer on every car....

[hiball3985]

Great! burn up some hiway

[gasman826]

Club Clayton...Clayton Mob speak for the Clayton Tavern...a small village, dive bar where I spent way too much time.  It is a ghost now...some good times!

[gasman826]

The old saying 'Ain't broke, don't fix it'.  Brakes and steering were working just fine.  Since the engine was out and freshened, now was the time to replace the PS pump and hydraulic booster.  Besides they both were OEMs with nearly 120k miles on them.  The reman'ed pump barely lasted 100 miles before complete failure...no power steering or brakes.  Now the entire systems is polluted with burnt oil and metal shavings.  So PS components are stripped from the car and being washed in the parts cleaner.  I'm tossing the booster and going to manual brakes.  Just another example of replacement parts quality.

[RICH MUISE]

Yikes...hope I don't have that problem with the remanufactured pump I just put on my replacement engine...........like you reasoned, it was a good time to replace it.

[gasman826]

NAPA gave me a new pump with no issues.   Bled the PS system.  Pump is quiet...a good sign.  I have never went from power brakes to manual brakes.  I read the entire Wilwood site and found all kinds of formulas for this and that but no chart or recommendations.  Their manual, dual master cylinders come in three piston bore sizes...7/8, 15/16 and 1".  7/8" creates the most pressure with the least leg effort but also moves the least amount of fluid.  The 1" moves the most fluid but leg effort will be higher.  Pedal ratio is critical to get the least leg effort but must cycle the piston stop to stop...and do it in 1.1" of travel.  The bottom line is to buy master cylinders until you get acceptable brake performance.  I started with a 7/8" piston MC...didn't move enough fluid so the pedal was right to the floor.  Oh, you do need external residual check valves!  So...tossed the 7/8" MC for a 15/16" MC.  Firm pedal at about half stroke but more leg effort than I'm use to.  It is working now but all my other cars have some form of power brake and I'm not going to be satisfied until the leg effort is similar in all vehicles.