AOD or T5

[drof75]

Did I forget anything? Any input for cost/source would be great.

AOD      
Part Desc.                                                   Cost           Source
Adapter                                                   $850           http://www.transmissionadapters.com/index.htm
Transmission w/torque conv. (rebuilt)            $1,200        http://www.ebay.com/usr/transdepot-727-868-9462
Ford AOD Stainless Steel Kickdown Cable Kit   $76            http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/KD-2AODHT/10002/-1
Drive Shaft to length                                   ??             Open
                                                              $2,126

T5      
Part Desc.                                     Cost     Source
Adapter                                        $199       http://www.ford-y-block.com
Transmission (rebuilt)                      $1,000     Ebay
Bell Housing                                   $300       Ford 1954-62 passenger car stick bellhousing
Clutch & Brake Pedal Assy                $200       Open
STEEL BILLET FLYWHEELS                $325       http://www.ford-y-block.com
11" disc, new, for T-5                     $75         http://www.ford-y-block.com
Diaphragm Pressure plate - 11 inch    $105       http://www.ford-y-block.com
Throw out Bearing                          $75        http://www.ford-y-block.com
Clutch Hydraulic Assembly                $160      http://www.jegs.com
Driveshaft must lengthened 3"          ??          Open
Driveshaft Yoke Fits 28-spline           $57        http://www.jegs.com
                                                  $2,496   

[gasman826]

Continential/Crown Vic/Grand Marquis drive shaft will fit if you use the AOD w/long tail shaft and long yoke on the rear end.  I just bought an aluminum one from a police package donor for $80.  I built an AOD w/long tail with 4R70W upgrade parts, Kevlar frictions, Kevlar band, LenTech valve body, and B&M convertor for about $950.  I cannibalized a '64 Galaxie for power steering, better gear box, and steering column that has three drive positions for D-2-1.  AOD has the start safety/backup light switch in it.  The LenTech valve body not only fixes all AOD problems but also tunes it for a little more aggressive street use, provides manual and automatic shifting, and a switch for lock out over-drive.

Another thing you need to add to the list is rear end work.  The gear ratio will have to be changed.  I'm going all out and starting with a pickup housing (strongest and easiest/cheapest to find), narrowing it, adding SVO/Explorer disc brakes, 31 splined axles, and I already have a fresh pig with 4.11, shimmed pinion, Daytona support, and Detroit Locker.

[djfordmanjack]

Gary, which Lentech valve body did you use!?
what do you mean by a switch for lockout OD ?

[drof75]

What he means is that it will prevent OD from kicking in going down the track if you let up a little

[gasman826]

I got the AOD Street Terminator with custom calibration for the wide gear set:
00-AOD-STT2L---- VALVEBODY, AOD STREET TERMINATOR, CALIBRATION 2 (For Lockup)

This design should keep pressures up for reduced clutch and band slippage as well as offering manual shifting up and down or automatic shifting for cruising.  They have patented modifications to the valve body that include a solenoid hooked to a dash mounted switch to disable overdrive.  One can manually shift the first three gears via the column and overdrive with the switch.  In automatic shift mode and the overdrive switch activated, shifts just like from the factory (but a little firmer).  Clear as mud, right.  I've read the web site several times and several car magazine articles.  Looking forward to the first outing!!!

[djfordmanjack]

Thank you for the explanation, I see you're setting it up for street and performance rather. so by lock out you mean disabling the OD to keep the engine at higher rpms for more power.

I would be interested in exactly the opposite which means extending or manually shifting the OD range and especially the lockup. I mean the mechanical lockup that disables the converter.
When I am out on the road I keep my foot off the gas as much as possible. I love torquy engines and tall gearing. It's just me. I love to gently touch the pedal in high gear and not having to downshift in manual cars. I manage to never stall the engine.
I would love to have a switch that activates converter lockup and even OD in 2nd  and 3rd gear, if that's mechanically possible at all.
If that sounds stupid. I am driving a 4spd Auto 1966 Mercedes and it has a hydraulic clutch ( no converter). I like how it has no converter slip, as this increases fuel economy ( the way I drive). Just thinking out loud on the AOD and wondering if it's possible or has been done before.

[drof75]

djfordmanjack here is exactly what you want http://www.gearvendors.com
They have a setup for a C4 or C6, I didn't one for an AOD

[gasman826]

The AOD is a 4 speed automatic so splitting 1st, 2nd, and/or 3rd with the overdrive circuit is not likely.  Some other transmissions are 3 speed automatic with the overdrive being the lock up torque converter.  The overdrive is the elimination of the torque converter slippage by a clutch in the converter.  These lockup torque converter clutches are light duty and too fragile to survive the load if used in 1st or 2nd gears.  The AOD is quite unique in that there is no lockup clutch in the converter but rather has two input shafts.  One shaft is more traditionally turned by the stator and experiences 'slippage'.  The other shaft goes through the stator and hooks directly to the converters hub (direct connection to the crankshaft:  no slippage).  When the governor calls for overdrive, the overdrive band is applied and there is a direct connection from the crankshaft to the drive shaft...4th gear.

https://www.google.com/search?q=AOD+input+shaft+picture&tbm=isch&imgil=hA5zHsubY3he8M%253A%253B2DtYUKGPXjl-3M%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.cartechbooks.com%25252Ftechtips%25252Fford-aod-and-4r70w-transmission-history-and-evolution%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=hA5zHsubY3he8M%253A%252C2DtYUKGPXjl-3M%252C_&usg=__3gZzUjwlY5u-UNs6LkGAd2g4GTI%3D&biw=1366&bih=651&ved=0ahUKEwiGmLyF2b3SAhUs7oMKHX-GBWsQyjcINQ&ei=byS7WMakAazcjwT_jJbYBg#imgrc=hA5zHsubY3he8M:

[djfordmanjack]

Thank you guys.
Gary, I hear from that if we manipulate the governor or at least the signal ist sends ( hydraulic wise) for the OD clutch we could change the point of OD setting in and therfore converter lockup.
I do have a full book on the AOD (the Haynes manual) and I see I will have to study it more before getting any deeper.
Thanx for the link. I had heard about the weak point of an AOD being the dual (hollow main) intput shafts, now I see what they mean by that.
@drof 75: I know about the gear vendor drives and nearly purchased one with the DelRio when it had the C6 in it. They are terriffic OD boxes and, if properly lubed seem to last forever on C6s. It's another huge and heavy junk of iron though, along with the C6 tank of an Auto transmission. Since I am not going to have any engines exceeding 200hp, I want to go back to the C4 and/or AOD.
Wanting to keep the drivetrain as light, simple and smooth as possible.
This is because of a totally different situation here in Europe. We have to pay taxes and insurance hp related and this will exceed $1000 a year with a 200hp+ engine.
Gas is expensive here, and I drive my cars daily, so good mpg is very important for me. I do drive my cars long distance. We have lots of highways with 75mph and in neigbor country Germany there are many non speed limit Autobahns. I am frequently going 90+ or a 100 straight for hours.
My country is very diverse in landscape, ranging from totally flat to steepest mountain roads within 200 miles. That's why it would be great to manually shift or being able to adjust the OD set in point.

[gasman826]

I wasn't focused on weight savings but you got me thinking about it.  Disc brakes are usually considered lighter than drums, so I have disc all the way around.  Aluminum drive shaft is slightly lighter (more of a reduction in rotating resistance).  The AOD is about 70 pounds lighter than the FOM.  Aluminum radiator cools better and lighter too (cheaper too).  The 351w starts off lighter than a Y-Block but subtract the headers, aluminum timing chain cover, aluminum water pump, aluminum heads, aluminum intake and the aluminum wheels for quite a reduction.  But, I did add power steering and AC.

I chose the AOD in part because it shifts based of mechanical inputs (TV cable and governor).  The mechanical balance is very fragile so a change improvement in one direction will have a less desirable side effect.  In studying the AOD, I read a lot about its updated cousin the AODE and 4R70.  These are both 'computer' controlled.  To do what you want, I'd call on the electronics for both engine and transmission management.  There are aftermarket controllers for both AODE and 4R70.  Both aftermarket engine and transmission controllers can have multiple programs loaded into them for different driving conditions.

[djfordmanjack]

the weight savings you mentioned might easily add up to a 150 or even close to 200 pds. now, that is really something if you are performance oriented. and you get most part of it off the front axle, which is a good thing in 57s.
Usually I prefer to stay all mechanical in my cars, but that is not to say they I wouldn't try out an electronic shift box in an AODE if it really has some benifits.
Most probably I'll be well off with a bone stock and reconditioned AOD for my car and I will have to find out about that. I have 2 1987ish AODs ( 5.0 Mustang), which both of them should be working. I also purchased a speed gems adapter to put it behind a Y block. So I will first try to use it in stock form and see how it works for me before I go into the details of shifting charcteristics. Still very interesting to learn about other's opinion and what you are doing to make it work for you. I learned that there is a huge array of aftermarket stuff for the AOD. the LenTech stuff seems to be well designed and proven.
I also like the direct mechanical input with the TV cable. Maybe a little delicate to adjust in the beginning, but should be nice in use as you kind of control the transmission with the gas pedal.

[59meteor]

Personally, if given the choice between an AOD, and a T5, I would choose the T5, without hesitation. The T5 is much lighter than a AOD, and should offer a huge differance in performance, and most importantly, FUN! I have had several T5s, albeit not in a car as heavy as a 57 Ford, but for a mildish street type 57, it should be well up to the task. I had T5s in a couple of 3300 lb Ford Fairmonts, with warmed over 302s. Before, the one Fairmont had a C4 with a C4 with a 2500 rpm B&M torque convertor. It would run high 13s (best of 13.72ET), and with 3.55 gears, revved almost 3000 RPM on the freeway. The swap to the T5, with no other changes ran a best of 12.80ET, and in 5th gear, dropped the freeway RPM down to 2200. Obviously that helped fuel economy considerably. Before I decided to go with a 428CJ and Toploader 4 speed in my 59, I had already collected a 5.0 HO engine and T5 to use in the car, and I am sure it would have been fine, provided I didn`t feed it a steady diet of high RPM drag strip duty, on slicks.

[djfordmanjack]

59 Meteor, I see your point with the T5 in performance and on open winding country roads, but it sure is no fun to clutch and shift a 5spd in daily morning downtown traffic jam.

[59meteor]

59 Meteor, I see your point with the T5 in performance and on open winding country roads, but it sure is no fun to clutch and shift a 5spd in daily morning downtown traffic jam.

True, but really, how many people are actually using their 60 year old classic vehicles for the daily rush hour commute downtown? Personally, I do drive  a manual transmission 2010 Ford Ranger PU to work every work day, on my 1 hour each way commute to Downtown Vancouver, yes, in bumper to bumper gridlock, it can be a bit of a pain, but overall, I don`t mind. But I guess I am not in the majority, all 5 of my vehicles are manual transmission, although my wifes 2009 Corolla is an automatic.

[djfordmanjack]

I am a fan of std transmissions as well and do love the sporty feeling when using them on countryroads.
You're right.Most people probably won't drive their old cars downtown, but I do. all the time. I have to take my son to school, getting grocery and business stuff and everything else. I haven't owned a car younger than 1967 in 22 years. Currently out of 4 drivers there are 2 Auto and 2 std. wouldn't want to miss either, but I like driving the Auto cars much better than the std.
I am sure that the T5 is a great transmission, but my vote goes for the AOD