Making a Custom into a driver

[RICH MUISE]

I'm really surprised about your issues with the GM connectors. My Express kit is totally Ford, Ford coloring, Ford everything. That's one reason I've been pushing Ron Francis' stuff so much. I would have been upset if they HADN"T asked what column I was using. I had to look at all my column connectors, and, in some cases, go to their FORD connector page and tell them which connectors matched up. Both my ignition switch (with 20 or so wires), and my multi-function switch were all pre-wired Ford connectors. hmmmm.??
I'm also confused as to why you had to label the wires....they should have all been numbered and printed with where they went and where they came from. The color coding is a back-up precaution. Just wondering.......is your kit actually an Express kit? Maybe a lower model that doesn't offer what the express kit does?

I am using their headlight switch, but it is a much closer match to my modified everything dash and other knobs than the OEM would have been.
I'm vaguely remembering the switch controls the opposite polarity from what I needed, but don't remember details, and I am using a later model dome light.

[terry_208]

I labeled the wires from the column so I could match them to the RF Express kit's provided male/female connector.  I had to change the ends on the RF wires as the terminals were factory attached and fit into an included connector that match to a couple prewired aftermarket columns.  The wires provided in my RF kit are color coded and printed as to where they supply power.  All the wires on the column had male bullet connectors that plugged in individually.  I am happy to change to the "plug and play" multi connectors for the turn signals.   

The issues I am having are minor and just require a little extra effort and in my case much thought. 
 
I noticed it was a very slow day on the website so thought a comment was in order.

[RICH MUISE]

Yeah, our age makes otherwise enjoyable challenges a real chore sometimes, lol. I hate it when my wife has to carry the heavy stuff in from grocery shopping.
You've probably already noticed the difference in the RF quality wires..........doesn't strip as easy as the made in China stuff.
Keep us updated.
Where did you decide to put the fuse panel?

[gasman826]

I answered all the RF questions.  RF offered a steering column connection for the column I was using.  The column plugged in and worked great.  But the GM compatible reared it's ugly head.  The furnished headlight switch is GM or GM compatible.  It was NOT even close to a FOMOCO switch.  No problem, just unpin the socket and plug the RF terminals into my FOMOCO socket and plug into my switch.  NO, NO, NO...the RF terminals are GM style and will not plug into my FOMOCO socket.  So I just took the wire cutters to the RF headlight circuit and snipped it right off.  With my handy dandy FOMOCO compatible terminal kit, I changed all the terminals to FOMOCO compatible terminals, repinned the FOMOCO headlight socket and plugged it in.  It worked fine EXCEPT the dome light feature.  The RF dome light feature off the headlight switch is again wired GM compatible.  The courtesy/dome lights work fine off the door jam switches but I couldn't get them to work through the RF headlight circuit.

[terry_208]

I'm planning to put the fuse panel against the left air duct sheet metal swinging down for access as the Contour's did.  That'll be just left of center.  I say planning bc the dash is out of the car to facilitate the process. 

Sometime back, I spoke with a RF tech and he warned me that most of the problems they see, the customer had spliced the og harness into the RF unit.  I am planning to splice parts of my og harness into the RF unit.  It'll take some figuring to keep things Straight.  I will have more questions, ie idiot lights vs guages and Dura Spark vs coil.

[terry_208]

So I just took the wire cutters to the RF headlight circuit and snipped it right off.  With my handy dandy FOMOCO compatible terminal kit, I changed all the terminals to FOMOCO compatible terminals, repinned the FOMOCO headlight socket and plugged it in.  It worked fine EXCEPT the dome light feature.  The RF dome light feature off the headlight switch is again wired GM compatible.  The courtesy/dome lights work fine off the door jam switches but I couldn't get them to work through the RF headlight circuit.

The way I read the RF info sheet the dome light runs a wire, continuously hot and another for the ground.  When the GM switch is turned on the ground is completed, turning on the light.  I thought simply running a hot wire from the panel to a toggle switch would work.  I did run two wires, a red and a white, to the dome light, just in case a second wire was needed.

[terry_208]

And now the questions begin.

The top portion of the picture is of the og Ford light switch.  I labeled the terminals as they are on the switch so they are more visible. 

The bottom shows the diagram for GM connecter plug provided on the RF harness.  Can anyone tell which connectors to connect which wires to which terminal on the light switch so everything works?

[terry_208]

Here is what I've determined:  "B" is the "hot" or feed; "D" is hot all the time; "R" is hot with park lights  or
headlights on (could this be for the park and tail lights?); "H" and "I" are both hot in the headlight position (one must be Headlights but which one and what's the other?).  You can see I don't know much about wiring!

[terry_208]

Here's another one.  This time the dimmer switch.  On the left is the RF provided plug for the dimmer.  On the right is a new dimmer switch and pigtail.  on the RF connecter, the blue wire is printed Dimmer, the other two the red and the green(?) are each marked headlight. All three of the wires run directly to the fuse panel. 

Now about the Ford part:  the right wire seems to provide the power to both of the other terminals.  I believe, perhaps wrongly, the terminal on the left with two wires is for the high beam.  and the one in the middle for dimmed headlights.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Ford Blue blood]

The stock Ford switch has two terminals for the "park" lights.  The terminal for "park" is for the front parking lights.  They turn on when in the park position and turn off when the headlights are turned on.  The second terminal is for the rear tail/park lights.  They are on when ever the switch is any position other then off.

B = + 12V in.
P = Front park
R = Rear tail/park
H = Headlight feed
I = dash dim and dome feed when turned all the way CW
The fuse on the rear of the switch is for the dome light feed through the door jam switches.  This fuse feeds the rheostat that dims the dash lights.

[terry_208]

I'll proceed with that info.  Thanks for the info.  Now that you've put the info out there, I can see the references.

[terry_208]

This attachment is a replication of the GM terminal provided with the Ron Francis kit.

Here's what I found out from the RF tech:

Beginning with the gray terminal and going counterclockwise.

Gray:   is the dome or courtesy light ground.  GM uses a fulltime hot to the light and is grounded through the
           switch
Red:    this is the hot wire for the lights and is attached to the "B" post on the Ford light switch
Blue:   goes to the dimmer switch.  The tech said to run a "jumper" to the dimmer
Tan:    parking light feed - connect to the "P" terminal on the Ford switch
Red:    this is used on the GM switch to power the taillights - Not necessary on the Ford switch
Tan:    taillight feed - connect to the "R" terminal on the Ford switch
White:  Dash lights - I don't know where it connects. It needs to run through a rheostat to dim the lights.
       
The one thing I noticed with the RF express kit is that there are no included light sockets.