Mustang hydroboost revisited

[SUPERQ]

Hello I am new to posting on this site, although I have been a member for some time, we bought a 57 Custom
and several parts from here.
I have read all the posts on installing a Mustang hydro boost on a 57 custom, and want to thank all of you that posted
comments on "How to" do the install.
I also had the same issues with the pedal rod being too short, I cut the mustang rod at the end of the
round part and used a jointing nut and a brake pedal rod from an early Falcon shorted to the size needed to reach the pedal
the nut was drilled and welded to the hydro boost as there is no room to tread it.
all of this came out very strong, now my concern is that there is only 1- 1/16" travel before the nut hits
the housing on the hydro boost, is that enough travel to make the brakes work
Felix 

[RICH MUISE]

If you're the one who emailed me a few weeks ago, I tried to respond but kept getting a failure message.
What you're looking at for travel is exactly why I welded my extentsion. I didn't have a go-to reference at the time to check the travel length, but I'll see if I can do that now and I'll get back to you.

[RICH MUISE]

Started the car and had my wife push on the pedal as hard as she could..........Got less than 3/4" rod travel, so you should be good.

[SUPERQ]

Rich thank you for looking into the rod travel issue
Felix

[gasman826]

I cut threads on mine and use a heim joint.  Pedal hits the floor before heim joint interferes.

[SUPERQ]

Gasman826, I know you have a hydro boost out of a full-size car how long is the rod,
it must be fairly long to reach the 57 pedal, on the Mustang unit is so short
that there is no room to tread it as there is no place to hold it.
looking at the rods from Tallon Hydraulics it appears as the rod may interfere
with the travel also

[gasman826]

I have a '74 Lincoln booster on the Custom and '97 Mustang GT booster on the Raunch Wagon.  Sorry...no pictures.  The Mustang GT booster needed the adapter plate removed.  I replaced it with a flat plate with holes drilled to match the firewall.  The plate has the lower two holes tapped with studs.  PIC isn't very helpful...see if I can get better.

[SUPERQ]

I thought of removing the stock Mustang plate and go with a flat plate as you did, but left the factory plate
incase I needed clearance for the Cobra Le Mans FE valve covers that I have on the engine.
I have a pedal assembly of the car on the bench and I am trying mocking everything up before installing on the car.
This past weekend I attended the 26 annual winter extravaganza swap meet at the Sumter County Fairgrounds,
one vendor Auto City Classics had an adapter to install a vacuum booster on a tri five Chevy, I had bought all
the glass for my Custom from them  and he sold me the adapter for $10.00, well what do you know it fitted the firewall
pattern and it fitted the Mustang Hydro boost and I mean bolt in no modifications .
it moves the booster 1.25 away from the fire wall ,another option  that I now have     

[gasman826]

I don't think clearance is an issue.  I'm sure someone in the club has this combo and will chime in.  The Custom has a 460 based engine with a hydraulic booster with no clearance issue (PIC).  I tried to get pictures of my adapter plate and under dash setup.  I remember cutting off the end of the booster's activation rod but I don't remember adding material or just run a die down what was left of the rod.

[RICH MUISE]

Clearance shouldn't be an issue with the FE's. My 4.6DOHC is in the neighborhood of 6" wider than a 460.
BTW, Be careful with that canister on the booster.........it's under high presure.

[SUPERQ]

Gasman your under dash picture shows a longer rod than the 2001 Mustang unit,
I am going to order a rod from Tallon and remove some metal from the hex nut at
the rods round end to maybe get more clearance and travel in case I ever have
a leak on one circuit of the brake system, I don't think 1 inch travel is enough

[RICH MUISE]

Hey Gary........have you ever rebuilt one of these Mustang hydroboosts? I discovered mine has a new leak, not sure if I want to rebuild or order a rebuilt hydroboost. Of course ours are modified, so when buying a rebuilt we have to eat the core charge as ours have been modified.

Also, I watched a you tube video where a guy was modifying a unit to fit into another application. What he did to facilitate the threading on the too-short connecting rod was to hand grind two flats on the rod (at the booster end). He was then able to use an open end wrench to keep the rod from turning as he threaded it. For threading, he used a hex shaped die in an impact wrench with a deep socket. He struggled to get it started, but eventually got it done.

[gasman826]

Never rebuilt one.  I just installed a reman'd and it was over $350.00.  Bone yard is much cheaper.  I had one start leaking on my Suburban and it was over $400.

As far as the thread length, I bolted mine the firewall to get a custom measurement.  I cut the OEM end off and welded threads on to match a heims joint.  I had about 1/2" of adjustment.  I just used my fingers to turn the shaft to tune the adjustment and tighten a jam nut to lock it down.  I just switched to manual Wilwood master and had to do the same thing.

I'm now going back to vacuum due to reman'd pump quality, cost and weight of hydraulic booster, extra load on belt.

[RICH MUISE]

I'm going to pull mine back out and take it apart to see how it looks. A complete rubber and star washer kit is like 40. plus ship. Rebuilt Cardone units are 180ish incl core. They seem to be the only ones rebuilding the Ford units. I did find a 400. Ford Motorsports one.
Thanks for the reply.