Heater core questions

[dungbeetle07]

57 Fairlane w/272.  I returned the heat control system back to original with the correct vacuum switch and vacuum operated control valve. Had to replace my "new" heater control valve after it started leaking. It's now leaking again so I'm thinking of replacing the whole core and move the control valve to the eng compartment, tired of antifreeze getting on the carpet. Has anyone swapped cores with something else? If so what type of core did you use? Any other advice or recommendations would be appreciated.

[RICH MUISE]

I wished the A/C half of my Vintage air system worked half as good as the heater. I do believe I've seen a heat only unit in the Vintage Air catalog.

[Ford Blue blood]

A thing that came to light a few years ago was grounding the core.  Seams electrolysis corrosion will eat them.  Easy to do, just put a wire under the hose just after the clamp and then double clamp and tie it to ground.  Don't know if it is an urban myth or true but I have it on all my early stuff and have no heater core issues.

[dungbeetle07]

I'll keep the grounding thing in mind when I put it back together, thanks. I haven't heard that before.

[KULTULZ]

Don't know if it is an urban myth or true but I have it on all my early stuff and have no heater core issues.

It's true and correct.

Another trick is to put a flow restrictor in the pressure line to slow down coolant pressure/flow. FORD did this on POLICE and late HP.

[dungbeetle07]

What would a flow restrictor look like... How would you accomplish that?

[KULTULZ]

Photos Attached-

Is the replacement heater control valve actually leaking and is it a repro?

[thomasso]

Just a note of interest.  I have a number of these valves and some Mercury also ( same, but a longer bracket),Plus some control valves.  They all appear to be of the same manufacturer regardless of which box they came in, be it Ford, Dole, ,Robertshaw. Perfection, and I think others.  Most boxes are disintergrated and there are no manufacturers marks on any valves.  Also I've found that it is better to use silicone instead of the rubber gasket which can deteroiate to mount to heater core.

[KULTULZ]

57 Fairlane w/272. 

I returned the heat control system back to original with the correct vacuum switch and vacuum operated control valve. Had to replace my "new" heater control valve after it started leaking.

It's now leaking again so I'm thinking of replacing the whole core and move the control valve to the eng compartment, tired of antifreeze getting on the carpet. Has anyone swapped cores with something else? If so what type of core did you use? Any other advice or recommendations would be appreciated.

You are describing the 57/58 FRESH AIR HEATER, correct (Ill below)?

Is it the actual HTR CONTROL VALVE (18495) leaking (bad diaphragm) or where it attaches to the HEATER CORE (18476) with rubber seal? I have read where repros are defective. Just trying to confirm.

If determined to defaet the OEM design, maybe considering taking to COMPETENT radiator shop and see if new inlet tube can be fitted entirely eliminating the OEM valve and put a control valve hidden in the inlet heater hose?

[KULTULZ]

Just a note of interest.  I have a number of these valves and some Mercury also ( same, but a longer bracket),Plus some control valves.  They all appear to be of the same manufacturer regardless of which box they came in, be it Ford, Dole, ,Robertshaw. Perfection, and I think others.  Most boxes are disintergrated and there are no manufacturers marks on any valves.

Also I've found that it is better to use silicone instead of the rubber gasket which can deteroiate to mount to heater core.

You have an actual FORD NOS 18495 valve? If so, no identifying stamping nos.?

It would be hard to say who the original FORD vendor was but what you have (all suppliers) could be invaluable to owners/restorers.

[thomasso]

The DOLE control valves are marked.  So i'm assuming they were the manufacturer of all. None of the others are marked.  The original boxes are all the same except for logos and are of very poor quality, most have disintegrated over the years. I know that the later Ford ones were in corrugated boxes. i don't have any in Ford boxes.  None of the vacuum control valves have markings other than Pat. Pend. or date codes.  All are for sale.

[SkylinerRon]

You can have them recored. The stock 57 heater is great, the one in my car has never been apart.

I wouldn't restrict the water flow, there is no reason to.

Goodluck,

Ron.

[Ray]

Thomasso, you don't happen to have a factory air valve do you? I could use one for the Coral Sand car.

[thomasso]

Sorry Ray.  That would be B7A 18495 C.  Air conditioning was mighty scarce around here in the 50s,

[gasman826]

I followed this post with interest but never seen the problem.  This winter's Raunch Wagon upgrades include Vintage Air so I removed the heater to be surprised to see the heater core bulged very close to bursting.  My first impression was that it had frozen but I always run 60/40 coolant and the car is stored in a heated garage.  Then I remembered this post.  The pictures show the outer two tubes are bowed and nearly three times their original size.  About five years ago, I upgraded the wagon from dealer installed heater (which didn't work and the core was toast).  The core, regulator and valve were all new pieces when installed.  When the new stuff was installed, the wagon had the original 292 but two years ago was swapped to 351w.  During warm weather, I shut the water valve off.  But in early spring and fall, the water valve is open and I occassionally rev the motor past 5k.  Either I didn't pack the backing material in tightly enough or the Windsor puts out too much coolant flow/pressure.  The wagon does run a 16# radiator cap to raise the boiling point.