Will a 460 fit ????

[rob .h]

Just how hard is it to install a 429/460 , 4 speed. I was told to keep to the "FE" 352,390, 428 ." It's just too much work for a few more cubes" ??

[lalessi1]

Personally I would stay with the FE too. For me it is a matter of weight. My FE has 462 cubic inches and with aluminum heads and intake I believe it is 150 pounds lighter than a newer big block. The 429/460's do fit though with necessary mods being well documented.

[rob .h]

I take it , one can get an FE 390  stroker  kit , that will get me to over 460 CID ( you said you now have it at 462 ? ). If so , can you recommend a stroker  kit man. ?  Many thanks !

[lalessi1]

I have a 428 .030 over with a Scat 4.25 stroker kit. The kit I used has H beam rods, Mahle flat top pistons and was factory balanced. The same crank kit in a .030 over 390 will give you 445 cubic inches.

[Litshoot]

I would go with the 460. Better engine, better availability, and stock trim is 25 pounds more than a y block. I lost 3 pounds just porting a set of c9s. If your really serious about weight one company cuts 150 pounds between block prep and a cnc profile cleanup of the outside of the block. That is max effort and think am eliminator block.
As for strokee kits all stock blocks can go to 557 with sonic check and some playing some to 598.  You are limited to around 800hp reliably. Then some works got to be put in

[Ford Blue blood]

The 428 block is more difficult to come by, the 4.13 bore being "odd" compared to the common 352/361/390 FE blocks.  It (the 428) will allow more cubes along with the stroker kit.

[gasman826]

I've put a stock 460/C6 in a '57.  I used a '76 Lincoln as a donor.  The Lincoln left manifold would not clear the steering box.  Left CJ manifold will clear but this manifold is getting hard to find.  The Lincoln C6 is the best case but the C6 is a little too big for the '57 tunnel and the reinforcement ribs reduce the tunnel clearance.  The drive shaft and cross member will need attention.  The Crites stuff will fit but only with Crites stuff.  Buy it all or nothing.  The Crites headers will hang very low to the ground.  I used the Lincoln mounts but fabricated the attachment points (keeping the engine low and back as far as possible).
I later installed a 460/466 with Lakewood bell and TKO600.  The Milodon road race oil pan fits like a glove and helped with keeping the engine low and to the rear.  This engine had Ford Racing aluminum heads and Stealth intake (clearing the hood).  Custom fender well headers and rack & pinion power steering.
Later again, I installed a 460/557 with the same Lakewood/TKO600.  With 835HP, I focused on the biggest Griffin radiator, 19-1/2" Lincoln clutch fan and shroud to successfully keep it cool.

[gasman826]

IF you are thinking FE and 428, you should also consider the 427.

[Ford Blue blood]

The FE is most budget friendly, 427 being re-poped helps but pricey.  390 with the "right stuff" makes good HP but again pricey.  Unless you want to stay "classic" I would give serious consideration to the 5.0 Coyote.  They are very common being from F150s and Mustangs and wouldn't require much more work and money then the 460/C6 or FEs and are capable of much more HP and drive ability.

[RICH MUISE]

I assume the Coyote needs the full computer setup, like my 4.6dohc did.? If so, are conversion wiring harnesses available? I know they are for the older 5.0's, but the Coyote? Would it be different?
BTW, since we're talking options to consider, after 64k miles, I still think my 4.6/4R70W choice was the best one for me. Certainly not the performance of the Coyote, but for reliable cruising, the price difference makes the 4.6 a major factor. Are the 5.0's in F150s really a Coyote version?

[59meteor]

The FE is most budget friendly, 427 being re-poped helps but pricey.  390 with the "right stuff" makes good HP but again pricey.  Unless you want to stay "classic" I would give serious consideration to the 5.0 Coyote.  They are very common being from F150s and Mustangs and wouldn't require much more work and money then the 460/C6 or FEs and are capable of much more HP and drive ability.

Considering the FE is a direct bolt into a 57, with no cutting, or fabricating involved, curious how you would possibly think that a Coyote, with all that wiring and plumbing needed for running the EFI, , would be "not much more work and money" than a FE? What Coyotes use a front sump oil pan, what is involved in fitting all the factory serpentine belt system, not to mention the Coyote is huge, especially for the displacement. To me, the idea of having an engine the width of a 427 SOHC or Boss 429, but only having 302 cubes sounds like an awful lot of work for a small engine. Not to mention, after looking at the modern late Ford automatic transmissions, I would be surprised if one of those monsters would fit the stock transmission tunnel without surgery. I believe the automatic also requires yet another computer and wiring to function , and aren`t the Coyotes "drive by wire"?, so even more wiring. For a simple engine swap, pretty tough to beat a 302 or 351. If you find an older PU , car, or Econoline van, with a good running small block, very easy and economical swap, especially if you mainly want a cruiser. I have a FE 428 Cobra Jet and Toploader in my 59, all points in using Ford parts, headers are readily available, 351Cs, 390s, and 429/460s are also pretty simple swaps, although the 429/460 is pretty snug for clearance to the radiator.

[RICH MUISE]

With what you said, there is a lot to be said in favor of the 4.6dohc/4R70W.  Mechanically, it's just about a bolt-in with Mustang motor mounts, front sumps are available, one computer for engine and tranny, no cutting to firewall, tunnel, or suspension, and easy-to-do conversion harness available (just very tedious). Some mods are required for tranny cross-member (but what doesn't?). Cons are tons of plumbing and wiring. Good, cheap low miles donor cars are getting hard to find for the dohc version.
Pros are replacement parts available everywhere, 20+ mpg, 300 HP = plenty for a good mountain cruise.

Not trying to sway thinking towards new school vs old school, but for some it's the best way to go. You top mechanical guys are among the very few who will take their old-school builds on a long haul.
All of this really has nothing to do with the original post......we do get off on tangents, don't we!

[Ford Blue blood]

https://lsswap.parts/product-category/ford/coyote/

These "kits" offer a great opportunity for the Coyote swap.  They are no wider then the 4.6 engines and the same length.  Yes, they are drive by wire and they are "plug and play".

We can argue all day long about cost.  Building a 400HP FE or Windsor easily comes up to the cost of the kit for a Gen I Coyote IMHO. 

[59meteor]

I checked out that Mars website, pretty interesting, but hardly appears to be a "plug & play" swap for an old Ford car. It comes with a used junkyard Coyote from a truck or Mustang, and the wiring , exhaust manifolds, air cleaner etc, but all the engines shown show a rear sump oil pan, which will not fit in a Ford car that used a front sump, as the crossmember and steering are in the way, you are on your own for making motor mounts work, and although it has all the OE doner wiring harness, the end user still needs to find a place to install the maze of wiring, computer, the fuel system, the donor hydraulic clutch pedals and plumbing, see if the factory exhaust manifolds will fit the car, figure out if the serpentine belt system will fit the car and be suitable for the car, see if the engine will clear the original steering box, upper control arms, firewall, etc. If you want a later Coyote with under 75,000 miles, you are starting at $11,500, then an extra $2250 for an automatic transmission ($1000. for a manual), if you want power steering, another $900. for a PS pump setup, as Coyotes were only installed in vehicles with electric power steering, then you are still on your own to try to make everything fit the vehicle. If you want upgraded cams, thats a $3500. option, yet another 900 bucks if you want the Boss 302 intake, and you are still dealing with a used junkyard engine and transmission that you have no idea of it`s condition, plus they have a 6 month waiting list. Sounds like it wouldn`t be hard to have $20,000 tied up in this swap, not to mention whatever modifying, fabricating etc to (hopefullY) install it all. And hopefully the junkyard engine and transmission are good. Pretty hard to compare that to a SB Fordor FE that can be bolted in over a weekend , with little to no fabricating or wiring to do.
This may be an option for somebody that has lots of time, money, and skills, that is not looking at being able to drive his car in a reasonable amount of time, but not sure how many guys want to wait that long, hoping it will ever be drivable. My FE 428 CJ may not be as clean, emissions wise, and not get as good gas mileage, but it was a straight bolt in and cost a hell of a lot less $$$.

[rmk57]

 
   To do a 429-460 swap properly you will need to trim the rad support and move radiator forward an 1 1/2", that is with a fan clutch. On the rear you will have about 1/2" clearance to the firewall. That's about the only big drawback.

  On the plus side these engines are cheap and everywhere. Rebuild stroker kits are reasonable for a basic Scat/Eagle kit. Quite a good selection of new or used aluminum cylinder heads.