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Started by lslevin, 2020-07-21 11:43

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mustang6984

I LOVE the Sunliner!!! And a Continental Kit to boot! I have such envy!

Checked I am sure the vacuum line to be sure it isn't dried out and brittle? No cracks? And as stated rm could be a vapor lock. Annoying to say the least.
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

fdlrc

The issues I've had, whether in my Bronco, Mustang or 57, was the gasoline would boil in the carb when engine was hot, then shut off. Restarts were a pain, but only in the heat of summer for me. I even tried phenolic spacers. The issue is the gasolines today are so different than years past, they boil easier. Changing to a new or different brand of carb may not necessarily fix this issue, it's heat, heat, heat.

I went to a Fitech EFI unit, no more issues. 
Other- Original owner of 1974 Bronco

djfordmanjack

sweet !!! wow a lot of work wenit into that wgn ! clened firewall and all. very nice interior ! loving the red cloth/white vinyl combo !

I believe the carb has vaccuum on the wrong intermediate vaccuum port. I have on the other (pssgr side) full port vaccuum!

if the Sunliner has the original distributor.....that can cause all kinds of erratic timing wandering and even engine stalling.
check for:
- loose pin of dizzy drive gear.
- worn ball bearing of breaker base plate
- loose or broken centrifugal advance springs.

I have had all three of those issues in 2 different engines. the 57 Distributor is not that bad a design, but things can wear out and cause problems.
a loose breaker plate bearing can be fixed with some small springs, pulling the base plate to one side.

imho. that carb is too big. 1408 is a 650 cfm right ?
I am running a 1403 ( 500cfm) on my stock 302 in the 34 and it runs and starts so much better than with the 650.
I also just recently bought another 500cfm 1403 that I plan to use on my bored 312 Y.

djfordmanjack

and check the original spark coil resistor. these are known to become brittle, wire breaking or coming lose from the terminal ( loose rivets), causing excessive resistance.
That interior in the Sunliner looks to good to be true ! Tremendous amount of style ! :004:

lslevin

Thanks to all again for the kind words!!!  More importantly the advice is well received.  We will start breaking down the suggestions.  It does have a spacer plate but as noted heat is always an issue.  Fordman, you have given us much to think about.  I would like to clarify your comments about the vacuum being on the wrong port.  It is on the passenger side port.  Do I misunderstand what you are telling me?  Carb is a 1406, I think 600 cfm?  I agree it might be too big.  If we decide to try another carb, I am definitely going to go sub 600 cfm.  Yes, the sunliner is a very pretty car.  My wife, Lynn, just loves it.  We had to install a new water pump.  We also converted the generator to alternator.  Was not charging.  It is a factory AC car.  Unfortunately nothing is in very good condition so we removed the compressor.  What a hunk of iron!!!!  I will post picture tomorrow.  Also heater core is leaking so we need to do bypass that for now.  In Florida, I think we can get by without it!!!  Thanks again for the help.

mustang6984

Gunther (dj) is a pretty good guy to hit up about the 312 stuff. And if you read back through some of his project build stuff...you will see he has a lot of knowledge about the 57's and your wagon especially.
One of many here who will help you out...front bumper to back!  :003:
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

djfordmanjack

#21
Larry, yes I use the drivers side port for vaccuum!
and the large front middle port (manifold vaccuum) for the transmission.
I see you got some Vacc plumbing/hoses on the drivers side rear of valley cover/intake. is that a PCV hose setup and a T fitting? where is it going to? any of it maybe unused A/C lines ?
I believe Hugh mentioned to also check the vacc line fitting and advance unit. On my 292 Y block it was somewhat loose and caused errant vacc supply.
In any case you should use a timing (strobe) light on the pointer and it should give you some good information how good or not the distributor works, especially in hot idle situation. on my engine the worn distributor caused 10-15 degrees errant timing travel in idle. or over 30deg in another engine with a worn drive gear pin and centrifugal unit. checking and repairing these issues worked well on my engines. they are now back to steady idle and easy starting.

Guenter

djfordmanjack

I hope that Jim and other of our members will chime in, they have tremendous amount of Y block experience !

Contibob

Wow, a Factory AC convertible, also power seat. Both very nice cars. Enjoy

lslevin

Gunther, the hose section you see on the rear of the engine is a vacuum port split for the power brake booster and the AC system.  Since we are not going to use the AC system we plugged that port and removed the hose to make sure no leaks we sneaking in the back door of the HVAC system!!!

We appreciate all of your ideas.  One has paid off, the vacuum advance on the dizzy was way loose.  I am sure it was floating around while the engine was under various loads.  The timing is good but I do understand how touchy it can be.  Have cleaned and checked all electrical connections, etc.  All good.  Right now it is dialed in pretty good.  One thing I did not mention earlier is that this car had not be driven in a long time.  Probably a couple of years at least based on what the previous owner told us.  So, it does seem to be getting better each time we drive it. 

One other issue is the idle speed on the carb.  I am having a very difficult time getting it to idle down.  I would like it to be at 800-900 RPM but can only get it in the 1100 range.  Not terrible but I am concerned that I can not get the car lower??

Sorry to go on, but one more thing is the factory compressor we removed from the car...what a beast!!!  I could not lift it out so we had to hook up the engine hoist to pick it up!!!!  Here are a couple of pictures.  Thanks for listening!!!  Larry and Lynn

hiball3985

Welcome, great looking cars you and the wife have.
All the things Gunther mentioned about the ball bearing breaker plate or broke/worn advance springs are very good suggestions.
You can only accurately set the base timing at a lower RPM., at 1100 you maybe getting a false reading. and with the vacuum advance disconnected.
I can't tell by the pictures if there is a spacer between the carb and manifold. These larger CFM carbs have larger venturi and butterflies, the 57 manifold only have 1.5" holes so this mismatch may not let the butterflies completely close which maybe causing the high idle speed. I use a 390CFM Holley which has the 1.5" venturi that matches the manifold. I also use a 1.5" venturi phenolic spacer and that cures the carb percolation and hard starting when hot. Damn Ethonal fuel boils at lower temperatures. Good luck, hope you get it sorted out.
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

djfordmanjack

now we're talking, Jim has joined the conversation !  :003:

djfordmanjack

you have probably done that already, but after sitting for a long time, it would be recommended to drain the old fuel and use a fresh set of spark plugs.

Contibob

What are you going to do with the AC compressor?

fdlrc

One thought: make sure the high idle isn't due to the choke step down idle adjustment.; not coming off its cold, high idle settting, once the choke opens up.
Other- Original owner of 1974 Bronco