1957 country sedan build

[jviera]

Yes, that is the drive drum. John V

[1930artdeco]

New update: The dash is in and I am starting to hook up the wires and determine lengths and routing. It is going to be a routing nightmare, I can see it coming. But, how is the best way to get the glove box in, dash in or do I have to pull it out a bit for easier access? Same go for the radio-it doesn't work it is just a place holder for now.

Slowly but surely I am progressing.......

[lalessi1]

The glove box is an easy install after the dash goes in. The radio will go in after too with a little more effort. I always put both in after the dash goes in.

[1930artdeco]

Well ordered a battery and have only about three or so wires left to hook up! So I am going to try testing circuits this weekend. But, I have a thorny problem to deal with, the fresh are ducts. How do I get the flapper part out of the housing to replace the rubber? Getting the rubber out is no big deal as the two pieces are stapled together. I just cant seem to figure out a way to get the flapper thinga majig out of the housing without drilling out welds and taking it totally apart.

Thanks,

Mike

[djfordmanjack]

Mike, what are you actually talking about ?
The air ducts sit next to the cowl and they have removable oval rubber seals. just 2 screws and they come off.
Yes the flaps have rubber squeezed between layers of sheet metal and rivets need to be drilled out/staples removed to replace. can be done, or just try to seal the flaps with adhesive foam band.

[1930artdeco]

Damn. I was hoping to not have to drill/grind out those spot welds. It is the fresh ducts under the dash that I am referring to. Oh well, if I have to I will and then teapot weld them or screw them together.

On a brighter note-no pun intended-the car has power for the first time in probably 40 odd years!!!!! Some things work-most do not. So off to find gremlins this weekend.

[hiball3985]

Did you find replacement seals for the flaps/doors? I think I would try adhesive rather then taking the welds apart.

[1930artdeco]

Yes I have new rubbers pieces, I just have to think about to get everything apart to fix things. I am hoping to just seperate everything in the housing. Wish me luck.

[1930artdeco]

Update: Electrically speaking that is...She now has functioning head, parking and taillights! I was also able to sort out her left turn signal (I think it was corrosion on the switch-I am still debating if I should use contact cleaner) and her heater motor. I also saw the fuel gauge move so something is working back there, although I need to change out the ground wire for it. The Speedometer will need to come back out after I get done with the wiring to be fixed-I just need to bend the needle more than likely.

Now since I am almost done with the inside, how do I test the ignition and charging system w/o a running engine? I assume I would use a meter on the distributor points but what about the gen? Testing the regulator is in the manual I assume.

Thanks,

Mike

[thomasso]

Hook the generator to power, ground to case and positive to plus post.  if generator motors it is probably OK.

[1930artdeco]

If I do that will I be able to see if its generating current to test the circuit?

[thomasso]

You wont be able to check output that way, but if it motors it should generate.

[1930artdeco]

Update, got all of the turn signals working correctly now. The switch was so corroded I had to hit it with a cleaner, twice and run it back and forth a few times. Onto the engine bay and the ignition circuit as that I think I can test without the motor running. I am not sure about the charging system, that I think is just a continuity check as the engine isn't running yet.

[Jeff Norwell]

Great Progress Mike.. keep moving forward.

[1930artdeco]

Learned something new today. I should have bolted the €<^#^#€<€<!,!<€<€~€~ spark plug wires to the engine when I had it out🙄🙄🙄🙄. Learning whole new words that I didn't know existed about engineers.