1957 country sedan build

[terry_208]

I also used the Express Kit.  I believe that I had said "with back up lights".  That's the only one I am bothered about. Rich how/where did you mount the 30 amp fuse and the relay? I am considering mounting an auxiliary distribution block on the inner fender about where the og windshield washer reservoir would've been.

[abe_lugo]

Mike for light sockets on the dash.  I wire back in my old ones.   The best bet is to find and old looks withFood dash light sockets.  Maybe a someone parting a car out.  I find hard to pay 5.00 each.  The olds one should last long if you rewire the center connection.  If you have the old socket, you really just need the spring and a new wire down the center.

If there are local wrecking yards with old cars.  You can pretty much go and and pull a bunch of them.


If you want to buy as set see link
https://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-dash-light-sockets-1955-57-171606-1.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp57-171606-1&sc_intid=57-171606-1&gclid=CjwKCAjwgaeYBhBAEiwAvMgp2p_DICUbRVRmzdqL8FzZhXYe6sO81i2DnLJ7OAv6aLv9T5LW5ogLBRoC1X8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[RICH MUISE]

I also used the Express Kit.  I believe that I had said "with back up lights".  That's the only one I am bothered about. Rich how/where did you mount the 30 amp fuse and the relay? I am considering mounting an auxiliary distribution block on the inner fender about where the og windshield washer reservoir would've been.

Terry, I mounted my 70 amp fuse and relay on a small panel mounted to the firewall, on the inside, above and to the right of where the e-brake mounts.I have a good pic somewhere, haven't found it yet, but on the first page of this link, at the top, second pic, you can see the wires looping down below the relay and fuse holder.
https://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=5795.0

[1930artdeco]

Good news on the windshield front: trim was saved with no real dents or bends and there is NO RUST!!!!!. Bad news is I lost the windshield getting it out. I put a little too much pressure in one spot and crack.....☹️☹️.  So have two questions: 1) should I order online or locally when they install it. And secondly, how do I get those tiny screws out🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬. I have one that was so rusted I had to drill the head off to get the trim off. I can't get my tiny vice grips on it as there is so little of it left.

[57chero]

The guy that installed my windshield about 11 years ago deliberately broke the little screw tabs off the stainless corner pieces and installed them on the rubber without them.

[abe_lugo]

Get the Dremel with the Diamond bit and shave into a little pit and then find a small enough drill bit to drill it out.  Then find a self taping screw that is similar to the originals size.

I would check into the windshields from the same place you got the side glass.  Most glass places will just charge a ton more for ordering it from the places. At least know the price and ask the installed a head of time.  Also get the rubber too.

[1930artdeco]

Thanks for the tips Abe. I have the gasket already and will ask the local glass company who is going to do the install for a quote on the glass. Looking at two other companies, this was a really big uh oh.....

I am down to one bolt to try and get out and then I can start lifting the body for mount replacement!!!!

[terry_208]

There was no fuse or wire for the Backup lights or the electric fuel pump. 

Overall, as far as I've gotten, the kit has been very well made. I don't intend the above comments as complaints, only as things of note.

I was mistaken/wrong.  In another bag I found the wiring and instructions for the backup lights.

[RICH MUISE]

Have you checked with Auto City Classic? If/when you do, see if they are doing any swap meets in your area for free shipping. aiit takes a lot longer, but saves hundreds on shipping.

[djfordmanjack]

If you have a welder, put a small enough nut over the screw remains and weld them together, then you can easily unscrew it with a hex socket. I have literally removed hundreds of rusted/broken screws/bolts with that method. The welding heat also cracks open the rusted solid areas most times.

And secondly, how do I get those tiny screws out

[1930artdeco]

I finally got the last bolt out and will start replacing the rubber hockey pucks this weekend. My questions are this:

1) I saw on here a 58 dealer bulletin that said when replacing the bolts to put the special nut and washer on the bottom instead of the top. I am going to use a starwasher to help lock everything together. Sound good?

2) I need to replace the front and rear floor pans as well. Is the cutting and welding going to hurt the pucks?

Thanks,

Mike

[1930artdeco]

Update:

I got all of the body rubber and bolts replaced! I figured out that either this kit fits multiple bodies which I think it does or Ford let this frame go down the line minus two supports. According to the instructions there should be two supports on the inside frame rail with special washers. My car (57 wagon) only has the rear mount and the special washers were in two different places. One-the passenger side-was in the correct location, the driver side was in the first outboard support I replaced everything as is the way it came off the car and the doors still line up and shut plus there was no body shift so I figure I will leave it as is. I do have one question though.

1) The very front bolt-the one that is exposed on the bottom-has a gap between the body and the frame. I replaced everything as it came off the car but I still have a tiny gap. Between the frame and the body there should be a square piece of rubber and a shim. So replaced them but either the rubber is two thin or something else goes in there. I can replace the square piece with the round rubber piece and that will take up the gap for sure as it is really thick. Advice?


Thanks Mike

[1930artdeco]

When you all replaced the front windshield gasket di anyone grind down and smooth out the pinch weld area? Mine is really rough and I just wanted it to be smooth.

Thanks,

Mike

[RICH MUISE]

Yeah, Mike,I did. Mine was like a washboard and had burrs hanging on the edges all around from grinding. after stripping to bare metal and treating with zinc phosphate, I filled the low spots with body filler and sanded smooth, and filled the burrs off. I just couldn't see how the rubber seal had any chance of sealing the way it was. I just did it to the outside surface, no need on the inside.

[Ford Blue blood]

I did that as well.  They were really poorly "finished" from the factory! 

The Edsel Pacer had a huge lump of body solder one rear window pinch where the quarter and roof were welded together.  There is no way it was ever sealed from the factory which caused the rear floor pan to go away.