1957 country sedan build

[RICH MUISE]

I pretty much ran mine thru looms, except for the tunnel area so I could run the grouping as flat as possible under the carpet.
One other thing I should talk about.........soldering wire connections. I for the most part did not. Only my battery cables are soldered, everything else is just very carefully crimped. Lots of pros and cons on this subject, but the overall gist I got when researching was that soldering can damage wires if not carefully and professionally done. Too much heat can make the wire ends brittle. Obviously, since I'm not a pro auto electrician, I am not a pro at the soldering either. I have had no issues with crimped connections coming loose.

[mustang6984]

I have done both...used crimp connections that allow me to also solder the connections. Has been a while since I did that, and those connectors may no longer be available. And I no longer own the car either. (One of the few I have parted with in my life)

[KULTULZ]

https://www.motorcraft.com/content/dam/ford-motorcraft/en_us/motorcraft_global/products/wire_sets_wiring/18376-Pigtail-Book-2016.pdf

Scroll down to PG 3. This how FORD does service repairs now. The connectors are available about anywhere.

[mustang6984]

That looks like a good package to have. BUT...how does one who is not a Ford employee get them? No info on the site about how to acquire the tools or the connectors.

[RICH MUISE]

I don't believe any of those "connectors" pictured are soldered, and pretty much irrelevant for most wiring conversion kits used in our old cars as that era wiring for the most part did not use connectors. Of course, my late model engine, tranny, and steering column had mostly multi-wire connections, but those ends were all pre-wired by Ron Francis. What I was talking about was the fuse panel/opposite end of most of those wires that primarily use the single loop connectors.
I always assumed, I guess, The big manufacturers did NOT solder connections, even back in the 50's. Right? wrong?

[Ford Blue blood]

A mid 70s Mustang wire harness I took apart to use in a 48 half ton I built had several junctions of three to four wires soldered together and wrapped with tape.  All the "ends" and "connectors" were crimped with a rubber shape molded over them to seal them up.

Rich is correct, amateur soldering can sometimes yield unsatisfactory results with "cold" joints or over heated wires causing the wire to crack.  There are several crimping tools available that will give the perfect crimp, no loose or too tight which will in effect cut the wire.  They are worth every cent for the best long term results.

[KULTULZ]

That looks like a good package to have. BUT...how does one who is not a Ford employee get them? No info on the site about how to acquire the tools or the connectors.

Well, the MOTORCRAFT TOOLS are $$$. You can get the tool kits from MOTORCRAFT or a ROTUNDA TOOL DEALER or OTC. You can buy the actual tools most anywhere (watch quality).

The CONNECTORS have MOTORCRAFT PART NUMBERS on them. AMAZON should have them or a dealer. You can buy the same connectors from a vendor. Just be sure of quality.

The reason I posted that was to show that the procedure is recommended/approved by FORD (current).

 

[mustang6984]

Okay...I'll look around. I am a ways off from wiring my Courier, and bought a wiring harness for that purpose. the Fairlane I have not yet investigated the harness on...but so far looks like the car is unmolested by anyone so I am hoping the harness will also be in same shape.

[KULTULZ]

I should have given you a source for the FORD SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS -

https://www.freedomracing.com/specialty-tools.html?cat=530

If you want early tools that have been discontinued, you would search the TOOL NO. on the net and/or EvilBay.

For current tools vendors as listed above. OTC is the supplier to FORD so you may be able to find the same tool much cheaper.

OTC TOOLS - https://www.otctools.com/

[1930artdeco]

Update-since it has been awhile. I have rewired the rear and 98% of the engine compartment. I had to remove the wiper system to clean and lube it and found the drive drum is toast and I have to get another one. But I got all of the pulleys free and spinning. Once they go back in, the Newport wiper goes in, and the dash gets rewired and it goes in. Once all the electrical checks out and drains-drain and not leak, I am off to floor pans. I found a replacement rubber piece for the drain tube and I will post pics of it next week.

But, I have one question: how do I determine tension on the pulleys? I heard you are supposed to use a nail to keep tension on the pully system. Mine are locked in by some metal tabs which I have to pry up to move the assembly. These are set up from the factory so I am a little leary about changing the tension on them.

[terry_208]

I pried the tabs back and inserted a cotter pin.  The pullies are spring loaded and mine didn't require further tensioning.

[RICH MUISE]

I assume you have read our great thread on the wiper system? It's pinned to the top in one of the technical boards.

[1930artdeco]

Yep, but I will have to go and reread it when I get a new drive drum and prep to reinstall.

[terry_208]

Yep, but I will have to go and reread it when I get a new drive drum and prep to reinstall.

What is the drive drum?  Is that the plate that is bolts to the firewall and holds the wiper motor?

[1930artdeco]

Terry, that is the piece I need. I don't know its actual name is.

Mike