Remanufactured Y-Block for my car

[djfordmanjack]

Rich,  as Jim mentioned, that is an awesome og 57 ball bearing unit. They are nice but can wear out with time. Make sure it does not have too much play, and if so, you can still save it by putting a small spring to the rotating base plate and holding it to one side of the dizzy housing. that way you get rid of the play that can cause timing wandering. I believe this will even work better with an electronic pickup, that does not put any forces to the cam lobes, as conventional breaker points would.

You have an original ball bearing breaker plate, not many of those around any more and they were only used for a couple of years, thats why the straight arm advance is hard to find. When your new engine shows up check the head casting numbers..

[ROKuberski]

When you are not a Y-Block expert, (come to think of it, I don't think I'm an expert at anything anymore-except perhaps BS) you don't know what you have, only what you need.  I've had such good luck finding the parts I need, the stopper on the vacuum advance unit had me scrambling.  However, I've tested my modified unit and it is working fine.

My distributor seems to be in fine condition.  No wobble or wiggle.  It does have the port for manual oiling and I think I've done that about once per year (I put on about 1,500 miles per year).

FedEx tells me that the engine will be delivered to my home tomorrow afternoon.  It was sent from S&J engines in Seattle Wednesday afternoon.  By 9:30 pm it was in Oregon, by 4:30 am Thursday morning it was in Colorado.  They flew the damn thing here.  It must weigh about 700# in its crate.  I'm not up to snuff on shipping costs, but it seems like a deal at $175.

Rich

[terry_208]

It does seem like a deal on shipping.  FedEx wanted $686 to ship a 29# packaged "A" pillar, to Hawaii.

[hiball3985]

Thats an unbelievable shipping price 
My wife bought her Escape from Carmax, it was in Salt Lake and the shipping charge to LA was only $149, I thought that wasn't bad..

[ROKuberski]

Trouble, not much, but here it is.

I need to remove the sheet metal piece that sits on the engine at the place where the oil filter mounts.  I've removed the big nut that the oil filter screws onto and looking at the new engine, it appears that this piece just sits against the casting.  However, with a moderate amount of force, it is not popping off.

Suggestions? - {Never mind.  Once I found that I could buy this part, I put more force on it and it finally gave way and I did not damage it.}

Rich

[ROKuberski]

There is something that pissed me off this afternoon.  Almost all of the gasket mating surfaces are painted as well as the spark plug holes.  I have always taped off mating surfaces before painting.  I've seen on the internet various opinions on this, but for me, and especially in the spark plug holes, this is a no go.  I've already got almost all of the gasket surfaces cleaned, but haven't started on the spark plug holes yet.

Comments?

Rich

[hiball3985]

Paint on the exhaust ports wont hurt, just smoke a little until it burns off, or use a little sand paper to remove it before installing. I think I would remove it on the timing cover surface. There is a tool called a spark plug thread chasing, it's like a tap.

[ROKuberski]

I'm almost done with the paint removal.  I am not so much worried about the spark threads but rather the tapered edge where the plug seats into the head.

Whether it's right or wrong, it is not what I expected.  Since I never paint gasket mating surfaces and have never seen anyone else do it, it does not seem right to put a material into the mix that will likely deteriorate in the hot environment.  If you've ever watched any of the "RED LINE Rebuild" series, you will see them always protect the gasket surfaces from paint.

Rich

[hiball3985]

Yes the tapered area should be cleaned and I should have mention that. I like clean threads so I can get the most ground area possible. When ever I have machine work done I always tell them not to paint anything..

[ROKuberski]

I already told them that their paint job has cost me more time and effort than actually painting the engine.  I'll get over it, I suppose.

Rich

[hiball3985]

I have an old set of plugs I put in the holes before painting, I'm sure they could have done something similar. Did you check the head casting numbers? I see they used a 56 block, which is fine..

[ROKuberski]

What's your clue that it's a '56 block?  Yes, the heads are correct.

I've got all of the offending paint off.  I used a wood plug with a rag soaked in acetone.  Had all clean in 15 minutes. 

I did some more painting this morning and I will start reassembly soon. 

I have a Radio Club event tomorrow and that will kill a nice warm day,  It's not supposed to snow again until Monday.  March and April are our snowiest months, but there is warm weather between snows. 

Rich

[ROKuberski]

Ya know, sometimes all you have to do is read the instructions.

The gasket set has a little paper with "Installations Instructions."

Item #1 Clean Mating Surfaces of all foreign material.  I'm going to put paint in the "foreign material" category.

Rich

[hiball3985]

The "A" suffix in the block casting number indicates 1956 292-312
A "B" suffix is 56-57 292-312 and I have no idea what or if there is any difference?
One of my 292 is built from a 55 272 block.

Looks like you got a nice engine for that price 

[KULTULZ]

There is something that pissed me off this afternoon.  Almost all of the gasket mating surfaces are painted as well as the spark plug holes.  I have always taped off mating surfaces before painting.  I've seen on the internet various opinions on this, but for me, and especially in the spark plug holes, this is a no go.  I've already got almost all of the gasket surfaces cleaned, but haven't started on the spark plug holes yet.

Comments?

Rich

That would frost my package. Did they also spray the lifter valley?