Remanufactured Y-Block for my car

[KULTULZ]

They power up the engine with an external motor to do their final checks as well as compression checks.

... hmmpf ...

That's a new one to me ...

[KULTULZ]

The oil is supplied through a grove in the cam shaft journal, A grove cut in the boss behind the bearing is a modification made by a builder, usually a hi performance builder not from the factory.

OEM assembly correct, but with the FYB valve-train oil deficiencies one of several modifications should have been performed. That's why I asked if it was a rebuild on his engine or a rebuilt exchange.

From the EATON ARTICLE -

Modifications for top end oiling can include machining the groove in the center cam journal deeper, using a cam bearing with the oil groove on the outside of the bearing, or installing a groove in the center cam bearing hole that interconnects all three holes.  The outside grooved cam bearing or putting a groove in the block circumvents the camshaft groove being relied upon to get oil to the top end of the engine.  Machining the existing groove in the center journal of the camshaft deeper is relatively simple and easily performed by most machine shops.  Using a cam bearing that has the oil groove on the outside diameter of the bearing is a special purchase item and care must be taken when installing that particular bearing as using a hammer and puck to install that center bearing can deform the bearing at its center simply making it too tight for the camshaft to fit in it when installing the cam.  Those bearings are best installed using some kind of pull bar tool so that they are not shock loaded with a hammer and puck.

[hiball3985]

OEM assembly correct, but with the FYB valve-train oil deficiencies one of several modifications should have been performed. That's why I asked if it was a rebuild on his engine or a rebuilt exchange.

From the EATON ARTICLE -

I'm well aware of the things Ted does to modify but it isn't relative to the engine being discussed.

[KULTULZ]

I'm well aware of the things Ted does to modify but it isn't relative to the engine being discussed.

You forgot to add IMO.

It applies to any FYB engine rebuild. The reason(s) are given (IMO).

[RICH MUISE]

IMO.......I think what Jim was saying it does not apply to Rich's engine, which this thread was about, not rebuilds in general, or in particular high $ rebuilds by guys like Ted. Rich did title the thread "........for my car". We just got off on a tangent.

[ROKuberski]

Just a brief update.  Last Saturday (4/2) a friend and the 20-year old son of a friend came over and we stuffed the engine back in the car.  Prior to installing the engine I cranked the oil pump with a drill and got oil flowing.  Then, with the distributor installed, I cranked with the starter and got 55 psi measured where the oil sending unit goes.  I got 2 -3 minutes of run time over 5 cranking sessions, leaving time for battery recharges and cooling of the starter.

I removed the left side engine mount and then installed the engine.  I should have removed the right side mount instead as I cannot get to the bolts on the left side without removing the oil filter.  I did measure between the studs on the engine mounts and it will not fit with both installed, as is noted in the maintenance manual.

I've also modified the bracket for the new cable accelerator, which will also support the TV cable.  Right now, most of the engine work is done, still have to install the radiator, battery bracket, connect some wires and install the transmission, which I have way too much experience with.  I won't be able to work on it again until Saturday.  Baring any problems, I hope to have it running in a week or so.

Rich

PS - My pictures are not showing up, and as I went back to look at other pictures, they too are not showing up.  Don't know why.

 

[RICH MUISE]

Not sure I can help with the pics.........but JFYI Joe posted some that did show.

[hiball3985]

Great progress Rich. May I suggest when you first start up don't let it idle. Turn the rpm up to a minimum of 2500 rpm and let it run at that rpm for about 20 minutes to ensure enough oil is splashed onto the cam and lifter for break in.

[ROKuberski]

My instructions (warning) from the manufacturer is to run at 1,800 RPM for 15 minutes right after the first start up.

Cranking with the starter and no plugs got me 55 PSI and visible oil in the valve train.  I'm feeling pretty good that all will be okay.

Rich

[ROKuberski]

Not sure I can help with the pics.........but JFYI Joe posted some that did show.

Rich,

I am not seeing any pictures, including some that I've previously posted.  When I click on a picture, I get a new smaller window popup in the upper right corner that list the name of the picture file and an icon to click on to download the picture.  it does not download.  I looked at my setup options and can't see anything that would affect how pictures are viewed.  I am using Windows 11.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Rich

[Ford Blue blood]

Try a picture post here.....had trouble figuring out the "manage attachments" thing was in the preview look. 

Ok, no thumbnail?  Is this correct?  Sorry for hijack.....

[hiball3985]

My instructions (warning) from the manufacturer is to run at 1,800 RPM for 15 minutes right after the first start up.

Cranking with the starter and no plugs got me 55 PSI and visible oil in the valve train.  I'm feeling pretty good that all will be okay.

Rich

That may be fine, just don't let it idle.

[CobraJoe]

Again, I use IMGUR. It's free and easy.

Here's a link to a thread i started on how to use it:

https://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=7624.0

[hiball3985]

Picture post testing.


Edit, didn't work

[ROKuberski]

Cobra Joe's link did not work for me and I'm wondering if anyone is seeing the recently posted images.  I am not.

Rich