Heater switch and courtesy light wiring

[terry_208]

I was checking the function of my heater switch before installing the dash.  I expected to have continuity between the center post on the back and the top and bottom terminals with the switch activated.  I have no continuity between none of the terminals regardless the on/off position.  My thought is that the switch is bad. Thoughts?

Before I ask the question about the courtesy lights, I will say that I ran new wire(s) to the socket for the overhead courtesy light.  I want to use door activated switches along with another on/off switch, preferably on the headlight switch.  Additionally, I'd like to install small floor lights under the edge of the dash.

Can someone, with more intelligence than I possess, tell me how to wire it?  I am installing a Ron Francis "Express" wire kit so I do have a fuse panel.

[Ford Blue blood]

The stock dome light was wired off the head light switch.  The is a 5 amp fuse on the back of the switch that provides the power.  Wires ran from that fuse to both the door switches.  From there to the lamps, which have their sockets tied to ground.  The rheostat that controls the dash lights also provided power to the dome light when it was turned to the "full bright", you could feel the switch as it made contact to turn on the light.  The second lead going to the dome lamp is hot (+12V) to allow you to manually turn on the dome light.

To turn on the "floor" lights simply wire them to the lead from the door switches going to the dome lamp.

The heater switch gets it's power from one of the three leads coming from the heater box.  There are two wire resistors in the box.  They are fed power and the switch simply selects one of the three leads to send power to the motor.  One lead is the full 12V, the next one is power through the first resistor and the third one is power through both resistors.  This lets you select high, medium or low speeds.  If I remember it correctly?

[terry_208]

Thanks for the info.