1957 Courier rehab

[xonewm]

I think the same way Terry does. I lean toward overlapping from top to bottom to prevent water build up in the seams if they leak.
And based on Rich's comment, I better hang the doors before doing the rocker panels.

John,
I have no preference on the 57/58 dash. If you want them, PM me and I'll get some pix to you.
I'll be out of town until next week though.

Willie

[KYBlueOval]

Willie......I sent you a Private Message (PM)

John

[RICH MUISE]

I think the same way Terry does. I lean toward overlapping from top to bottom to prevent water build up in the seams if they leak.
And based on Rich's comment, I better hang the doors before doing the rocker panels.

Not necessarily. If your old rockers are still attached, just get some good reference measurements. If not, maybe some good pics/ref. dimensions from somebody else's.

[xonewm]

Pictures - 58(?) dash components. First batch.

[xonewm]

Pictures - 58(?) dash components. Second batch.

[hiball3985]

58 dash for sure, I think only six cylinder models had manual chokes.

[KYBlueOval]

Jim, you are correct. V8's had "Lighters"
John

[djfordmanjack]

That's a sweet factory looking mod ! I really like the white 58 gauges/knobs and the different checker style chrome trim parts !

[incahoots]

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I see where you already said you were in Ryderwood. Been there more than a few times. I worked out of Olympia for 44 years. Part of that time doing contract work for the courts and prosecutors in Thurston.
You are 2098 miles from my driveway. We might be able to get Fed-Ex to ship them. As I stated, your price for them is free...so your cost would be the shipping.
I'll send you a P/M with my phone number.
 
Just trying to help but you guys should check with Fastenal shipping (blue line freight) they ship between fastenal stores and haul general freight for a LOT less. The catch is you have to deliver & pickup at the nearest store to you.
Hope this helps 👌

[mustang6984]

I'll check that out! Thanks!

[xonewm]

Finally installed fenders and hood on the Courier. Had the same gap at the front of the hood as my wagon.
How do I get rid of the excessive gap? It's probably something simple but it escapes me. Including pix of the wagon since it's outside with better light.

[RICH MUISE]

No simple answer. Has the skin on the hood been totally replaced with the T-Bird, or just the scoop added? You can see where I'm going with this. The gaps on the side look really tight. How are the gaps between the fender and cowl area/doors? Can the fenders be pushed back?
Your gap does seem beyond the norm, Your nose piece looks a bit low. Maybe loosening all those end and middle bolts and rotating a little will help some, but not enough by itself. I would think you should have some play on the hood hinge bolts that may allow the hood to be slid forward a bit??? As I said, no easy fix, I've got to realign the front sheetmetal on mine, and I've been avoiding it like the plague. 

[xonewm]

Thanks for the input. The gaps at the back of the hood and fenders is close to normal. I'll try shifting the "nose" piece tomorrow and see how that goes.
Both of my cars ended up this way when I re-assembled them. The only thing I've learned is the hinges do not adjust up/down.

[KYBlueOval]

Willie, I just went though this same issue. I have the advantage that my parts are in primer and the grill is not installed, nor the gravel pan or bumper.
I fixed it by slotting the holes on the hinge, where the hinge mounts to the core support.
I placed tape below the bottom of the hinge, and along the sides, to mark its current position, and made an educated WAG (wild ass guess) as to how much it needed to come down, and marked that spot.
I did it with the hood on.There are 4 bolts that secure the hinge to the core support. I made sure the top 2 were tight and removed the 2 bottom bolts, and wedged a small shim in behind the bottom of the hinge to get it away from the core support. With a carbide bit in a Dremel tool, I slotted both lower holes on the hinge,so the hinge could come down.
When it came time to loosen the upper bolts I made sure the hood was in the full up position. When I loosened the upper bolts it moved down. In fact it moved past my line, so with a bottle jack and piece of wood 2X2 I jacked it back up, tightened the lower bolts and got it where it needs to be.
I'll do the upper holes when I remove the "chin" piece between the fenders.
I can post some photos if you need them.
John

[Ford Blue blood]

John that would be a SWAG....scientific wild ass guess.....