Bad roadtrip 10 days ago.

[mustang6984]

Not being the least familiar with your engine, I ask this then:
I know doing it would be a major PITA...but if you remove the intakes, can you then access the needed space to do what needs to be done?
I ask, because ANY time you do anything to deviate from what an automotive computer expects...you ask for trouble

[RICH MUISE]

I'm not so sure about it being a problem if deleted. First, it's commonly done, and secondly, I've looked at at least 3 Lincolns that had the exhaust port capped off in the same way........almost like it was a Ford fix. Unfortunately, about 2 months ago I just sent off the engine that was sitting in my back yard for 3+ years.that I screwed up with an oil change fopar. I could have used that engine/intake as a "form" to make a new one. I'd still need to start with a new one and make changes to fit my needs. bending 1/2 ID pipe isn't easy, but the main issue would be each end has a 90* rim that seats inside the attaching nuts. Not a doable design, so the need for a new similar piece to start with.
So, yeah, it can be done, I've done it before, but the question is......is it all worth it??
There are guys here that will know, Bill and others, I suspect maybe are on the road going someplace for Thanksgiving.

[hiball3985]

Rich if the pipe was broken on the old engine it was probably just sucking air??? so your idea of the EGR sucking air might work.
There is a place in Texas that has tons of old OEM stock, I just can't recall the name right no, brain dead as usual

[mustang6984]

Check with a plumber that has a pipe bender. They can bend thick pipe like bending a piece of copper wire.

[RICH MUISE]

I've decided not to worry about it until I found out whether or not it's a problem. I'll hang on to my old engine this time, and if I do decide to replace it down the road, I'll start with a new egr pipe assembly and modify it as needed. Lincoln EGR position combined with Mustang Cobra exhaust's egr pipe location means I'm not going to be able to use an unmodified unit. Problem is not so much the bending as the "flare" on each end. That flare (can't think of the right term), is not like a brake line flare, it's like a hat section, 90* from pipe and flat.

[RICH MUISE]

Not too much to report.........I found another issue that kinda put most everything concerning reassembly on hold until resolved. In my pile of parts on my workbench, I had the oil dipstick from the old engine. We had pulled the dipstick off the replacement engine, and my son had swapped the Cobra exhaust manifolds. I didn't realize, or had forgot from years past, that the oil dipstick fits on between the block and the exhaust manifold. SHEEEEEETTTTT!!!!! No way the manifold was coming off with the engine in the car. I checked to see if Lokar made a flexible dipstick like theirs that I have for my Transmission. They did, but for the same year 5.0. I figured the critical part was going to be where it fit into the block, and odds were that they'd be the same. They were not. After Jegs shipped me an altinator bracket for a small block chevy instead of the dipstick, it took almost another week to get the dipstick. It wouldn't work. Partly because of different diameters on the engine block end, but also because instead of Lokar, they sent me a JEGS version, which was, near as I can figure 6" shorter than the LOkar. Anyway, I decided to cut up my old dipstick and use some braided stainless tubing to make my own flexible dipstick. Fortunatly, the hydraulic hose shop in Amarillo had a short section of very unusual sized AN7 that worked perfect. Dipstick is in, albeit in a different location, and working just fine. I forgot to take a picture before I installed it.
Now I can go on to hooking up wires and plumbing that I held off on until I knew whether or not the engine had to be lifted out some.

[hiball3985]

Seems we all do the same dance at some point, one step forward and two back Glad you were able to fix the issue and can move on now.

[RICH MUISE]

I'm getting close. Lots of small stuff/changes/fixes that seem to be taking a ton of time..........example.......the engine I just removed had 3 locations for water temp. sensors. I needed all 3. One for the computer, one for cooling fan control, one for temp. gauge. My replacement engine only has two. A call to Ron Francis to see if I could simply splice two together got a long technical explanation of why I couldn't. I finally figured out I could add a third threaded bung to coolant pipes that already have the two. I found an old coolant pipe in my stash, so I got a bung cut out of it and hopefully will be welding it up this morning. First, I've got to rearrange stuff in my garage so I can weld without burning the place down. Hope my welder still works after sitting for 5 years untouched. I did get the argon tank refilled this week.

[hiball3985]

You are probably a better elder then me. On thin material ( I'm assuming ) like tubing I usually braze it.

[RICH MUISE]

I got it welded, but my welder was fighting me (what doesn't anymore!?). probably needs a good cleaning and lube to get the wire feed running smoothly again. The weld wasn't pretty, but thank god for grinders. Got it cleaned and painted. I need to run a 3/8-NPT tap down into the bung to get the threads cleaned up...sensor was really tight, probably from all the welding heat. Nobody in town had a 3/8 NPT tap, I've got one coming in from O'Reilly's tomorrow.
I also welded up a cap for the exhaust manifold where the EGR pipe is no longer.
btw, Jim.thanks.....I've never been called a better elder before, lol.

[Ford Blue blood]

Glad to hear you are making progress!  My shop work has been minimal and given we are heading to the "Frozen Tundra" Monday it will stay locked up for another two weeks.  In the mean time keep on keeping on.....

[hiball3985]

OOOPS, my elder typing 

[RICH MUISE]

Delayed another few days to get some very tedious "upgrades" done while access is still a bit easier. I had previously covered the engine bay wires using the plastic split-type coverings. some of them were breaking up/falling apart, so I decided to replace them with the braided nylon type. My local O'Reillys had only the 3/8 size, but I picked up one box just to see if I liked it. I did, so I ordered 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 from ebay. Expensive, but less than half of the O'Reilly price.
Other than that, my to-do list is down to installing the EGR caps, attaching wires @ starter, and installing the radiator and all associated hoses. The battery should be ok, but I'm going to throw a charge on it today just in case.
 Hopefully, when she does crank up, none of the 3 or 4 things I need to check will be an issue.

[RICH MUISE]

I did get it fired up yesterday....   It only took about 3 seconds of cranking. I think the engine sounds great, but hard to tell for sure with a loud squealing noise coming from the front. Also, have 3 fuel injectors leaking, and at least one coolant leak.
Today, I'll remove the (new)serpentine belt and restart it. Hopefully, the squealing will go away and it'll just be a matter of eliminating possible bolted-on sources. The power steering pump. A/C compressor, alternator, and belt tensioner all came off my old engine. The water pump and crankshaft pully are what was on the "new" engine. The PS reservoir was filled, but I have not added anything to the A/C compressor.
Aside from that, I still need to work on getting my transmission cooling lines hooked up to something. I simply don't have the hand strength to push them onto the radiator connectors. For the start-up, I got anxious and just used a short section of ss tubing to loop the hoses together without going through the radiator.
LOL, trying to find the right-sized tubing to use, I thought about a telescoping magnetic pick-up tool, of which I had 3. I now have 2. My larger one got sacrificed/ cut apart for the right-sized tubing.........worked perfectly!. As for my transmission cooling lines, I may have to remove my cooling fan, which I installed attached to the radiator, for better access.

[RICH MUISE]

Took the fan belt off, and luckily the squealing went away, and I suspect it may be the new fanbelt itself. I didn't like the way it was made. after I fix a few fuel leaks, I'll put the old fan belt on, and hopefully no squealing.
The engine sounds awesome, so that's a relief, and it confirms that converting the newer OBD11 system engine to run on OBD1 is no problem. Also, taking the EGR pipe out of the equation is, at this point, not an issue either.
Still have lots to do before it's road-ready, but I can see the light.