Junk / scrap yard 57's

[Ed Hawkins]

I have posted before about my project 57 and I have run into a major headache. The front end of the car has no movement even when I removed the inline 6 and transmission. I drilled out the original upper ball joints and have released all the bolts(not removed) and I can't disengage the upper or lower ball joints. The shocks have been removed but the spring is still in place. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Just additional information both frames have the same issue!

[Lgcustom]

Ed, it's been a while since I worked on mine, but I would put the bolts back in the joints to hold them steady.
Then loosen the nuts on the studs about 1/4 inch. Then take a large ball peen hammer and strike the spindle next to the ball joint stud until it pops loose. If that doesn't work then you will need a pickle fork tool to separate the joints. The same thing works for the tie rod ends. I hope this helps.

[rmk57]

  I hope you have a coil spring compressor in place or at least a floor jack underneath the lower control arm. Lots of stored energy in a coil spring and can be dangerous when the ball joint decides to pop loose.

[RICH MUISE]

Yeah, what they both said. A threaded rod passed down thru after the shocks are removed will work as well. I used a 5/8" threaded rod with milling machine table clamp bars.
Those spindles / ball joints unions are tapered and tend to rust together after all the years, so it's gonna take some whacks with a hammer to break it loose, but as LG said, keep those castle nuts still attached after loosening. Y ou don't want to see what happens if that spring comes out all on it's own.

[cos]

Hello  Think fords cook book shows a tool for removing ball joints. Easy to make.  All thread rod thru shock holes.

[Ed Hawkins]

Thanks for the reply's! I ended up using a bearing separator on 3 and it spread on the fourth one. So I borrowed one to finish up. Jack under the spindles for safety and nobody was hurt! The existing spring is about 4 inches longer than the aspen springs so time to rethink that issue.

[Lgcustom]

Glad to hear you got it handled safely!

[59meteor]

With no engine and transmission, the suspension won`t have any movement, without that weight in place. The suspension is topped up against either the bump stops or the extension travel of the shocks. As mentioned, the ball joints use tapered studs, so either a pickle fork, which will most likely destroy the rubber boots, a Ford factory style tool that puts tension on both ball joints at the same time, or a good whack with a hammer to knock the press fit of the taper. Also, you mention "Aspen" springs, which I don`t know what you mean, a Dodge Aspen uses transverse mounted torsion bars in the front, and rear leaf springs, so no coil springs at all.

[djfordmanjack]

here's a simple tool that I made from box tubing, some washers and a heavy bolt with a large nut. it is shaped after an og spreader tool.
There are washers welded on top and bottom so they rest on the ball joint threads, and there is a recess in the box tubing, for one of the backing plate bolts.
In this picture it already sits loose. ball joint nuts are still in place but the tapers have already broken free.

.

[Ecode70D]

G.  That's a nice looking home made tool.  Jay

[Ford Blue blood]

I cut my coils, (use a cut off wheel to avoid heat softening), the drop came out exactly like I wanted (lucky, hit it on the first try) and the ride was just right also.  Was a 292/auto, now 351C/AOD.

[djfordmanjack]

Jay, I made that tool 27 years ago when I lowered my first 57 SD. I have used it on several early Fords since. also worked great on my 53 Lincoln. Cheap but sturdy and simple.

G.  That's a nice looking home made tool.  Jay

[Ecode70D]

G
   Come to think about it, on my 57 Custom, I had to take the front springs
 out twice and cut them twice to get the height where it is now. It has been
about 10 years now and I am happy that everything is settled in.
    The weather is getting warmer now, but we have had constant rain  just about all of April and I still have not been able to take the 57 out. J.

[Jeff Norwell]

57 and 58 Springs(front and rear leafs) are available from Eaton Spring.
They offer (for front coils) stock height and 1 and 2 inch lower or higher if you want.They also have the rubber cups needed for the spring tops.
Last I looked... it was about $300 for a set... shipping extra....
As for Front Spring rates....(because 57-58 Fords varied) that would be a phone call with them to discuss.

On my 57's for rear leaf packages.I used McVeigh's Spring...(I believe they are listed on our parts supplier page)
I bought the Police Package set up.. for both cars.. 6 leafs per side as Ford offered a 4 pack per side as standard.

At the time, McVeighs were about $275 for the rear leaf spring packages.... but it may have increased.
I bought the longer UBolts as well.