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items required for windshield installation

Started by terry_208, 2025-04-15 09:26

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terry_208

Exactly what items are required to install a windshield in a 57?

I know the glass, seal/gasket, and stainless but what else is required? Just a couple small screws, IIRC.

I ask because I got a quote of $982.58 for the glass and gasket and was told "all parts would need to be ordered in".  Another guy from the same company quoted me about $425 for the glass.  The quote for the glass isn't too bad for being local.  The $982 seems outrageous.   Auto City Classics list their windshield for $279 plus shipping.

TIA for your replies/thoughts. 
Terry

Lgcustom

Terry,
You'll also want some sealer to place between the glass and gasket and also in the groove in the gasket that goes to the body. Additionally, a long piece of 1/8th cord to lay into the gasket outer groove. Installation is not a complicated process, but it takes two people to lift the glass into place before pulling the cord to flip the gasket over the body flange.

oldave57

I installed my own windshield on my 57 Retractable (back in 2020, so most of this is from memory since I did not think at the time to take step by step photos).  These are the items I used.

1)  Windshield (of course).  I ordered mine from Auto City Classics (very happy with their quality as well as shipping container and protection of the glass.
2) Windshield Seal.  I ordered mine from Jerry's Classic Cars (not sure if they are still in business)
3) Sealant.  I used clear silicone sealant and I know there are lots of opinions on the sealant, but I wanted something that wouldn't get too "tacky" too quickly.
4) Rope.  I ordered a 1/8" nylon rope from Amazon (probably need around 25' but I ordered 40' because that's what they had closest to what I thought I needed.  That rope worked pretty well, especially around the sharp corners at the bottom and it is strong enough to hold everything I could pull.
5)  Soapy Water (about 1/2 dishwashing soap and 1/2 water) to spray along the edge of the seal as you are going.  It doesn't matter if you get things a bit wet but it helps with the seal popping into place.  Put this mixture in an old Windex bottle.

I ordered the green tinted version.  My original windshield was also green tinted, but I had originally thought it was clear.  The tech at Auto City Classics recommended I hold a white card behind the glass and sure enough it revealed a slight green tint.

This is a 2-person job because you will need to have someone on the outside to "slap" the windshield as you are pulling on the rope.  I placed the windshield on a 6' table to install the rubber seal.  It is super important to get the seal centered on the windshield.  Once in place, I added duct tape in several places to keep the seal from moving.  I also added a mark at the top of the windshield frame (pinch weld) so I could use it to align the windshield.  It was a lot easier for my installation because I could do it with the top down so I had some access to the outside of the glass during the installation. 

The first step is to clean the pinch weld area of the windshield frame as clean as possible before applying any sealant.  You have to work the rope into the windshield seal and since I was planning to rope the glass in starting
at bottom center, I started one end of the rope there (leaving about 2' for overlap) and worked the rope into the seal while it was still on the table. 
I sat the windshield into the opening and started roping in from the bottom of the glass.  The 57 Ford manual says to start at the top but the windshield weight seems to help push in at the bottom.  You have to keep spraying the soapy water around as best you can as you are going, particularly around the corners as you are pulling in on the rope and your helper is "slapping" in on the windshield from the outside, trying your best to keep the windshield centered.  I pulled a bit from center on each side, so I could reach the corners as close as possible at the same time. The corners at the rear are pretty difficult, but doable.  You then work your way around the upper corners and windshield top again trying to keep the rope equal on both sides so you reach the center together if that makes sense. 

It is a challenging installation but doable.  I had also gotten a quote from a local auto glass business, but I had to order all parts and had to agree that if something happened to the windshield during installation, it was "on me".  I thought if it's going to break and I have to pay for it, I might as well try myself. 

Good luck. 
Dave


mustang6984

There is a shop up the road about 35-40  miles from me...they said they'd order it and install it for me. Less than $500. I asked what if it broke, they said they'd have to order another. No problem. I asked who'd pay for it if it broke, they said they would, "of course!"
I've done a lot of business with them, family operation. I'm chicken...I'll let them do it.
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

RICH MUISE

#4
.Dave....you were right to not use that glass guy!! Once I had my windshield ready to install, it took my wife and I less than 1/2 hour.
You did not mention the stainless trim. I don't know about convertibles, but the Customs at least need the stainless trim installed before the glass goes in. I also started pulling the string (I used bricklayers/construction twine) at the bottom, because like you said, the weight of the glass works in your favor. Most important is making sure the glass is centered because you do not want to be slapping that glass on it's sides/ends to try and move it.

BTW, most "clear" glass does have a green tint to it. Window glass does, and even picture framing quality glass does unless you pay 10x as much for museum glass.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

terry_208

Thanks everyone. 

I knew there's not much to doing the install.  I remember doing it 60+ years ago while working in the body shop.  I'm getting old and things don't move like they used to. Also, I don't have much patience.

I found out that the $982 included the install and would be $135 cheaper as I have the seal.
Terry

abe_lugo

I posted my version of the directions in the past I think the best pointer is to use blue tape about 2 inches around the area outside of the trim in case you're using a sealant. This will keep things clean. Obviously clean the gutters and area real well  With soapy water and then maybe thinner.
The last pointer is to mark the center of both the trim covers use a piece of blue tape and then sharpie and the center of the windshield.  The centering of the windshield also on the glass you put blue tape on the glass and do it about an inch below or two.
Centering the windshield during the insulation helps keep from getting the gaps at the rear corners when trying to set the glass in also, I set the bottom and in the lip and pull the rope from the bottom up.
Abe      Los Angeles, CA  IN Los Angeles proper. 90008

oldave57

Rich,

You are likely correct on the timing of the stainless trim installation.  The Ford manual states that it needs to be installed prior to glass going into frame, but I honestly do not remember exactly when I installed the stainless trim.  It seems to me that I installed it after the glass was in place but again, the main thing is keeping the windshield centered in the frame so that when you get to the corners everything falls into place.

Dave

Lgcustom

I agree with Rich that installing the trim into the gasket before installing the windshield is the easiest way to do it. I even had trouble installing the corner pieces without damaging them.

abe_lugo

First install the rubber on the glass, then the trims on the rubber.  It is usually dry on the inner side where the glass touches the rubber (no sealant)I used blue tape to hold it all together when I work around.

On the hard tops the fat top trim goes last when the glass is in. 

On the sedan, wagon,ranchero  the lower corners can be put in last also.  Difficult but possible.  In fact I believe the lower long trim needs a screw on the outer ends then the corner caps go on.
Abe      Los Angeles, CA  IN Los Angeles proper. 90008

RICH MUISE

Correct.......I failed to mention the ss trim needs to be installed before installing the glass/seal/trim assembly EXCEPT for the lower corners because screws go thru the trim into the windshield posts.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Jeff Norwell

#11
I installed both my front and rear windshields on my 300's....
All info is correct here.
I asked all my questions to Jay(E-code).... the window pinch are must be extremely clean, free of any debris.
2 other friends really helped with the install....
the glass(if used must be completely clean of any old sealant.I also used blue tape to hold the rubber and again adding the stainless. Like Rich mentioned, leave the stainless corners off.They go on after everything is in and tight.
Centering the front to rear glass is a must.... mark the body and the glass for centre.
using a 1/8 nylon rope about 15 feet.... roll that into the attached rubber seal.
I use a ton of Dawn liquid soap.... coating the rubber, coating the pinch welds all around the windshield opening.
I never used any sealant.
A man on each end of the glass and one in the car.. set the glass centred .... setting the top in first and letting gravity help.
As the seal gets fitted(slowly). pushing on the glass gently following the inside guy doing the rope trick.
There is a good many vids on u the which give the general idea...

I will admit.... I was sweating bullets but it worked out well.


"Don't get Scared now little Fella"

1957 Ford Custom-428-4 speed
1957 Ford Custom 300-410-4 speed


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Edd505

glass is about $500 a new seal $50 and labor to install.  Look up rope trick on YouTube

terry_208

Thanks everyone.  Some of this I remember from the body shop!  I want to paint everything before I install the front and rear glass.  Still working on the wiring before paint.
Terry