I saw a commercial on the Velocity Channel for a product called Evapo-Rust. I bought a quart at O'Reillys to skeptically try. This stuff is sold as a non-toxic, non acidic, safe to touch rust remover that uses microbes to "eat" rust. I have to say this stuff is unbeleivable, I wish I had a vat of the stuff. You can reuse it too!
Lynn,I have seen that stuff and wondered how to do big parts?I was wondering if you gould use it on a frames and spray it on with a spray bottle?
Or is it just for small parts where you must immerse and let sit?
They show how to do a frame. You buy a fountain pump, arrange plastic sheeting under the frame in such a way that it catches any runoff and drains it to a catch basin. You put the pump in the basin and connect a hose to it and then attach the hose to the frame so that you get a steady flow over the frame section you are working on for 24 hours. Rube Goldberg-ish but effective.
I could envision a spray booth enclosure for anything. Since the stuff is so "kind" (it is like water) you could make it from heavy visqueen, 2 x 4s, and PVC pipe, put it inside and let it eat!
http://www.evapo-rust.com/
Always looking for a miracle cure that can be brushed or sprayed on for areas like floor pans etc. I don't think this will work but looks good for small parts you can dip in a bucket..
well,back to the wire brush!
I have a friend that is going to be here in about 15 minutes to load up my frame on his trailer and take to the sandblaster. My friends tell me to put POR 15 on it, but is it really necessary for bare metal? They say, oh yes, it makes such a nice coating. I will probably do it, as its only a little more work, but that stuff is just for rusty metal, isn't it? And if you have to do any more welding you end up with a bonfire. Did that on my model A truck, welded on outside, had fire on inside.
What does everyone use for a top coat on the frame? Maybe this should be on a different post, so as not to hijack this one?
haven't tried it myself, but a good friend of mine buys ''bridge paint'' from an industrial paint store.
Zap- :unitedstates:
To be honest in my case,I am just going to scrub the scale and dirt away and use a good semi gloss rust paint,(I am lucky in my case,my frame is just dirty and has road scale and dirt,the frame still has black factory paint)For the amount of driving I will do when the car is finished, it will never really get dirty,meaning its not a full season daily driver.Just a nice old car.
After cleaning half the cars underside,the red factory primer is still there.
I will not take this car off the frame.I don't have the time,money,nor the energy to get into a full build of that.
This product works extremely well and I have seen the results that my pal Mark Skipper did on his 51 Vicky(the Royal Victoria) all in his 2 car shop)
The Evapo-rust stuff will be really good to use for all the small stuff.
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/frame-coater-kit.html
My Battle under the 57.Sorry to get O/T
Jeff, I am just envious about what I see on your car.... :005: my car is such a bad old heap, I tried to do whatever I could to keep the body on the frame, but now I am into it. next week it's gonna come off. I will update my rides thread then.
Guenther,I was speaking with Jay this weekend,he mentioned you may need a rad core support,if so, message me.(Again,sorry Lynn for going O/T.
Getting back to topic, I have been getting experienced with a German product called RustDelete and it is made from Citric acid and sawdust and a few other secret components. needs to be applied over night and always keep wet ( wrap with foil). thanx to the sawdust it sticks to vertical and overhead surfaces and it works well. though it will need several coats and wash offs to get rid of heavier rust. it leaves a clean surface and has a rust inhibitor in it. so the steel will stay bare metal for months. no problem with paint or the acid or whatever. can be drained in the city sewer. non hazardous. not cheap about 50$ a gallon and you will need lots of the stuff. I use it on fenders and delicate body panels, where blasting would destroy the part. works great on slightly pitted chrome parts. only removes the rust.put slightly greenish haze to the copper spots, but those can be polished later.
Jeff that is very kind of you and Jay. well yes I am in need of a lot of parts on my car but I will have to repair most of them because shipping overseas will get very costly for huge parts. I just removed the radiator core support today and will take a close look at it tomorrow. from what I have seen I might be able to repair it ( hopefully). If not I will get back to you, pm.
Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2015-03-30 12:44
Guenther,I was speaking with Jay this weekend,he mentioned you may need a rad core support,if so, message me.(Again,sorry Lynn for going O/T.
Evapo-rust is a game changer with rust. It has saved us untold hours of cleaning and polishing. We collect and restore pinball machines so I use it on their chrome legs that are usually pretty rusted. I made a sealed 3"pvc tube contraption that I soak the the legs in as soon as they "walk in" the door. The next day I just hose them off, wipe them down to dry and wax them to protect them. They look almost brand-spankin' new. I use plastic storage bins to soak larger parts and, as it was mentioned above, it is reusable. I can't believe how well this stuff works.
My local o'reilly's stopped carrying it so I buy it at harbor Freight with the 20% off coupon. SOmetimes I'm lazy and just order it with Amazon prime.
I wonder what a 50 gallon drum of evapo rust would cost.
POR-15. I'll try not to get started on that...I'm a POR-15 fanatic. I've done so many neat things with it. Is it just for rusty metal? Absolutly not, but the thing is, it is not for smooth metal, nor is it for surfaces that will get a high quality finish, like outer panels. The metal must be given a tooth for the por-15 to adhere to. A coarse sandblasting is ideal, but it can be wirebrushed or etched with zinc phosphate.
My entire frame, floorpan and the entire inside of the car was done with por-15, and trust me, it was not applied over ANY rusty metal. There are so many advantages with it, but I won't get started on that aspect...I'll be typing for hours.
Bought some tonight.
Another way for removing rust is electroysis, lots of vids on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=removing+rust+with+electrolysis
I saw an old link several years ago and the only limiting factor for size of object was the size of the container to hold it. Usually the chemicals used can be bought at a pool supply place and are quite cheap, you do need DC power however from a big charger or welder.
I've been restoring old cars for nearly 28 years now and I've seen various "rust-gone" products come & go over the years, but for me sand blasting is still the most effective way, followed by an epoxy primer. Drill mounted wire brushes (the cheap ones) just bend the tips and actually polish the rust rather than remove it. Some of the rust-convertor products work okay but don't take some paint systems over the top very well. One product I have used that does leave metal sand-blast clean is made by Bilt-Hamber (German I think) and is called De-Ox gel and has a thick consistancy, you spread it onto a panel and cover with polythene to prevent it drying out and leave it for 24 hours. When you scrape it off (it can be re-used) the metal looks like it's been blasted clean and it leaves no residue.
Quote from: Limey57 on 2015-03-31 02:44
Drill mounted wire brushes (the cheap ones) just bend the tips and actually polish the rust rather than remove it.
absolutely true, they just polish the clean metal over the rust spots, which will come up to the surface again later on. besides that the smooth surface isn't good for holding the primer. maybe we use the same German rust removal gel. Unfortunately we can hardly get over the evapo rust to Europe. I would have tried a gallon today. soaking the pinball chrome legs in the tube sounds great. there are many parts and areas on our cars to use such products.
There used to be a spindle wire brush (for drills) available that had the wires bonded in a type of soft resin so the wire tips were held at 90 degrees to the panel surface (I think it was called a mule-skinner) and they were really effective and used to scratch the surface up really well for paint adhesion. I bought a set from a swap-meet a few years back and have been looking for some more ever since.
reversible drill...once the wires get bent over, just reverse the direction and it digs in really well. you can just keep doing that til the brush is worn out.
Yep, that works but avoid the el-cheapo wire brushes as they seem to be softer than the rust and end up breaking the bristles off embedding them in your hands or any other body parts that happen to be in the firing line!
Even the good ones will throw a missile but not as much as the cheap ones. Wouldn't think of doing any wire brushing without at the very least leather gloves and a face shield.
Zap- :unitedstates:
Agree 100%, we only get one pair of eyes, we need to preserve them!
Quote from: Limey57 on 2015-03-31 15:31
Agree 100%, we only get one pair of eyes, we need to preserve them!
My daughter is an eye tech you wouldn't believe the stories she tells....
I too have used the Evap o rust and have been amazed at the results. The only bad thing about it is it will evaporate if the container you are using to soak the parts in is left open, and once it has been used a time or two it seems to diminish in strength. I used to put all of my bolts and nuts in a tumbler but since I found out about evap o rust I haven't used the tumbler at all. I did do a car hood treatment using plastic sheeting and a pump and as long as the part being treated is wet with solution it works great but is the solution dries on your part or let evaporate it leaves a thick coating like molasses on the part. Another good thing about the product is once you treat a part and the rust has been removed you have a pickled affect for weeks without that part rusting again if you do not paint or primer right away..
Great stuff..
I noticed the pickling effect too.