Evapo-Rust

lalessi1 · 2015-03-30 06:38

I saw a commercial on the Velocity Channel for a product called Evapo-Rust. I bought a quart at O'Reillys to skeptically try. This stuff is sold as a non-toxic, non acidic, safe to touch rust remover that uses microbes to "eat" rust. I have to say this stuff is unbeleivable, I wish I had a vat of the stuff. You can reuse it too!

Jeff Norwell · 2015-03-30 06:48

Lynn,I have seen that stuff and wondered how to do big parts?I was wondering if you gould use it on a frames and spray it on with a spray bottle?
Or is it just for small parts where you must immerse and let sit?

lalessi1 · 2015-03-30 07:21

They show how to do a frame. You buy a fountain pump, arrange plastic sheeting under the frame in such a way that it catches any runoff and drains it to a catch basin. You put the pump in the basin and connect a hose to it and then attach the hose to the frame so that you get a steady flow over the frame section you are working on for 24 hours. Rube Goldberg-ish but effective.

I could envision a spray booth enclosure for anything. Since the stuff is so "kind" (it is like water) you could make it from heavy visqueen, 2 x 4s, and PVC pipe, put it inside and let it eat!

hiball3985 · 2015-03-30 07:40

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

Always looking for a miracle cure that can be brushed or sprayed on for areas like floor pans etc. I don't think this will work but looks good for small parts you can dip in a bucket..

Jeff Norwell · 2015-03-30 08:30

well,back to the wire brush!

jvo · 2015-03-30 09:10

I have a friend that is going to be here in about 15 minutes to load up my frame on his trailer and take to the sandblaster. My friends tell me to put POR 15 on it, but is it really necessary for bare metal? They say, oh yes, it makes such a nice coating. I will probably do it, as its only a little more work, but that stuff is just for rusty metal, isn't it? And if you have to do any more welding you end up with a bonfire. Did that on my model A truck, welded on outside, had fire on inside.
What does everyone use for a top coat on the frame? Maybe this should be on a different post, so as not to hijack this one?

Zapato · 2015-03-30 11:17

haven't tried it myself, but a good friend of mine buys ''bridge paint'' from an industrial paint store.

Zap-

Jeff Norwell · 2015-03-30 11:37

To be honest in my case,I am just going to scrub the scale and dirt away and use a good semi gloss rust paint,(I am lucky in my case,my frame is just dirty and has road scale and dirt,the frame still has black factory paint)For the amount of driving I will do when the car is finished, it will never really get dirty,meaning its not a full season daily driver.Just a nice old car.
After cleaning half the cars underside,the red factory primer is still there.
I will not take this car off the frame.I don't have the time,money,nor the energy to get into a full build of that.
This product works extremely well and I have seen the results that my pal Mark Skipper did on his 51 Vicky(the Royal Victoria) all in his 2 car shop)
The Evapo-rust stuff will be really good to use for all the small stuff.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/frame-coater-kit.html

Jeff Norwell · 2015-03-30 12:12

My Battle under the 57.Sorry to get O/T

djfordmanjack · 2015-03-30 12:30

Jeff, I am just envious about what I see on your car....

my car is such a bad old heap, I tried to do whatever I could to keep the body on the frame, but now I am into it. next week it's gonna come off. I will update my rides thread then.

Jeff Norwell · 2015-03-30 12:44

Guenther,I was speaking with Jay this weekend,he mentioned you may need a rad core support,if so, message me.(Again,sorry Lynn for going O/T.

djfordmanjack · 2015-03-30 12:48

Getting back to topic, I have been getting experienced with a German product called RustDelete and it is made from Citric acid and sawdust and a few other secret components. needs to be applied over night and always keep wet ( wrap with foil). thanx to the sawdust it sticks to vertical and overhead surfaces and it works well. though it will need several coats and wash offs to get rid of heavier rust. it leaves a clean surface and has a rust inhibitor in it. so the steel will stay bare metal for months. no problem with paint or the acid or whatever. can be drained in the city sewer. non hazardous. not cheap about 50$ a gallon and you will need lots of the stuff. I use it on fenders and delicate body panels, where blasting would destroy the part. works great on slightly pitted chrome parts. only removes the rust.put slightly greenish haze to the copper spots, but those can be polished later.

djfordmanjack · 2015-03-30 12:51

Jeff that is very kind of you and Jay. well yes I am in need of a lot of parts on my car but I will have to repair most of them because shipping overseas will get very costly for huge parts. I just removed the radiator core support today and will take a close look at it tomorrow. from what I have seen I might be able to repair it ( hopefully). If not I will get back to you, pm.

Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2015-03-30 12:44
Guenther,I was speaking with Jay this weekend,he mentioned you may need a rad core support,if so, message me.(Again,sorry Lynn for going O/T.

MrArt2u · 2015-03-30 18:12

Evapo-rust is a game changer with rust. It has saved us untold hours of cleaning and polishing. We collect and restore pinball machines so I use it on their chrome legs that are usually pretty rusted. I made a sealed 3"pvc tube contraption that I soak the the legs in as soon as they "walk in" the door. The next day I just hose them off, wipe them down to dry and wax them to protect them. They look almost brand-spankin' new. I use plastic storage bins to soak larger parts and, as it was mentioned above, it is reusable. I can't believe how well this stuff works.

My local o'reilly's stopped carrying it so I buy it at harbor Freight with the 20% off coupon. SOmetimes I'm lazy and just order it with Amazon prime.

RICH MUISE · 2015-03-30 19:36

I wonder what a 50 gallon drum of evapo rust would cost.
POR-15. I'll try not to get started on that...I'm a POR-15 fanatic. I've done so many neat things with it. Is it just for rusty metal? Absolutly not, but the thing is, it is not for smooth metal, nor is it for surfaces that will get a high quality finish, like outer panels. The metal must be given a tooth for the por-15 to adhere to. A coarse sandblasting is ideal, but it can be wirebrushed or etched with zinc phosphate.
My entire frame, floorpan and the entire inside of the car was done with por-15, and trust me, it was not applied over ANY rusty metal. There are so many advantages with it, but I won't get started on that aspect...I'll be typing for hours.

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Evapo-Rust