The one that has to tightened by opening the door. The capture nut broke off and can't figure out how to access it to put a regular nut on the back.
The one on top by cowl broke off too, but can accessed by removing the blower motor.
Or any other tricks to fastening the fender with some adjustment built on in would be helpful.
Randy
"The one that has to tightened by opening the door."
If you are talking about the one about 1/2 way up the side panel, it is accessed by removing the inner kick panel. I'm not sure what you mean by capture nut though. The fenders have studs that protrude thru the hole and are attached with a regular type nut and washer.
If you are talking about at the top under the leading edge of the door, my car never had capture nuts there. It takes a large sheet metal screw...hard to find #14 I believe. Both sides of my car had those, so I believe it was oem. I don't think my car was ever disassembled or in an accident.
my wagon has the captured nut with bolts
On the top under the door? That's odd. I remember looking at that area surprised they were just large sheetmetal screws, and only holes big enough for those screws under the thick layer filler/seam sealer material. No square holed caged nut like on the cowl near the hood bumper stops.
Through a little homework I found out they also call them cage nuts. I also found out you can buy new ones from Fastenal.
Mine had cage nuts on the top cowl and by the windshield dogleg, no studs anywhere to attach fenders.
I'm not sure about large sheet metal screws, that just doesn't seem right.
My Ranchero just had what look like large self-tapping screws (with a hexagon head) screwed straight into a small hole as mentioned by Rich, from what I can see there's hardly any access underneath to use a cage-nut.
Mine is set up with a cage nut and the self tapping one with the hex head. Without looking I can't remember what order they are in. My guess is that the cage nut one is on the cowl and the self taping one is under the leading edge of the door.
There are four fasteners that hold the fender to the cowl. One under the hood, has a caged nut under the cowl. One under the door opening, a large hex head sheet metal screw. Center for the hinge post, access through the interior, is a stud mounted on the fender inner brace. And one under the rocker panel, has a caged nut with a slide on clip, the large rubber plug will allow access to remove the remains.
All five 57s that are here or have come through here are configured this way. The Ranchero and the wagon were San Jose cars, a 2drht was a TX car, a 2dr 300 was a MO, the Retractable I think KY. My 58 Edsel is also a Louisville car and is configured the same.
agreed
very interesting ! I always thought it was wrong, but both my Canadian built Courier Delivery and my late August 57 Del Rio have the hex head metal screws in the doglegs. did they use shims in that area ?
Yes, mine had a pile of washers under the fender on each side.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-04-09 14:58
Yes, mine had a pile of washers under the fender on each side.
Mine is the same as what Rich just said.
I also took a good look at my car today and the large sheet metal bolt with the hex head is under the leading edge of the door.
Yup, had a look at mine again and it's a hex head sheet metal screw and a stripped one at that.
Next size larger I guess.
i replaced that sheetmetal screw with a nut and bolt. i welded in a nut to the dogleg and used a regular fender bolt for more holding power
Quote from: pepfalcon on 2015-04-10 07:19
i replaced that sheetmetal screw with a nut and bolt. i welded in a nut to the dogleg and used a regular fender bolt for more holding power
Welding a nut in that spot is a great idea. Anyone doing this job should give this some thought because it is very easy to strip out that one hole in the sheet metal. .
I thought of welding in a cage nut too, but I think the factory designers used the metal screw on purpose. that bolt goes right in the channel of the sweapt pillar. it always gets wet and will cause a threaded bolt to seize. maybe it would be a good idea to use a stainless bolt. Since I am going to dissasemble the a post I might reinforce this area with a second layer of sheetmetal on the inside and keep the metal screws. this should hold up firmly.
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2015-04-11 14:15
I thought of welding in a cage nut too, but I think the factory designers used the metal screw on purpose. that bolt goes right in the channel of the sweapt pillar. it always gets wet and will cause a threaded bolt to seize. maybe it would be a good idea to use a stainless bolt. Since I am going to dissasemble the a post I might reinforce this area with a second layer of sheetmetal on the inside and keep the metal screws. this should hold up firmly.
Günter... That's a good idea too. How are you going to make it so that the two layers don't hold condensation? That could cause it to rust also.
Why not weld a stainless nut in there and use a stainless bolt?
We seem to spend a lot of time thinking about these things don't we?
RMK57 or whoever knows for sure...... I never heard the term dog leg for that part. Is that the official name or car guy talk?
Jay, since I will get access to the inside of the 'dogleg' panel, I will have it blasted and thoroughly rust proof the seam of the reinforcement sheet metal with epoxy. using all stainless hardware for this area would be a good idea, but remember to put copper anti seize on the SS threads or they might bind if fastened too quickly or tightly.
I often have heard the term dogleg used in car slang. mostly in (VW) vans where the front wheelwell ( where the drivers door is over the front wheel) has , well, the shape of the dogleg. the same with 4dr rear doors. it is a completely different area on the 57, but, well, it still has the shape of a - dogleg... :) ;)
I have no idea, that's just what I called it. Maybe windshield pillar might the correct term. The only way I can see to gain access to the dogleg area is through the kick panel. There are a couple of oblong holes punched out you maybe able access through there. Don't know about removing the dash as I didn't have to.
Also how gap should there be between the front hood edge and the filler panel? I have about 1/2' to 5/8" and if I close it up that it increases to the rear/ cowl area.
Randy
Quote from: canadian_ranchero on 2015-04-08 22:46
my wagon has the captured nut with bolts
i stand corrected mine does have the screw type bolts
My front end is just about ready for the sheetmetal now. I'll wait until the windshield is put in though. I did manage to get two caged nuts installed in the rockers. Just took a few minutes after I spent an hour trying to put them in the wrong way. I was trying to get then in with the wings to the side, trying to squeeze them with right angled needle nose pliers thru the hole in the end of the rockers. Once I figured out to put them with the wings front to back (after grinding the wing corners off so they were more triangular than rectangular) I got them both installed in literaly 3 or 4 minutes. I added rubber squeak guards to the areas that were close to touching the firewall flange.
I ended up short 2 pieces of the 5/16 clip nuts for the fender to wheelwell attachment...had to buy a bag of 25 at the local body shop supply. Oh well, only 12 bucks, and I didn't have to drive all over town trying to find a smaller package.
When I was in Phoenix last month I picked up some "hot rod door weatherstripping" made by Vintique. It's a half round, hollow, and self adhesive. I'm using that instead of the L shaped for the wheel well flange where it follows the fender contour. The stuff grips really well, not so much immediatly, but overnight the stuff really grips. I'll let you guys know how it works out, but I think it'll be just fine...and didn't have to mess with the stapeling.
BTW, I found a really good adhesive for small rubber pieces. I had bought some "liquid electrical tape" at Lowe's. I bought it not for it's intended use but to dip metal brackets I had made for the engine compartment for the battery cables. It put a nice rubber coating on the brackets just like the ones that come already done. I bought it because I couldn't find the tool handle dipping stuff they sold for years.
Anyway, I was having a hard time getting the 3m weatherstrip adhesive to grip the rubber sheeting I was using for squeak pads, so gave the "liquid elec. tape" a shot...worked great!