I have been shopping for a radiator for my 390FE powered 1957 Ranchero project. I see that US Radiator has a four row high efficiency radiator for $997.50.
I spoke to Concours Parts yesterday asking about inlet/outlet sizes and got a price from them. They quoted $699 for their high efficiency radiator.
I'm confused by the big difference in price. It seems that US Radiator is a major manufacturer supplying a lot of dealers.
It is hard to ignore the price difference.
Has anybody had any experience with the radiators from Concours Parts?
Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Jeff
Quite a few of us got our radiators from www.autocityclassic.com . They are a high efficiency aluminum radiator that mimics the OEM '57 radiator. I think they have the inlet/outlet shown wrong on their (6 cyl. ?) pics, so be sure to verify what your wanting rather than going by website image. When I got mine it was 249ish!! I have never heard of an issue with their radiators. Check our listing of vendors for contact info.
My 4.6 dohc is borderline of running too cool.
249.00 !!!!!!!!! or with shroud and fan for 299. That should add to your price confusion, lol.
I've shied away from aluminum radiators due to potential corrosion/electrolysis issues. Do you need to take any special precautions to prevent this from happening?
Do they cool as well as a copper/brass unit?
I have an aluminum radiator in my 428CJ powered 59, I bought the radiator from Auto City Classic in Minnesota. It was under 300 dollars when I bought it several years ago. Nice thing is that they made it to look very much like the factory rad. It works very well at keeping the 428 cool. The only minor modification I needed to do, was to drill new mounting holes a bit higher than the holes in the radiator side brackets, otherwise the hood would have hit the radiator cap. May not be the same situation with a 57 or 58.
Quote from: slopokpete on 2022-03-18 17:24
I've shied away from aluminum radiators due to potential corrosion/electrolysis issues. Do you need to take any special precautions to prevent this from happening?
Do they cool as well as a copper/brass unit?
J have done anything special with my aluminum radiator, water pump, or intake manifold on my 428, and have not seen any issues. The OEs have been using aluminum radiators in cars and trucks for decades. My 99 F350 still has the original radiator, working fine after 23 years.
It depends on where you get your water from. Some surface or well water can plug up or corrode aluminum pretty quick. In that case you could always use deionized or soft water from another source.
In the Northwest were lucky to have great water right out of the tap and I have never done anything but add 30% Prestone green A/F to my cooling system. My aluminum heads and intake manifold look like new inside after 46 years that I've owned it.
Also did some redrilling to lower the radiator. They are close, but can be made to fit easily.
I added a sacrificial anode to the radiator, and always use distilled water in the 50/50 mix. Put some play-dough on top of the radiator cap the first time you close the hood
My 93 F150 still had the original radiator when it was traded in in 2011. Never had and issue.
I recommend using distilled water and "green" anti freeze. Been in the 36 for years with no issues.
As far as cooling efficiency goes, larger tubes better then more tubes to a certain point.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2022-03-19 08:03
My 93 F150 still had the original radiator when it was traded in in 2011. Never had and issue.
I recommend using distilled water and "green" anti freeze. Been in the 36 for years with no issues.
As far as cooling efficiency goes, larger tubes better then more tubes to a certain point.
On both the aluminum radiator in my 59, as well as the aluminum with plastic tank rad in my Fairmont drag car, they have 2 wide (1 1/8" ?) tubes, rather than 3 smaller tubes, and, yes, they seem to both work very well. I would also have to think that the larger tubes should be less susceptible to clogging over time, than much smaller tubes.
If you measure and do the math a 2 tube actually has more surface area to dissipate the heat then a 4 tube. I've never had a 2 tube but I never go more then 3..
I've been running this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-35008 for the last 8-9 years. I did have to trim my core support to fit it in and also for a fan clutch. I live in the northwest and it never gets terribly hot here so in traffic it stays at 190-195 with no shroud and a 160 degree thermostat. I also added a stack plate trans cooler from a Ford class c motorhome. Works well, the oil after years of driving and abuse looks like new.
I've had three aftermarket aluminum radiators. One three core cheapo eBay made to fit. It bolted right in and worked better than the 60 year old OEM on a stock engine. It worked fine until crap from the 60 year old engine plugged the little cores. The other two are Griffins with 1-1/2" cores. The one was a bolt in and worked great on a 550HP engine with electric fans. The third is also two 1-1/2" but is the largest universal fit in their catalog. The core support is totally custom with shroud and 19" clutch fan cooling an 800HP+ engine. Griffins are pretty pricey but do the job.
Thank you everyone for your feed back!
I'll be on the phone with Auto City Classics Monday morning!
Jeff
:burnout:
Good choice. As Rich mentioned you may need to slot the mounting holes to move the radiator a little lower. It is pretty close to the hood.
How much lower for Auto City Rad to clear?
i can't remember the measurement, but IIRC, the bottom of the radiator is going to hit the head of the core support bolt anyway, so that will determine how much. As I previously suggested, use a glob of play-doh on top of the radiator cap, then close the hood slowly. I think mine showed about 3/16 clearance.
I had moved my radiator forward about an inch or so, so yours may not be as close, and your radiator may not hit the core support bolt. Enough of us guys have used the Auto City Classic radiator to know fitment is not a major issue, just be aware it is a close fit.
On my 59s aluminum radiator from Auto City Classic, I drilled new holes about 1/2" above the holes that were in the rad side brackets. On the bottom of the rad support, I had to grind a small portion of the core supports flange to ensure adequate clearance for the bottom tank, the amount removed was minimal. As Rich mentioned, Play Doh works great for checking for clearance between the rad cap and hood, I also used it to check for clearance for my air cleaner, piston to valves, and oil pickup screen to bottom of the oil pan.