OK, I am at wits end with the front body brace on the pass side (this time). So I have come to the conclusion that  it was installed by Ford at the factory with a slight upward angle. So much so that it sits about 1/4" higher than the tunnel and toe board. Has anyone else found this to be true?

So I have solved half of the problem-I have to replace the driver side floor because of this issue. The other half of the problem is how do I flatten it out so that I can install the floor pan and have it at the same height as the tunnel and toe board? Has anyone dealt with this? I am thinking that I will have to get the floor pan cut/shaped correctly and then install it and put a lot of weight on it so that it sits level. weld it in and then remove the weight and finish the welding. does this sound about right?

I am wondering if this is why I don't have an inner rubber mount? did they use that hole to pull down on the brace and then weld it in like I am planning on doing?



Mike

  Can you cut/slice the body mount, slope it level and re-weld?

Thought about that, not sure what that would do the structure of the brace. If I can do the weight thing I will go that route first-less cutting/welding.

Sure sounds like at some point the car was hit hard there.

  If your welding is anything like the body mounts, crossmembers, frame were originally welded you should be fine.

Hugh, that is what I thought initially. But there is no other damage to the car and everything lines up for nuts and bolts etc. I think this is correct for this car from the factory.

Quote from: 1930artdeco on 2025-05-16 12:20Hugh, that is what I thought initially. But there is no other damage to the car and everything lines up for nuts and bolts etc. I think this is correct for this car from the factory.

Yikes! I have new floors for the Fairlane...hope I am not gonna have this same issue.
I'll be paying attention. Thanks sir.

before you weld the floors in place align the front sheet metal.  I welded mine in place while on a rotisserie.  I found the front sheet metal impossible for me to align.  I finally took it to a rod shop to have things aligned.  Against my wishes and desires, the front mount, with the spring, had to be removed and lowered to get things to align.

Mike which brace or body mount are you exactly talking about? I assume it is the front one under the floorboards, approx where your heels sit. Is it possible that the og brace had a tapered shape ?
I believe they are stamped so that water will drain out towards the inner rockers.
There certainly was quite an amount of 'tolerance' around factory chassis parts and they probably had to adjust for some of it during assembly.
Also damage from jacking up, fork lifts or tow service must be expected after nearly 70 years.
if you have to adjust the mount bracket, just cut slits and weld i up again with hot amps setting. Don't worry, your welds will be as good as factory.

DJ-yep it is the one right under your heels. Them being angled to drain water would explain the angle. I am going to try it with weight first and if that doesn't work then I will try the slice and weld method.

Terry-So far I believe everything is lined up as I am doing one panel at at time and making dang sure it goes back in the way it came out. Well as best as I can with aftermarket panels. EMS is really good but not perfect. Then again the Ford factory wasn't the best at QC when it made the car after looking at the frame welds.

All of your observations mentioned above are spot on! a combination of replacement panel error, specific car history and factory quality deviation can quickly add up to a problem, where never one had been before.
That perception may be very important for you, since you may not have done such delicate body work before.
these cars are no space rockets nor hi tech. they may a need a little tweaking, good old rule of thumb work, some wire or coat hangers included, to make it work. That's why these cars are easy to fix, and we can still make it work after nearly 70 years.

.....

btw

since your floorboard and brace is out and you have good access to the bracket....don't forget a good old sledgehammer will do great jobs at times.... I know I know I know.. we are not supposed to do this to our beloved cars, and I was hesitating at first. but from that first blow ever, that worked really well....I have never stopped using brute force, when needed. haha... sometimes there is only one way to go. remember that chassis was made from steel that could be formed and was hammered into shape by hydraulic press and being welded with stick. You can do about anything with it that you want, if you can.

good advice.

I did a very quick check with the floor pan yesterday and I think putting some weight on it will bring it all down and level. I have next week off and plan to finish the toe board and inner rocker panel lip portion. And if I am luck to cut the floor pan down and drop it in. All while I am working on installing my new air compressor.