Yes, that's where it was folded and tucked in like a paper airplane!   

Dome light came in this morning so I got it installed:



Unfortunately, I think because I used the upper headliner bows (I did it for more headroom incase I ever autocrossed it and wore a helmet) that the brace is what is causing that pucker:

I've been struggling with this rug for the past two days, it came with the car. It's new and it is molded, but I'm assuming it's the same vintage as the headliner, 2018.

I had laid them out on the heated floor for 5 days after I unfolded them, but they lost their shape and were so creased, that I opted to glue them in place, as the backing was already glued to the rug which made it hold the shape of the folds. I really tried hard to make it fit; I heated the folds and placed heavy steel weights on it but wasn't happy with the fit. So, I ended up tearing it all out and cleaning the stuck backing off the floor and started over.
This was the result:






It's hard to see in the pictures, but there are "raised" areas like on the mid-rear of the tunnel that are really out of shape from being folded; basically, it isn't tapered any more.

I'm sure it will be more noticeable when I install the shifter boot.

If I don't like it, I'll probably replace it next winter as I need to stop the "bleeding" for a little while.

I am an optimist...so...
Thinking that with "use" of people getting in and out that it will "loosen up" a bit and regain some  flexibility allowing for an adjustment maybe end of summer. Maybe? 

Joe, are you going to add some dirt mats to the front floors? If you chose to cut them yourself and have the edges sewn. I am pretty sure you could figure out a shape that wants to pull the original carpet down around the transmission hump.
I guess there could be a problem with the shape of the tunnel since you added floor shift.

I always have extra floormats that I can pull out of the car, to protect the carpet.

DJ, you would think my adding a floor shift would have helped the issue as the carpet around the tunnel is too tall which actually needs to be pulled down to the shifter

oh, now I understand. I thought it was the other way around than what you actually have going on. I'd still say there is a chance it will settle some more since the trans tunnel is one of the hottest spots on the whole body. even though you have everything lined with heat/noise insulation mats.

I've been getting a few "how to" questions on some of the stuff I've been doing, so I figured I'd do a door panel tutorial. I know a lot of you guys have done these before so I'm not saying my way is the right way, it's just how I did mine.

As you can see, the old panels were junk"



....and the new panels do not come with the upper metal that hangs on the door so you have to reuse yours, so I pried the old Masonite off the metal:



...and then straightened out all the pins with a pair of pliers so they would be able to pierce into the new panels:





After that I cut off the old staples for the belt molding and cleaned it up for the new panel:



The new panel has three layers of material: one outer layer with the other two acting as padding/backing:



I used a putty knife to release the material enough to slide the metal piece in, if you notice, there are 4 alignment holes that match up with the metal piece:



Then I tucked the metal in behind the panel being sure to align the holes:



I then tapped the panel over the pins to secure it:



I added a few 3/16 rivets into the holes for add strength, but this cardboard is not very durable



Then I stretched and glued the first two layers onto the metal and trimmed them even with the edge (I didn't want a lot of buildup on the beltline as I wanted to make sure the staples would hold tight):



After that I glued the the black vinyl up and over the edge and clamped the beltline in place and started drilling the holes for the staples:



Pushed the staples through and bent them over with pliers:







This is how it looked when I was done:



After that it was just a matter of cutting out the premarked holes holes and installing the clips, placing it on the door and installing all of the hardware.

The finished product:

Appears you sorta had an idea of what you were doing! Looks great!!! 

Good job.  It looks original!  I have found studying the original, how it is assembled before taking things apart goes a long way to having a nice, finished product! 65 Bird and 58 Edsel Pacer door panels come to mind.  Both had a few hours of belly button pondering before rebuilding.....

Thanks, they don't tell you the door panels aren't complete when you buy them, nor do they give you any instructions.

Yup!

Got the other door panel done, windlace on and the covers on the shoulder harnesses.

Started on the back panels yesterday and finished them up today.



The top of the metal cap was pretty rusty, probably from the window & rain:



...so I sand blasted them before I put the panels together...



Same procedure as the front, glue and trim etc...



I also cleaned up the corner pieces, but they were pretty faded as you can see by the one on the right, so I painted them with the black interior paint I used on the seat belts:



I think they came out okay for used pieces



...and the finished product, well, semi-finished (the rear arm rests are still on back order for almost a year now)

The supervisory staff seemed to be bored.