Quote from: junior58 on 2015-11-17 01:26
The 312 in my Victoria was frozen after sitting for 35 years. Used a mix of auto trans fluid and penetrating oil (like WD40) down the spark plug holes and kept trying to turn it by hand over the course of a couple of weeks, eventually broke it free. Turned it over plenty of times by hand until it felt like it was turning freely, then drained all the gunk out of the sump, put some fresh oil and a filter on it, fresh gas and fired it up. Other than going through all the rocker gear and cleaning it all up, 7 years later it's still in there and performing like a trooper, doesn't blow any smoke and uses minimal oil. I see no need to tear it down. I hope you are as lucky as I was.

That's very encouraging! Thanks for sharing that, I'll try it.

I finally got my title in the mail today, so it's in my name all proper now.
I have also been lubing up the cylinders and the motor turns over (by hand) now about the same as the new 302 in my Cougar does so I ordered new points, condensor, cap and rotor, plugs, etc to try to get it running. I also got a new ignition switch because the old one was fried.

I also checked out the rear brakes, everything looks real good but I am going to replace the wheel cylinders and hose because it is just a good idea. I haven't pulled the front drums yet, because based on the horrible sound, I am sure the passenger side is fried. The master cylinder is also bad for sure. I will most likely put wilwood discs on the front like I did on my Cougar. That will have to wait for now.

Meanwhile the tailgate opens easily now with one hand. The daily penetrating oil and gently working it a little at a time worked great. I still need to address one of the catches that hold the glass which doesn't release at all. I am pretty sure it is broken inside there.

Hopefully this weekend or next weekend I will be able to see if it runs. 

You should definely consider replacing the single chamber master cylinder for a dual chamber unit. 2nd generation mustangs are a good swap and that casting is available with ports on either side and in any drum or disclosure combinations you can come up with.

Zap

I used a 74 Maverick non power disk/drum master on my last 57.  It has the ports on the fender side.  This 57 has a composite resevoir, from a 1987 Ranger, non power brakes.  Ports also on the fender side.  Caution, if you ever decide to use this particular master cyl, the resevoir is VERY hard to come by.  All of the auto parts brands have quit producing them, discontinued, etc.  I got mine off ebay, cost me more than the readily available new master cylinder.  It is very cool, requires no prop valve, only a T fitting.  The proportioning is built into the master, and works great with manual disk/drum combo.  Guys on the 4x4 Ranger sites tell me it also works well with the Explorer 4 wheel disk rearend swaps, but Im not sure about it as I havent done it myself, only hearsay.  There are quite a lot of those running around though...who knows?

I definitely will be going to a dual master cylinder, and probably go with the Wilwood front disc brake kit. I'd prefer to have power brakes as well, but since I'm not sure if the 312 is good yet, I'm not sure how much room I will need for a power brake booster. Maybe just going with a Maverick non-power master cylinder is a good compromise. With ports on the fender side, it probably has plenty of room for whatever motor I end up using.

I have all the tune up supplies for the original 312, and after pulling the spark plugs and oiling over a few days, and some gentle prodding, I can turn the motor over by hand. However, the car is still on blocks (and in Nevada sand) and I'm not willing to get under there to drain the oil etc. until it's on back on the ground with tires under there. Hopefully I'll find some rollers on craigslist soon.

I haven't gotten much time to work on the 57 lately, I have been trying to finish up my 67 so I can focus on the 57. However, my wife and I went on a vacation and drove down to Tombstone, AZ. So on the way through Phoenix, I stopped off at Desert Valley Auto Parts in Casa Grande hoping to find a tailgate latch assembly for the passenger side. The one in my car is missing the cam for releasing the window, maybe it is for a Ranchero. They let me walk through the yard to see if I could find the proper one, and I did. The funny part was, it was laying in the back of a Ranchero.  The replacement is corroded and a bit rusty, but appears complete. Hopefully I can put together one complete proper assembly between the one in the car and this one I just bought.

There is a Pretty amazing collection of cars there at DVAP. I took some pictures of the partially disassembled 57 wagons there for reference later. If you are in the area, I highly recommend dropping in. I didn't find any 2 door 57 wagons, but a few 4 door wagons and a few Rancheros. I wasn't looking as much at the sedans, but I did see some there as well. Very cool!

I used some Meguires medium cut then fine cut then was on the red portions of the body. It helped, and there is even a bit of reflection in there, but I couldn't get rid of the discoloration.

Tonight I changed the oil for the first time. The o,d stuff luckily looked like proper oil, not sludgey or smelling wrong. The motor turns over by hand fairly well so I am hoping to throw a battery in there and stick on a different carb, hook it up to a gas can instead of the tank, and try to start it tomorrow. I also have new plugs, cap, rotor, condensor, points and air cleaner for it. I have some almost new wires from my 302 so I will use them for the test firing.

There was a carb rebuild kit on the floor of the back seat, so I don't trust that carb at all - but since I have a few carbs from other projects, I will use one of them for the trial start.

I wonder if gravity feed will be enough for the fuel for the test start. I hope so.

I got a battery hooked up. It is an older one, but after trickle charging all night it is putting out a little over 12 volts.  The car had electricity for the first in 20+ years, headlights worked. Turn signals mostly worked. I try the starter (still no spark plugs in the motor) and the engine doesn't turn, but clearly it sounds like the starter is spinning - it's pretty noisy. If it was a chevy, I'd say it was the starter solenoid isn't kicking the starter motor in - I don't know what the equivilent is for a Y block. Is that the starter drive?

The Bendix drive is stuck... GM type solenoids also serve as the engagement mechanism...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_(engine)

Quote from: lalessi1 on 2016-03-21 19:00
GM type solenoids also serve as the engagement mechanism...

Exactly - the engagement and the relay both. But for the 312 Y-block, there is the starter motor and something referred to as a "starter drive"' so what actually does the engagement? I guess I better just pull it apart and find out.

As I understand it, the starter drive gear on a Y block starter spins into engagement with the flywheel/flexplate when the armature turns.  When the engine starts the drive gear is reversed in order to disengage the flywheel/flexplate. 

Quote from: BWhitmore on 2016-03-21 19:41
As I understand it, the starter drive gear on a Y block starter spins into engagement with the flywheel/flexplate when the armature turns.  When the engine starts the drive gear is reversed in order to disengage the flywheel/flexplate.

Thanks - that gives me a lot more to go on. I know I'll have to pull it out, but since it's parked on sand, I am not willing to jack it up and get under there until I can park it on proper concrete. Hopefully this weekend. 

I got the car moved onto the concrete part of the driveway and pulled the starter, soaked the starter drive in kerosene for a couple days (that is what the Ford manual from 57 said to do), and put it back in. I also replaced the solenoid, both the battery cables from the battery to the solenoid and solenoid to the starter, and lastly a ground strap that was on the starter to the frame.

I have been putting a little oil in the cylinders and turning over the motor by hand already over the course of a few months, so with no fuel hooked up, I hit the starter - the old girl spun over like she had been running yesterday. The water pump on the other hand is totally frozen and I am pretty sure after working with it that the fuel pump is also dead.

But when I sprayed a little starter fluid over the carb, she kicked. The old old girl wants to run!

I am pretty encouraged, I think the engine is probably okay, but I think it is time for me to pull the engine and tranny and sell them, or make my wife happy and sell the whole car.  I would prefer to have a 351, FE or a 460 - but already have an old 302 that was running when pulled and a C4 that worked great sitting in my garage.

So is anyone interested in a D code 312?

I ordered a new fuel pump this morning from rock auto.... even if I don't use the 312, I really want to hear her run. And of course, if I can get it running well as it is, I'll leave it stock and just enjoy it as it is.

If that's a '57 312, it should have a Holley 4 bbl.  Just fill the bowls with gas and it should run 30-45 seconds.  Save the cost and work of installing fuel pump.  Really shouldn't run it any longer that 30-45 seconds with no coolant in it anyway.