I've read extensively about installing the spring and the shims, retainer etc.when installing the core support, and have all the parts and pieces in place, but it just does not seem , to me, to be correct.
As it sits today, the clearance between the bottom of the radiator and the spring is 5/16" +/-. BUT, the shouldered bolt that holds all of this together has no threads showing through the nut that secures it, and that is what concerns me. I could crank on it, and tighten it to the point of getting some threads to show, but I believe the spring will be close to flat at that point.
 As I recall a bolt should have a couple of threads showing through the nut to be "correctly installed". On the other hand there is a lot of pressure , created by the spring that should keep the nut from backing off......I think!
So, please educate me as to what am I missing here and what concerns should I have regarding this bolt, spring, shims, core support installation?

 

John, I'm going from my bad memory, but that is a shoulder bolt. It is meant to be tightened down. I am assuming of course that you have the OEM bolt in there. I believe mine is installed correctly, but couldn't swear to it as I had recorded how it was installed when I disassembled it years ago, and reinstalled it the same way. I'll get a pic.
BTW, did you get my responses to your pm? Did you get your issue resolved?

A pic of mine

Thanks Rich.........Yes sir, I have the OEM shouldered bolt, three shims, the two rubber pucks etc. as per the Ford instructions. I assembled mine with the shims above the bracket and yours is assembled with the shims below the bracket. Either way is correct,per the Ford instructions here on the forum. My assumption on the location of the shims is they are installed above or below the bracket to align the fender to door gap.
The instructions also say there should be a 0.090 clearance between the radiator support spring and the upper puck.Simply put.... I don't believe  that can be achieved/maintained, if I'm going to have a couple of threads showing
To be clear, my area of concern is the lack of threads showing on the nut securing the shouldered bolt.I believe several threads should be showing.
Do I just crank on it until I get several threads exposed? Or do what?
John

The fender/door gap is most important and should be the first adjustment.  The core support shimming is secondary so shims can be added, removed or even a longer bolt.  I have parted a couple of '57s that used a castle nut on the core support bolt.

Thanks Gary. I like the idea of a longer bolt. Makes sense in my situation I also like the castle nut idea as well.
Mounting the fenders is a little ways out, but when I get there, I'll heed your advise.
John

John, look at this service bulletin...

https://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3238.0

Lynn, Thanks. I have that information and have followed it in assembling the spring, shims etc. The lack of threads showing through on the retaining nut is my concern.The top rubber puck is touching the radiator, thus the spring is compressed, but the nut that holds all of this together is still not at the end of the bolt, much less, past the end of the bolt, with some threads showing.
I'm sure my machinist buddy can lengthen the bolt, as I can come up with several ways to do it, and he always comes up with something I had not thought of.
John

"top rubber puck touching the radiator"................. If I remember correctly, the head of that bolt is a carriage bolt type head. There should be nothing above the core support's cross-member except the rounded head of that bolt. No washers, and no rubber pucks.............so not sure if what you said is what you meant to say, but that sure would explain the lack of enough bolt length.

BTW, I had forgotten about this adjustment bolt. In the near future, I will be changing the location of at least some of the shims. My front end sheet metal alignment is not as good as it use to be, and I need to push back the driver's side fender, but can't now because the lower fender is touching the rocker. Moving a few shims to the top (like yours), should help with that.

John, if I might suggest, assemble the radiator support, the inner fenders and hang the fenders to set the front center support.  The fenders are easy enough to hang and remove if the car is not painted (chips and scrapes don't hurt).  The little brackets that tie the inners to the support are critical for the spacing of the fenders and fitment of the nose piece.  There is a fair amount of adjustment of the fenders on the inners to make the door lines good.  And, while the fenders are hung and fitted get the hood fitted as well.  The inner two bolts for the hinge to the support can be set at this time.  I like to use little pilot holes to pu things back together the same way......Then blow it apart......

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2022-06-21 07:16"top rubber puck touching the radiator"................. If I remember correctly, the head of that bolt is a carriage bolt type head. There should be nothing above the cross-member except the rounded head of that bolt. No washers, and no rubber pucks.............so not sure if what you said is what you meant to say, but that sure would explain the lack of enough bolt length.

Agreed Rich, the bolt head is the only thing above the radiator support.  It had a square index under the head to set down in the square hole in the support.

I believe what John is saying is that the round puck between the spring and the core support is touching both the spring and the core support.  It appears that Rich's also touch both spring and core support.  If I'm mistaken on either, please correct me as I too will be needing this info. 

You guys are correct, I misspoke, I'm incorrect,wrong in what I described.
Just went out to the garage to take another look.
The spring, etc is installed per the service bulletin that Lynn posted.
The rubber puck is touching the bottom of the Core Support at the top of the puck and the top of the spring at the bottom of the puck.
Next are the three shims, installed below the spring and  on top of the bracket.Below the bracket there is the retainer with the two tabs, followed by a smaller puck,followed a round retainer/washer, followed by the nut. Just as the bulletin shows.
There are no threads through the nut, and the spring is compressed to the point that the top rubber puck is touching the core support on the top side of the puck and the spring on the bottom of the puck.Don't know how much more compression I can get out of the upper puck, but I guess I need to find out.
Tomorrow, I'll tighten the nut some more and see what happens to the rubber pucks and the spring.
Thanks for pointing out my incorrect description......Mea Culpa!
John

I wasn't "pointing out an incorrect description", I hopefully was pointing out a reason for what otherwise didn't make sense, lol. I had almost posted last week asking if you had a washer under the head of the bolt, so when you said the rubber puck was touching the radiator, it kinda fell into place with my thinking. Any chance you had modified the core support, or if it had been damaged in an accident squishing the bottom so that it was narrower, and thus taller? I'm also assuming you have the OEM bolt........probably a forging? The square under the head is fully seated in the core support?
There has to be an explanation we're missing.

Rich, when I'm wrong, I welcome it being pointed out,I'm not thinned skinned.
The core support is undamaged, and is a very good one. No visible rust anywhere. And yes to the OEM Bolt, and yes it is fully seated. Only the head shows.
I bought this Ranchero completely apart, so I can't tell how these parts were originally assembled. I might add, that I have several of these bolts, and they are all the exact same length. So I know that is not the issue
At this point, I think my best option is to modify the bolt to make the threaded portion longer. I have a friend with a complete machine shop at his home, and I have no doubt he can do his magic, and make it longer.
When I have it all completely assembled, I can cut off what is not needed.
Thanks to all that have replied.
John