I had to do the same, poured it down the axle tube  My 58 had a small pinion,that was in 1967 so I can't say for sure it was the original rear end.

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2023-02-17 12:56I ordered the larger seal from Autozone. Will be here in a week. Monday I need to call the guys I bought the kit from and find out if all the other stuff like the o-ring and crush thingie is usable. If not, I'll order a larger seal KIT and cancel AutoZone. I'll let you guys know what I find out.

Rich, it MAY not be considered a "proper" repair, but at the dealership, we would often replace a leaking pinion seal, without replacing the crush sleeve. We would put a paint mark on the pinion nut, threads on the pinion shaft,and the pinion yoke, then remove the yoke and replace the seal. Rather than torque the pinion nut back on during reassembly, we would thread the nut back on, to the exact same position, and stake the nut to the pinion shaft. Did quite a few this way, and never had a come back. Of course, this is dependent on you retaining the same gears, yoke, bearings, crush sleeve, etc, and being able to return the nut back to the same position.

Yup, done the same a couple of times myself.  Before removing the yoke I would measure the rotating torque with no wheels on the rear.  Changed the seal, started the nut, measured the torque every few hits with the impact wrench.  Takes a little time but never had one come apart of whine.

If I had a lift, I'd be learning to do this myself..........and may anyways. My next door neighbor just bought a commercial building for his hobbies, and is installing a lift.

Yes, a lift is certainly a nice addition, to make the old bones happier. When we were looking into buying our new house, a few years ago, a nice sized garage, with enough height and space for a lift was high on my list. After debating 2 post vs 4 post, vs scissor lift, I decided to go with a 2 post, as I do more drivetrain and suspension work, so having the underneath of the car wide open made sense. Great for swapping out al those 9" center sections!

As age creeps up (some times it really rushes) you learn "tricks" and "tools" to help with the work.  I have built racks to hold the doors when installing after paint, one to hold the 9" while changing it out and found a way to install the finished bed cover on the Ranchero without marring the finish. 

In 95 I bought this house, or should I say "I bought a shop that included a house" to keep me happy with my hobby!  My wife liked the house so all is good! Just wish it was tall enough to put in a lift!

I remember the days when I could just lift a 9" in place, not anymore. I manage with a floor jack and some wrangling

Talked to Riverside Gear this morning. They are the ones I bought the seal kit from. He told me everything else in the kit is the same..crush sleeve, o-ring, etc. I could return the kit, but no need as I'll be using everything but the seal (and big gasket).

Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2023-02-17 19:54Yup, done the same a couple of times myself.  Before removing the yoke I would measure the rotating torque with no wheels on the rear.  Changed the seal, started the nut, measured the torque every few hits with the impact wrench.  Takes a little time but never had one come apart of whine.

reading info on the Yukon website, it says it normally takes 300-400 lbs of torque to crush the sleeve. The Ford manual says to torque it to 18 inch lbs ( don't have the manual handy right now, I think that is in the correct range) needed to rotate the pinion gear. I'm thinking this is just about what you were doing, Bill. 

Went to pick up my 4 1/8 seal at Auto Zone today.......and told them to keep it. 122.90 plus tax!!!!! The world's gone crazy. I found out the YMS6930 number I posted before is "Yukon Mighty Seal" made by the people that made my trac-loc. 47ish plus ship The 6930 number is the old National Seal number. I found a different one on ebay for 14.00 delivered. I ordered it. Looks to be the same as what Autozone wanted 122. for.

Thats just crazy, I think I only paid about $15 

Lots of big pinion seals on Ebay as low as 13.50.  Prices vary greatly.

Got the pinion seal in a few days ago. It was 15.60 delivered. Looks identical to what Auto ZOne showed me for 122.00, same color coating.
I have been using Pennzoil axel oil with Motorcraft friction modifier. Nobody in town had the modifier, got it delivered from ebay as well. Looked everywhere for the Pennzoil. None of the chain supply stores or the independents had it. Found some other brands that would probably work ok, but I knew for sure the pennzoil did, so wanted to stick with that. I had to go to Ace Hardware for something else yesterday, and spotted some yellow bottles as I was walking by the auto supply aisle. Yep, Pennzoil Axel oil...LOL.
I'm still looking for someone I feel comfortable with doing the seal, in the meantime I'll just keep adding fluid as needed.

I experienced the same issue with my diff seal, the O'reilly counter person brought up the high dollar seal and I was shocked and showed him the 14.00 seal and part number I had been looking at, on line, once he entered my part number he said he could have it there the next day, so I ordered 2 to be on the safe side in case all of them went to the 120.00 price tag.  I'm glad the less expensive seal option is still available. I have a few hundred miles on the seal since replaced and no leaks.

I never did get mine installed. Hard time finding a local who has done it. I was going to try and find a shop on one of my roadtrips to other areas, but honestly forgot about it. Did you install yours yourself?

I'm pretty sure there aren't optional seals, just optional pricing, lol.