Jeff, some guys are getting a YOM plate, then using that number to get a Vanity Plate, now the car is registered with the same number as the YOM, the vanity plate goes under the seat.  Cop runs your YOM plate and the vehicle is registered.
Canadian Ingenuity.
Terry
 

Here are some older shots of when we did the 4 speed column thing.

As mentioned... I used a OD cable and supported it heavily under the dash...... no bind.
We did have to modify the reverse lever on the trans.. gave it a curve to get around the 1-2 lever.
Anyhow. using all 58 Ford 3 speed parts..I have about 150 bucks invested...

Just posting this for anyone interested... and I know a Hurst Comp plus is a 100 times better,. but...This is just a neat idea. Thanks to Jay (E-CODE) who did this on some of his FE 58 Fords...



Thanks Guys.

Jeff

Kinda cool! Innovative to say the least! Well done Jeff!!!

Excellent, well done Jeff. I knew that Jay guy was good for something

So. been a while since I have updated here(and I am sorry!)...... But things are-were- moving forward.but a few hiccups.....

The 352 was all ready to fire. all systems go. had a few small issues.. leaky fuel Ines and a dead solenoid .... but they were quickly rectified with a day or so.....
Had my buddy Terry come by(a BIG Ford Ace) and we fired the car..... awesome. fired on the first key... adjusted the timing and it purred wonderfully.
The little 352 is a 1960 T-Bird version... a 300 HP one... finally checked the numbers and as mentioned ran great.
I purchased this mystery engine from a local(kid) who in turn bought it from a man who had passed away building his 1960 bird..... so.. I was kinda nervous about the engine in the back of my mind.This "Kid" doesn't have a stellar rep... but everything seemed ok and I bought this engine.... gosh.... about 4 years ago.... a FB Marketplace deal.

But,.... it all went well.....

The next day...
So I was happy as a lark.... tidying up around the car,,,, dropped a socket to only discover a large pool of oil/fluid dripping from the rear of the engine.
My heart kinda sank..... My first reaction was a dried out rear main seal...... 
With FE'S... I have found you don't have enough room to drop the pan. engine has to be lifted.. or even better,... pulled to  get to the rear main seal......
So... after kicking the dog and yelling at my family all day...I began to start the pull... not hard.. just. time..... slow slow time.

Out she came....

So after the engine was pulled... I quickly realized.... the engine was just fine.... it wasn't the rear man seal.. and it wasn't oil.....
the rotating mass of the PP and Clutch assembly had torn into the braided lines of my Tilton Throwout bearing.....
This was completely my fault.... a real bone head move..... Upon installation(2 years ago)...I failed to install properly and did not have the secure pin in the right place..... Basically,.. the lines were not routed properly through the Bell housing fork window.
Now I understand many folks really despise Throw out bearing set ups.... but I have used them trouble free for many projects in the past and NEVER had an issue ......until now.
I would prefer mech. linkage.... just didn't have it.... and trying to find it locally .. is slim to none.

Anyhow.... the line was ordered and arrived.all back together......
so I sat there.. and then the hot rodder crept out of me..... 
In the corner I have a brand new rebuilt Pretty stout FE...... I mean the little 352 was great...... but this is better....
fully dynoed and broken in... zero miles... So..... what's a guy gonna do?

You know it.......

I literally have had no time to do the install.. hopefully this week ... I can get it in and "Maybe" get it fired and running in the next 14 days..... but.... gotta stay positive... gotta keep pushing forward...... and stay focused.

Peace.

I like where you're going with this Jeff.

Murphy...for a guy who has been dead a LONG time...can sure be a big pain in the A**! (ask Rich!)

You get things done fast, Jeff, and not that I'm wishing you ill luck, but it's kinda nice knowing I'm not the only one dealing with my own screw up.......the difference is, I'm going on 4 1/2 months, and still having issues.
Thanks for sharing, and nice selfie!

Too bad that you didn`t realize what the actual leak was before pulling the engine out, but at least that way you don`t have to mess around with the transmission crossmember to fix the hydraulic throw out bearing. I am one of those guys that is not a fan of hydraulic TO bearings, years ago, a buddy built a Cobra replica, with a 429 and a Toploader 4 speed, and he had that thing apart several times, due to leaks and other issues with his McLeod hydraulic TO bearing setup. I own 4 manual transmission vehicles, my Fairmont drag car has the factory style FOX clutch cable setup, both my 99 F350 and 2010 Ranger have hydraulic, and my 59 has factory mechanical clutch linkage, and by far, I prefer the solid feel of the mechanical linkage. In fact, when I ran 427 and 428 FE engines in the Fairmont, I made up mechanical clutch linkage for the Fairmont, and for over 20 years, it worked flawlessly.
Jeff, just curious why you removed the intake manifold when removing the engine, going to try something different, or was the a leak or other issue with the intake?

Thanks Marc!

Hugh.Yes. that Murphy is a very big PIA.

Rich,... I have been following your thread and my heart bleeds for you... Yes.. its always one step forward,4 steps back.
I have no immediate end date... but we are close.Many many guys love the build.. while I enjoy it..... a driving functioning car is where I get the most joy.... otherwise(to me) its a never ending saga and I get bored.This car is nothing but fun. and unlike my black 57 all painted and pretty.. this one is a no sweat, no anxiety build.....Time(or lack of it) is the frustrating part for me....Family and work are always first... and garage time seems get to the least amount of attention.

Rory, as I mentioned.I have used these parts(Tilton and McLeod) in previous  builds with great success.... I completely understand ones dislike for this type of application... But it was given to me free..so I used it.
I too prefer the mech. factory clutch stuff.. just didn't have it.It is what it is.
I stayed with the Factory HiPo Ford intake..... it just goes with my build.I have a Edelbrock 2x4 shiny intake.... too streetroddy for me.and..I don't like Edelbrock carbs...... I stay with Holley .Only Edelbrock carbs work with that intake(very dumb design)And a single four performs much better than a 2x4 (you know that)I am setting the look up to harken back to the early 60's.
When I initially started the 352 up... I developed a small minut pinhole at the rear china wall.... I slathered up some Right Stuff and it sealed it.... but All is good.A Side note... the intake on it now was picked up about 6 years ago for 200 bucks Canadian(That's about $160 US).....Now. with the cost increases EVERYWHERE.... I see the same intake go for $600-$900 US.
And if I wanted a factory 2X4 Ford intake.... (as you know) the costs are around $1600-$2500......Not sure if folks are paying these costs.... but I simply Can't.Combined with the fact that Joe Blow in Missouri may have a warped -ill fitting factory intake..... simply can't trust that factor.

Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2024-03-13 13:07Combined with the fact that Joe Blow in Missouri may have a warped -ill fitting factory intake..... simply can't trust that factor.

I think I ran across him at a car show here in MO one day last year! I'd not buy anything from either! LOL!!!
However...I do have a couple of still on the motor FE 4bbl intakes if you are jonesing for one. I'll be using Tri-power set-ups so they are available.