Rust converter paint

[Frankenstein57]

Thanks to Rich and James for making this happen, I'm going to be the first to jump in. I wanted to endorse these products before, but didn't know if I could. I was looking on the web for a gas tank sealer product, and I found KBS coatings, they have some excellent products. I tried the gas tank sealer kit, great stuff, easy to use, not a bunch of toxic stuff either. I tried there rust sealer, I was quite pleased. They recommend a water based rinse and an etch product called rust blast prior to coating. The first time I used it was on sandblasted parts, really flows on nice. I did try it right over rust on several test patches, covered and bonded well. I recommend smaller cans unless you are doing a large area, after putting the lids back on wet cans its difficult to get the lid off again. They just came out with a heat paint, I bought a can but have yet to try it. I thought I would paint the welds on my exhaust, and do a test patch on the headers.  Check them out, WWW.KBS COATINGS.com shipping was lightning fast.  Mark

[RICH MUISE]

The title says Rust converter paint, but in the body of the text you talked of using a rust sealer paint. There is a major diference in the two, and I'm wondering if they have both products.I'm a por 15 fanatic, but it would be nice to find something as good a little cheaper.

[Frankenstein57]

Rich, I guess you would have to view the products on the site and draw your own conclusions. I have been very pleased with everything I have tried so far. The stuff also comes in different colors. They have engine paint kits too. I know of other products similar to por 15, rust bullet, chassis saver, comes to mind. Mark

[Partsman]

Try using Saran wrap under the lids before putting them on.  The paint wil stick to the plastic and not "weld" the lid to the can.  Woks with Por 15 so should work with KB stuff

[RICH MUISE]

I talked to a vendor at the Pate swap meet who is an ex-por15 dealer. He is now a KBS dealer, claims the stuff is better.Lets hope so. I checked the kbs website, and from it's description it sounds like it is identical to por15. and not a rust converter paint (which I was glad to see)  Por 15 is a real good product, but it's always nice to see something better no matter what product you're talking about. I believe KBS is a little cheaper also, and they claim it to have a longer shelf life than por-15 and a better resistence to deterioration from uv sunlight.. I'm almost thru the rustproofing stage on this car, so I'll continue with the por-15, maybe next time I'll try the KBS.   Rich

[RICH MUISE]

second time problem with por-15 tie-coat primer....The first time I had a problem with the topcoat reacting with the tie-coat,I admittedly pushed the envelope on the 24 hour minimum cure time before topcoating and my topcoat wrinkled. I was using singlestage urethane over por-15/por-15 tie coat on my floorboards inside, and it costs me hours and hours of sanding and respraying. This time I was wanting to treat some small areas on the underside of my trunk lid in the weatherstrip area that had rusted enough to eat into the surface of the metal, but not bad enough to replace the metal. After sandblasting and cleaning, I treated the area with metal ready then por-15'd the affected area. After the por-15 cured overnight I applied the tie-coat primer over the por-15 and let it cure for 2 1/2 days outside in the sun and 95 degree heat. ( their tie coat will not cure at all under 52 degrees.) I then sprayed the entire underside of the trunk lid with epoxy primer.....and once again the areas that I had applied the tie-coat primer wrinkled and even kept the epoxy primer from curing. This is one por-15 product I won't be using again.     Rich

[shopratwoody]

Sounds to me like you're over doing it. Lots of that snake oil is
way over priced do it your self type stuff . Just clean or blast and
prime with proper type (epoxy, self etching or what ever quality
2 part u like and prep and paint. I have stuff I did 30 yrs ago
that still looks good.Any phosporic acid from any hardware store
is a good rust converter.

[JPotter57]

Agreed Ron.  I got a big 5 gallon bucket of Ospho, nasty stuff, but works great...They were throwing it out where I work, trying to get HAZMAT compliant..  I love free stuff.

[shopratwoody]

James,
I've used it for many years with diff names on the bottle (rust mort etc)
Nothing ever returned as rust if done right and cleaned well.
The roof of my Ranchero above rain drains was rusting from beach
air. Done in the 70's and never re appeared. I srayed the stuff on a
early Bronco that had been stripped and left too long before priming.
I proly wouldn't spray that much of it again. Not too healthy me thinks.
No wonder I can't breath anymore