Rewiring Options

[Frankenstein57]

Peter, sorry I forgot to answer all of your questions, the speedo bezel was quite worn so I taped off the lens area and sprayed it with chrome in a can. Not alot of options here, you can buy a  repro 57 lens, But the parts in the picture are 58. By the way if anyone has a 58 glove box door with the trim carried onto it, I am interested in that piece. Thanks, Mark

[RICH MUISE]

Peter...if you check around you'll find repops of the speedo plastic. try dennis carpenter or concours or maybe www.classicautoparts.com in ok. city. I've seen it in one of those. Glad to hear you were refering to the cluster, I just didn't want to believe you were going to pull the dash to replace a bulb.(lol)

[ptwood]

Hi again
thank you for the added details, one thing I ran into when I was poking around to figure how the dash comes off are the knobs, is there some trick or tool I need? I am not sure if they are just frozen and need a good yank or there is some trick, There are no set screws which was my 1st thought.
Let me know how you got yours off Mark.
Also do you have any suggestions on where I might get a replacement temperature gauge, the car was running hot since we got it, I had the radiator changed, still too hot, changed to a 6 blade fan, and the gauge read read very hot, well it seems the gauge may be reading incorrectly -  my radiator mechanic took temp readings in the radiator after 1/2 hr idling and it is only running at around 180 deg. They also changed temp sending unit, no affect on gauge reading. I certainly can adjust to knowing how the gauge reads but if I pull the cluster out and I can get a new one in place I believe that would be the final solution.
Thanks again for your help.

[Ford Blue blood]

pt be sure to check the output of the voltage "chopper" that feeds the instruments.  If it is high you will get high readings.  It is mounted on the back side of the cluster and looks like a small relay with two terminals on it.  It is metal with a fiber backing and mounts to the cluster with one screw.  Putting a digital VOM on it will give you a rapid on/off reading or may make the meter "blink", putting an old analog meter on it should give you about 5 V.  This little regulator feeds the gas gauge as well.

[ptwood]

Thank you.
I will be sure to do that when I get the cluster off.

[Frankenstein57]

Sometimes a little patience or reading a shop manual on the 57/ 58 , goes a long way when taking apart a dash or any other part you are not familiar with. I roughed up a 57 light switch trying to take the knob and shaft out, only to find out in the shop manual that you push a spring loaded button on top of the light switch, and the knob/ stem pulls right out. Most of the knobs are part of a cable that have a nut behind the chrome bezel, so go slow, and be carefull when you remove stuff. And if you still can't get it, your 57 ford family is here to help you. Good luck, have fun, Mark

[ptwood]

Mark
thank you, and to others that have replied to my questions many thanks- so much knowledge and help- very nice, BTW I do have the shop manual and the trim manual as well but I must have skimmed over this refernce so thanks for getting me on point and saving me a binch of head scratching.
I know have  a lot to learn and to discover on my car, but it is exciting time for me any the 57 friends here will make it a fun project rather than a torturous ordeal!!!
Stay tuned I am sure more detours may be in front of me
Peter

[canadian_ranchero]

pt be sure to check the output of the voltage "chopper" that feeds the instruments.  If it is high you will get high readings.  It is mounted on the back side of the cluster and looks like a small relay with two terminals on it.  It is metal with a fiber backing and mounts to the cluster with one screw.  Putting a digital VOM on it will give you a rapid on/off reading or may make the meter "blink", putting an old analog meter on it should give you about 5 V.  This little regulator feeds the gas gauge as well.

if the dash voltage regulater [chopper]is not working properly,the gas gauge would be reading incorrectly also.

[Ford Blue blood]

Yes it too would read high....

[ptwood]

Mark one quick question, what "chrome paint " did you use to refurb your bezels... the chrome painst I am familiar with look more silvery than chrome..
thanks

[shopratwoody]

I took my dash apart in the car. Windshield was out etc at the
time. If you remove the cluster, radio, glove box etc everything
is right there. I bought new speedo bezel, had the bezels
around the knobs rechromed. Rechromed all the stuff that I
had done in the 60's. Basically re did it like I had it in the 60's.
Painted dash while windshield was removed. It'll be much
easier once you start on it I chose to rewire mine 1 wire at a time.
Ron

[Frankenstein57]

Peter, I'm not at the shop- but the chrome in a can was most likely rustoleum or what ever was off the shelf. And I'll restate this, the only reason I did that was because I have a 58 dash, no repros available that I know of. If you have a 57 dash, bite the bullet and get the repro stuff. And on the subject of dash knobs, I believe the 57-58 wiper knob has a setscrew which I installed on the switch with my electric wiper motor setup. Mark

[Bubba]

Bros:
After talking with the folks at Ron Francis, I am having second thoughts about selecting the 24/7 panel vs. the Express panel.  The 24/7 panel has all of the circuits pre-terminated at the panel and some of the circuits already have the connectors installed.  For example, since the kit is universal in nature, they provide an alternator lead that is pre-terminated for your specified  ALT, which means you could have a coil of extra length wire or two under the hood.  Additionally, they recommend that the 24/7 only be mounted in one of two locations, left kick panel or upper left firewall.  The Express panel can be mounted anywhere. With the Express panel you have 6 fewer fused circuits 18 vs. 24 but you have the ability to run the wires from the distant device you're hooking up back to the panel then terminate at the panel. If you need the extra 6 fused circuits you could always add a supplemental fuse block and save some bucks. The Tech at RF said it [Express Panel] does make for a cleaner, neater installation. Decisions, Decisions 
The 24/7 panel is $520 for a Ford installation the Express panel is $449.
Just my $.02 worth
BuBBa

[Bubba]

Bros:
After talking with the folks at Ron Francis, I am having second thoughts about selecting the 24/7 panel vs. the Express panel.  The 24/7 panel has all of the circuits pre-terminated at the panel and some of the circuits already have the connectors installed.  For example, since the kit is universal in nature, they provide an alternator lead that is pre-terminated for your specified  ALT, which means you could have a coil of extra length wire or two under the hood.  Additionally, they recommend that the 24/7 only be mounted in one of two locations, left kick panel or upper left firewall.  The Express panel can be mounted anywhere. With the Express panel you have 6 fewer fused circuits 18 vs. 24 but you have the ability to run the wires from the distant device you're hooking up back to the panel then terminate at the panel. If you need the extra 6 fused circuits you could always add a supplemental fuse block and save some bucks. The Tech at RF said it [Express Panel] does make for a cleaner, neater installation. Decisions, Decisions 
The 24/7 panel is $520 for a Ford installation the Express panel is $449.
Just my $.02 worth
  BuBBa