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Rewiring Options

Started by Bubba, 2010-06-10 10:52

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Bubba

Bros:
I've been exploring the various options open to us as 57 Ford Fans.
Thus far, IMHO we have several options.
1. Rewire from scratch ourselves
2. Aftermarket, Ron Francis Wire Work appears to be an excellent options with kits for 57 Fords.
3. Restoration, Narraganset Restorations of RI makes a complete wiring harness for 57 Ford restoration which can be modified by them to accommodate different drive train combinations, for example FE engine installations.  Their total package encompasses 21 separate correct color coded harnesses, cost is $1, 581.99 which includes S&H and Insurance.  Yes you can buy it a harness at a time.
I would encourage others who've used other aftermarket modern rewiring kits to post their comments as well.  I am getting ready to order the Ron Francis  kit and will post comments and Pics as the installation progresses.
BuBBa

Ford Blue blood

I have installed several RF kits and they are outstanding in every respect.  The directions are fool proof, he warranties the kits and has an outstanding tech line.  There are less expensive kits out there and they are good, just the RF is configured to run from the end user (head lights for example) back to the panel or not.  Others have the wires fastened to the panel and can provide confusion to the rookie.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

tarheel57

Bubba,you will be very happy with the Ron Francis kit.I have used his kits in the last two projects that i have done.If you can read you can wire your car with his kit,very good directions and pictures to go by,and a great help line to walk you thru if you come across something your not sure on.They are a couple other kits out there for a little less money,but for the money i would go with the Ron Francis.Also all of his wireing is labed every foot,which will be real handy in the future if you have problems and have to trace something down.My custom 300 i am building will defintely have a Ron Francis in it, Tarheel 57    :unitedstates:

RICH MUISE

Coincedentally I just received my Ron Francis catalog in the mail yesterday...There's like a whole tech manual packed with tips in this catalog.I'm looking forward to finding a few hours to sit down and read it. Bubba, which kit did you deceide on? I'm going with their access 24/7.   Rich
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Bubba

Rich, Tarheel, Blue Blood:
Yes I am definitely going with the 24/7 kit.
I've already ordered the RF Grounding Kit and will put that in in a few days if I can escape the Dreaded Honey Do's.  Over the years I 've used a couple of RF kits and I too think they are the best. Blue Blood is also right on, I like the feature of being able to "Back Wire" from the end user to the main panel.
Their Tech Support is really excellent. While we're on topic does anyone know what size hole the ignition switch uses?  Its a piece of info I've got to include in the order and the car is at my Bro's place right now.  Also trying to decide which steering column and length?? to go with [Flaming river, Idit]. Pretty much decided on an internally regulated 3 wire alternator from Powermaster Performance, RF reccommends that brand, although I am tempted to use the heavy duty TransPo  911-02R external regulator I have which allows you to up the voltage via a potentiometer from inside the car.
BuBBa

ptwood

Hello
I just purchased a 57 Fairlane 500 2 DR (63A body), 292 engine - I have now discovered one of the wires (ignition related) coming from the firewall into the motor compartment was fried and insulation was burned off.. it was covered by tape so I did not see it immediately. The car still starts and runs etc.
I am a rookie here, but I am a pretty good DIY guy - but now I am looking for any guidance from those in this forum with a lot more experience in restorations to see if I should attempt installing a new dash wire harness.. I am inclined to go that way since then I know eveything is new, is this a major undertaking.. days, weeks??, does the dash have to come completely off or can it be done from underdash.. Should I just repair the damaged wire?
I am reading your comments about RH kits (I contacted him for feedback on which harness) and they sound like the way to go.. I am not looking to add any new items so I plan to use the same systems as exist now..if I read correctly these RH kits start in engine compartment (from end-user ie headlights etc) and go back into the car.... am I correct?
If anyone can give me their comments on what I am considering to do here it will be very much appreicated.
Thanks
Peter

RICH MUISE

wiring my car is somethingI haven't done yet and still need to bone up on the process, but I can answer a few of your questions.
First off, since your previous post was about aluminum radiators, I'm assuming your not restoring the car back to original, which would require a restoration kit as Bubba talked about a few posts up. That's good, because it will save you money and give you a lot more options.
secondly, no your dash won't have to come off
thirdly, I'm not sure who the RH you were refering to is. I'll assume you meant RF(Ron Francis).I've never heard a negative about them. They offer 4 different series of harnesses. Some are prewired at the fuse panel with all of the wires attached. You locate the panel where you want it and start feeding the identified wiring to it's end use. Other systems they offer do not have the wiring preattached, so you start at the user and work your way back to the fuse panel and attach it ( not sure why you work backwards..may be obvious when you start to do it. I'm guessing it's easier to make a neat instalation this way).
There is not a huge difference in pricing on these different panels they offer, I'd suggest choosing one that will give you options available down the road if you change your mind on what you want to do to your car. I also suggest calling for a catalog from Ron Francis..I had mine in a few days and it is loaded with info to help you with your decision.
One suggestion Ron Francis makes that I thought was really good was wiring your car yourself rather than having someone do it for you . It will gain you familiarity with your vehicle which will help down the road is locating problems that might arise.
Rich
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ptwood

Thank you Rich for the info, that gives me some added confidence, RF as you properly corrected my typo mentions using an alternator, this car came with a generator, is a change advisable, what benefits will I have.. I did see Concours offers a drop in kit using existing brackets.. can you comment on ease of this install?
Thanks again I already see a great benefit will be had from this forum!
Peter

RICH MUISE

Two ways to look at generator vs. alternator. As some guys have said on other posts, the generator has done it's job well for a gazillion years and they can be rebuilt locally almost anywhere still inexpensively. At the other end of the spectrum, the whole world changed to alternators 50+ years ago because they are more effecient. A generator will not recharge a dead battery at idle speed...an alt. will and can produce much higher amperage. Any tech stuff, such as what else will need to be changed will be better answered by some of the other guys, like Ford Blue Blood, who are really knowledgible with the electric stuff.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ptwood

Hi Rich
thanks again.
I think for the moment I will stay with the generator.. however I understand the potential on alternator options..
...since you have been so helpful can you tell me if there are any tricks to getting the dash removed.. I know I don't need to do it for the rewire, but I have found some bulbs that need to be replaced.. I see several screws above the dash just over the speedometer (of course mine are all missing??) so any guidance to help a newbee in remving my dash will be appreciated. I have the service manual and I have not found any details for the dash removal.
Thanks again

RICH MUISE

#10
I'm beginning to think you are using the term "dash" to mean the speedo/gage cluster and not actually the full dashboard.   ???   If that is the case, it has been years since I pulled mine out...I'll have to dig into my boxes of parts I'm not reusing and take a look at the cluster. I'll get back to you on it.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Frankenstein57

The dash comes out fairly easy, under the inside windshield trim is a row of screws -5/16 socket, save these for last. Up by the kick panels ( Top ) there is  a small angle bracket on both sides that you need to unbolt. You also need to unbolt the steering column up above your knees. Should come out, you also need to remove the defroster duct. If your stuff is finish painted, be very carefull-have a helper. There is two screws, one each side just after the 90 degree bend by the doors. I put my dash up on the bench, checked all the wiring, bulbs, switches ect. Check it out, I posted a link to it. The guy who painted it had some runs in the clear, the car is black, interior black, to much black, so I painted it gold to match the gold inlay on the side chrome. Mark


http://img15.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=1094093.jpg

RICH MUISE

If it is the cluster only that you are looking to pull out, in addition to the two screws that you found to be missing, there should be 4 nuts that have to be removed from up under the dash, (but if you can reach these you can also reach the sockets that hold the bulbs alot easier imho.) photo is back side of cluster I just took so you can see what you'll be feeling for. It's my guess as I mentioned, that the 4 studs you see along the bottom go thru the dash and are what holds it on.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ptwood

Thanks Guys
very useful
I think I know what I am looking for  - Rich the cluster is what I was referring to for my immediate situation but Marks help on full dash and pictures may be very helpful later on..
BTW...nice dash Mark paint job looks great, mine is red but also was not done that well so I am thinking of a redo.... question about the 2 chrome surround frames - (where the knobs are for lights, wiper etc) they look very nice - all chrome plated, mine are painted on inside and just have chrome on outer most part of rectangle frame, did you redo yours? How?, do they come out from the back, I like the all chrome look, the painted interior area on mine is scratched, peeling must be from fingers and constant use...also my plastic speedo dial like the one you have laying on desk is worn and needs help, did you buy a new plastic dialor repaint silver?, same with the the chrome decoration is that your paint work to have it looking so new, 
I appreciate your help.
Peter

Frankenstein57

Peter, I had several dashboards and alot of parts to draw from. So I tried to pick a common color in the light bar area, then I removed the chrome trim pieces and cleaned them with a SOS pad, worked pretty well. If you look at the bottom of the picture, I have a matching 58 speedo bezell, I was blowing the dust off of it with an air gun, not holding on tightly enough- it shot out of my hands and broke the corner off.  :dumbass::deadhorse: I have since glued it back together, but I since have bought another on ebay. Mark