Reconditioned 312 starting problems

[outcruisen]

Hi all... Having issues starting my newly reconditioned 312 y block... (read as driving me nuts).. Anyway, I am using the James Eickman book that states... "The firing order, which was also cast on the intake manifold, was 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2. Crankshaft rotation viewed from the front was clockwise"..

Now, I have tried this but viewed from the front my rotor button runs in a counter clockwise direction (Is this because I am in the souther hemisphere LOL).. So have I done some thing wrong, or is the book a little misleading.. Also I am running a standard 4 barrel intake that has no firing order cast in it!!!!

The starter (Which has just been completely reconditioned also) seems to crank a dozen or so times, gets a little slow, then seems to jerk backwards locking it up against the flywheel. If you release the 3 bolts and shake the starter motor it dislodges, then lets you crank it again.. This part of the rebuild has taken me 4 weeks and 2 different starter motors, 2 starter solinoids and all new battery and earth cables.. To no avail..

Starting to wear a little thin now.. Anyone have any ideas? (PS I have taken the rocker cover off, made sure we are on the compression stroke with both valves closed and set number 1 post on the distributor cap..  I didnt want to look like a dumb ass and ask a stupid question without exploring all things I know first)...

Once again, any suggestions..

Cheers From Down Under (Melbourne Australia)..

[Ford Blue blood]

First make sure you are on #1, pull the valve cover and watch the valves to be 100% sure.  Put it on TDC.  Put a meter or light on the points to ensure they just open with the rotor button on the #1 spot, this should be done turning the distributor housing CW.  Check each wire to ensure they are the correct firing order.  Should run CCW looking at the top of the distributor cap.  If all checks out you should make noise!

[drof75]

The rotation is counter-clock wise.

Buz

[Ford Blue blood]

Yes it is but to set the intial timing he will need to turn the distributor CW as the rotor will not turn because you have the engine on TDC and want to leave it there until the plug wires and points are proper.  Turning the distributor CW simulates the rotor turning CCW and the points need to open to get a spark.  I have put many an engine on 8 BTDC, used a meter to set the timing (open the points) and found to have right at 10 BTDC when running.

[outcruisen]

Will try then let you know... Thanking you

[Hoosier Hurricane]

Outcruisen:

A couple things come to mind.  Y front dampers are known to slip, so that the timing marks can get way off and TDC isn't where the damper says it is.  Secondly, if you used the Eickman book to install your timing gears and chain, the cam is out of time.  The picture in the book is wrong.

John

[JPotter57]

John, how many pins are supposed to be between the marks?  I have heard that the Eickman book is wrong, and had heard a couple numbers before, but can't remember. 

[canadian_ranchero]

John, how many pins are supposed to be between the marks?  I have heard that the Eickman book is wrong, and had heard a couple numbers before, but can't remember. 

my ford repair book says 12 pins between the timing marks

[Hoosier Hurricane]

James:

The timing marks have to point to the left (oil filter) side of the engine.  The picture in the Eickman book shows them on the right.

John

[57tudor]

Hi Guys.
This should shed some light on the timing chain configuration. This is from my 1961 to 69 Chilton's manual. The right lower pic is for the Y-Blocks
Rick.
57 Tudor

[outcruisen]

Gave up.. Sorry guys but just couldnt do it anymore as nothing I tried worked.. Taking it to a local Y block specialist to see if he can work out what the problem is.. Once he is done its going straight to paint.. Might see it finished this side of the decade at this stage.. If I am lucky!!!!