Capillary Type Heater Control Valve B7A-18502-B

[Bubba]

Bros:
Help me out here!
Just tore down my heater and the capillary type heater regulator valve is RUBAR! [Rusted Beyond Repair]
Called many of the delaers and found only one used valve for $250.00+.
Seems high to me.
anyone out there have one that's in good shape for sale?
BuBBa

[RICH MUISE]

Bubba,don't know where whatever I had in mine is..I'll look for it...do you have a pic or are the pn's stamped on the valve? I think from what other guys have posted in the past there is a number of different ones...which heating system is in your car? Also..have you checked out the plastic/nylon heater valve @ www.harbor-innovations.com ? I have no idea if it'll work..just ran across it this morning...maybe something to look into... supose to be a non-rust solution for the metal ones. $65 w/ instal. kit   oops. should have read more before I posted. This is a totally manually operated valve..not what you want.

[Bubba]

Rich:
They're very easy to spot!
the B7A-18502-A is vacuum operated and actually has a place on the valve to connect a vacuum line, this is by far [or so I am told] the most common type and the one that is most readily available through the various parts vendors.  The B7A-18502-B is cable actuated from the dash heater panel and has a distinctive capillary tube attached to it.  It is not as common as the vacuum operated type "A", [lucky me.]  My 63A was made in the Norfolk, VA plant in April of 07 perhaps all of the cars that came out of that plant had the capillary style heater valves?
I will get my Bride to take some digital pics tonight and pass them on to Potter to be posted on the site.
How is that incredible ride of yours coming along?  We should be dropping the 428 CJ in mine once the headers get back from being ceramic thermal coated, not period correct for a 60's car but I like the look and heat elimination from under the hood.
Be Well My Friend
BuBBa

[RICH MUISE]

bubba...this weekendI'll rumage thru my many boxes of 57 parts not being used and see if I can find it..I took it apart so long ago I don't remember what it looked like, but I am pretty sure it was cable operated so that's a good start anyway.
Your rides going to be awesome with a 428cj, and I also like the look of the coated headers. Mine is coming along at it's usual pace...slow. After 4 years all the major body components finally complete and ready for paint..this week I've been searching the shelves for any small components I may have missed, and sandblasting, priming etc. In a week or two I'll get back on my interior and redo stuff I wasn't happy with on the first go around, and the stuff I never got to. My list of stuff I need to finish the car is short enough to fit on one page now...the problem is the ones left are almost all high dollar..gotta start saving.

[Bubba]

Rich:
I found a vendor in New York who does show quality finish work on ceramic coating and is less expensive than the guys who advertise in the Hot Rod magazines.  Headers will go uip there next week.
I am also negotiating with a neighbor who has an OEM FE three deuce set up that was completely gone over and rebuilt, he wants high $$$ for it but we're talking and making progress  .  The tranny [did I already mention that??} will be a top loader 4 speed. 
Thought about bucket seats, but finding period correct [late 50's to 60's] "STOUGH" that looks right isn't an easy task.  Aslo recently found a shop that does reasonably priced powder coating.  Had several pieces done for $175.00 not bad at all.
Have a great weekend my freind.
BuBBa

[Ford Blue blood]

Bubba try 61 - 63 T-bird and 64 -66 T-bird buckets.  They are more available then the 62 - 67 Galaxie and have been much less expensive.  I have 63 Bird seats for my Ranchero and they "lok right" (IMHO).  They are a couple of inches too tall but that is no problem.

[RICH MUISE]

One nice thing about the Galaxie seats though is the upholstery kits that are readily available for them....Don't know about the t-bird seats, maybe they're available too. Let's see what was this post originally about

[suede57ford]

I used a 67 mustang heater core, Napa 660-3100, napa cable controled water valve, Napa 660-1141, and longer cable, Napa 731-1112.

I mounted the new heater core in th eoriginal box, had to opend up the firewall hole just a little with the die grinder, sealled it with butyle tape, mounted the cable operated water valve right inside ther RH fender well, and exchanged the stock short control cable with the long aftermarket cable.

It now works as good as a stock one, I don't have to mess with that factory or repo stuff, that I was having to maintain every year before the conversion.  Best of all, everything is easy to get at the local parts store, and cheap.

It was worth the effort to convert it over, as I no longer have had problems.   I also converted my '57 T-bird to this as well.

The reason I know the part numbers is my youngest brother is doing the conversion on his daily driver ranch wagon next weekend and I already dug out all the numbers.

[RICH MUISE]

Bubba...forgot to get back to you..sorry about that. I've started lookin but haven't found it yet. Where I put it may have depended on where it is mounted on the car, and I took the car apart so long ago I don't remember where I took it off from. So, where is it located on the car?...inside near the heater or engine compartment? I vaguely remember a manual heater hose shut off valve so I'm thinking maybe someone in the past bypassed an inoperative original valve.
I like pat's conversion..sounds like the way to go if your not going vintage air,etc. and just want to rebuild an original type setup...but more expense if you're just trying to relace a faulty valve.

[Bubba]

Rich:
The vlave is located inside of the heater core housing, inside of the car on the passenger side up against the firewall.  It has a long coiled copper capillary tube, and has one of the heater manual control cables attached to it.  It rests right up against the heater core, additionally there is a small rubber gasket where it mates to the heater core to allow coolant to flow from the heater core through the valve.
Ford didn't have a better idea on this one 
BuBBA

[RICH MUISE]

Inside the heater core housing...no wonder I don't remember seeing it. I'll check later tonight to see if it's still there. My guess is that manual valve I was talking about was a work-around a non-operative valve.  Rich

[RICH MUISE]

Bubba...sorry mine is diferent. I have the plain-jane dealer installed heater. No valves attached. The inlet tube runs thru the firewall straight to the heater core,with the outlet tube right next to it also running thru the firewall,with no valves at all. The only cable that attaches to my heater is for the open/shut door on the blower case. As I mentioned above, the only way you could shut water from circulating thru the heater was a valve attached to the water pump for the heater inlet rubber hose. Now I'm curious if all dealer installed heaters were set up this way.   Rich

[Bubba]

Rich:
I was able to locate the valve.
One of the Technical Assistance Gents at Carpenter's went the extra mile for me and went through their stock of NOS parts and found one! The price was amazingly reasonable particularly for an NOS part.
Thanks for all your help.
BTW the way are you using an aftermarket steering column in your ride?
If so, what length did you order?
BuBBa

[RICH MUISE]

Bubba...no..I've got that '97 mustang column.

[Southside Johnny]

Rich, Would you mind posting a picture of the control valve mount/orientation you referred to in the post below?  I'm in the same position with my Skyliner and an image would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
John


I used a 67 mustang heater core, Napa 660-3100, napa cable controled water valve, Napa 660-1141, and longer cable, Napa 731-1112.

I mounted the new heater core in th eoriginal box, had to opend up the firewall hole just a little with the die grinder, sealled it with butyle tape, mounted the cable operated water valve right inside ther RH fender well, and exchanged the stock short control cable with the long aftermarket cable.

It now works as good as a stock one, I don't have to mess with that factory or repo stuff, that I was having to maintain every year before the conversion.  Best of all, everything is easy to get at the local parts store, and cheap.

It was worth the effort to convert it over, as I no longer have had problems.   I also converted my '57 T-bird to this as well.

The reason I know the part numbers is my youngest brother is doing the conversion on his daily driver ranch wagon next weekend and I already dug out all the numbers.
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