need wiring help

[RICH MUISE]

LOL..last year I remember somebody making a reference to "some guys can't wire a trailer hitch with an Indian guide"...well, here I am!!
I'm wiring my aftermarket electric windows as far as the in-door wiring, and the wiring kit I bought had the traditional double switch for the drivers door, and the single switch for the passenger door. I will be installing just the double switch on the center console, so need to change the harness to eliminate the single switch. I'm not sure how to do it. (They are 5 post switches). Logic tells me the passenger side of the double switch should be wired so that it is the same way as the drivers side of the double switch (running off the green and black rather than 2 whites) since there will no longer be a motor being switched from 2 locations. Is that correct?
This is the original schematic:

not sure why, but you have to click on the file below to open it.

[Ford Blue blood]

Rich if I am reading the schematic correctly you should have continuity on the switch between terminals 5 & 4 and 2 & 1 with the switch in the rest position.  When you rock the switch in either direction (for discusion rock it to the 1 side) it should open the 2 & 1 terminalts and connect 1 & 3.  I need you to verify that with a meter or continuity light.  If that is the case on the single switch simply remove the #3 wire and tape it up, or cut it as far back as possible, then cut and tie (solder/crimp/twist) the conductors together on the 5 & 4 wires and do the same with the 2 & 1 wires.

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks Bill..I'll check out the switches with a continuity tester later today. I should have explained...the "harness" I have is a bunch of individual wires just wire-tied together with connectors on the ends to plug into the switches...they are not soldered so I can just eliminate what I don't need or shorten and jump between the two switches in the double housing.
In fact, I guess you can just think of it as the double switch, and how do I wire it to my window motors. I'll let you know about which posts are open or closed in the different positions.
Thanks again,Rich

[RICH MUISE]

Bill...I guess if I can wire an entire house from the main box in, I'll someday, by the time I'm finished with rewiring my '57, know how you figured out the open/closed positions on the switches, but you were correct.
The new scan is how I'm guessing the wiring should work. Is this correct?
Also, I'm curious..the original schematic with the wiring harness shows the power coming thru a 25 amp fuse. The wiring harness was done with 16ga wire, and the 16ga wire I bought at autozone to do the in-door portion of the harness (Pic will explain that) has the wire rated at 15 amp max on the packaging. If that's the case shouldn't the harness be of heavier wire or the fuse at 15 amps?
The pic shows some spring loaded wireless door jamb contacts which eliminate having to run the wires thru looms...I really like the way they are made...solid one-piece brass from the contact area all the way to the back where the wires connect. That design means no contact should be lost as they wear. That explains the "in-door" wiring I was talking about. I'm trying to complete my door assemblies, and I was wanting to keep the color coding on the in-door wiring the same as the color coding on the wiring leading up to it, which is why I needed to know now which wires I would be using when I got to that point. Thanks Again

Rich

[Ford Blue blood]

Rich it is done with PFM     Yes your rewire is correct.

I have used those contacts in the door jams on two cars I built.  They work fine as long as you don't bundle the wire tightly and put a big (2 - 3") loop in the wire to let the springs in the contact work as they should.

16 ga stranded with carry more current then a solid conductor will.  Current actually flows on the outside surface of the conductor so a stand of twisted multi conductors will carry more current the a similarly sized solid core.  House hold wiring 12 ga is good for 20 amps per code yet a fuse link in early charge systems used a 6 or 8" piece of 16 ga stranded spliced into the 10 ga alt output designed to handle 75 amps without burning up. If it were me I would start with a 15 amp slow blow fuse and work up it that will not carry the load.

Not sure where the 15 came from on the wire pack, 16 will carry a butt load more with no problem.  The power seat motor in my T-Bird is wired with 16 ga from the factory and has a 20 amp fuse in the circuit.....

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks again Bill...you 'da man! Good tip on the wire loop behind the contacts.  Rich

[RICH MUISE]

BTW...good point on the current travelling on the wires. Like many people, for years I always assumed current traveled in wires, rather than on. It never made sense to me why house wiring books always told you to to be carefull not to scratch the wires when you were twisting then at connections until one book I read made that point about current traveling on wires has to "jump" scratches, causing heat buildup.  Rich