morfing a 58 custom into a 57 custom 300

[57 imposter]

I did the gas strut mod. to my hood hinges and they are giving me some trouble..I installed my hood and am getting a gap between the hood and the fender right about where the hinge arm mounts to the hood. I disconnected the struts and the hood lays flat. was wondering if anyone else has seen the same thing. I will say that I am missing some of the inner structure towards the windshield end of the hood that was removed for louvers and suspect that to be the culprit. I know that the way the struts are installed in the hinge that they are applying full force to open the hood at all times. I am going to mount two longer struts like you would use for a toneau cover so they are applying no upward force when the hood is closed. hopefully that will correct my problem I am really just trying to verify my concerns about the missing inner structure and that no one with a non modified hood is having any issues. The old girl goes back to the body shop next week to complete the body work on the rear sheet metal modifications and the whole thing should be in feather fill when it comes back..

[RICH MUISE]

As soon as I can get some help at my house, I will know..... At least my hood will be temporarily on, but no fenders, so I won't have anything to compare/align with. I'm just doing it so I can make sure I have no issues with the radiator height/location or core support

[RICH MUISE]

Got my hood mounted tonight. No fenders, so not too much I can adjust, but one thing is obvious......the new lifts are just about perfect. The hood is  balanced to the point that it'll almost stay wherever you leave it, including down, but just a little finger to lift it!!
Later I'll go out and check my radiator...the whole reason for getting the hood on first.
Doug..the "gap" you mentioned near the hood hinges...I'm assuming you're not talking about the seam between the fender and hood, but the height of the hood, so the hinge is causing the hood to bulge there?
I checked my radiator height, and although my oversize moon radiator cap has got to go, a standard cap fits with about 1/4" clearance....at least where the hinges are adjusted now.
That's really good, as the forward position of the radiator can stay as is!!Speaking of hinge adjustment, where does the side to side adjustment come in? It looks like the only adjustment in the 4 mounting bolts on each hinge is only vertically. Is it in the core support boly, so that the whole assembly is moved to the left or right? The end of my hood is about 1/4" total difference from lining up with the recess in the cowl for the vent cover...so 1/8 off center.

[RICH MUISE]

Doug....I'm inclined to think you have another problem. Back when we were going back and forth on the lift mounting, I mentioned several times that the critical concern is that the bottom mounting points were low enough to allow the hood to get to it's lowest (closed) position before the lift bottomed out. Is it posible your lift has bottomed out on it's travel before the hood is down all the way? Another indication of this would be if your buldge isn't showing up until the final few inches of closure.

[Ford Blue blood]

It looks like the only adjustment in the 4 mounting bolts on each hinge is only vertically. Is it in the core support boly, so that the whole assembly is moved to the left or right? The end of my hood is about 1/4" total difference from lining up with the recess in the cowl for the vent cover...so 1/8 off center.

You should be able to shift the core support over just a touch.  But is the gap on the rear edge of the hood even with the cowl all the way or is there a little change in gap?  If it is "square" give firmly shoving on the raised hood in the direction you need to move a try.  Use even pressure on the hood near the hinge mounting points.  You will find the hinges are very soft side to side.  This is kinda like the 2 X 4 in the door to make the top and bottom line up right.

The next biggie is going to be the fenders.  The mounting "gap" on the core support may need to be adjusted up or down.  The door to fender gap is determinded by the height of the core support.  It's up or down location has little effect of the hood fit against the cowl.  Use a couple of layers of tape on both fender and door, I like to start buy getting the mid cowl nut on first then go down to the bottom bolt.  Set the gap even from the center of the door/fender gap to the rocker bolt and tighten it down very snug.  The fender should now be hanging loosely with the top under the door bolt and the cowl bolt loose.  All the fender/inner fender bolts along the top should be in loose as well as the nose (three on each side of it).  Put the other fender on using the same sequence.  With just one fender on the assembly will tilt to that side a little.  Now stand back and look.  There is enough flex in the fenders that if the core support is too low or too high the top of the cowl bolt will be under stress and the gap at the top of the door and around the cowl will be off.  Gently add or remove spacing at the support to get the gaps even.  Line up the fenders at the nose and tighten.  Now try to close the hood and look at gaps.  If all is well tighten all down and check hood fit again.  Lastly install and tighten the two fender/inner fender bolts at the rear of the wheel well and the inner/cowl bolt.

Sorry so long and a thread hijack, hope it goes well!

[RICH MUISE]

Not too long at all. I and others have asked in the past, but I think that's the first reply I've seen that is actually a step by step guide! Thanks. I'm going to print it off so I can have it in the shed. The gap at the cowl is pretty even, I think about as squared up as posible...just off center.

[Lgcustom]

Pushing the hood at the side as suggested to center it is the factory way it was done.
Be careful and have fun!

[RICH MUISE]

Did it this morning...worked quite well. Thanks.

[RICH MUISE]

I'm going to post other questions I have on the front end assembly on my build thread....I guess we've went off subject on  Doug's thread enough.

[57 imposter]

actually what i did was to disconnect the gas shocks and loose the hinge to core support bolts, adjusted the hood to hinge bolts to align the hood between the fenders. then adjusted the hinge to core support to get the gap across the nose correct. everything worked fine. reconnected the gas shocks and the gap between the hood and fender was off just as before so it is the pressure of the stocks that is raising the hood and causing the gap. I have ball mounts coming from Strut your Stuff and am going to mount two longer struts like I would with a Toneau cover and see if they work better for me. I already have two 24" struts so it will be a fairly cheap experiment. Again I suspect my issues are related to the missing framework and the rest of you may never have the problem i am having.

[RICH MUISE]

I'm curious...does your's take alot of effort to close because of the lighter hood?

[57 imposter]

Rich    Not really because I went with lighter struts. Cant remember what pressure they are  but will be taking them out either this afternoon or tomorrow and ill let you know.

[RICH MUISE]

I was still thinking about your distortion problem...light pressure to close once again is telling me the strut may be bottoming out...hate to keep harping on it, but it's the only thing that makes sense, unless some under support was removed in the hinge mount area as well.

[57 imposter]

Rich     On the initial installation, the struts did bottom out so we moved the bottom mounting hole down to correct that problem. I just finished taking the struts out and the hood lays down like it should.. I really believe the problem is the result of removing the center portion of the inner structure for louvers. all of the inner structure at the hinge end is intact and the perimeter bracing is all there just the inner portion on the windshield end is gone but overall i think it makes the hood slightly more flexible, even tho we installed a 1 inch square tube up the center of the hood where the inner structure was removed.  I have and am going to install some 24 inch struts to lift the hood from the windshield end so they shouldn't apply any upward pressure when closed. I really don't think that a stock hood would have the same problem. The good news, I guess is that I have available the complete set up for anyone wanting to convert their hinges. I have two gas struts with your choice of 120 or 130# pressures. with the top heim joints with the 6mm bolts. The bottom mount is made out of aluminum round stock with brass oilless bushings and 3/8 shoulder bolts with lock nuts. Ill sell the whole set up for whatever McMaster-Carr gets for two struts and heim joints. 

[KYBlueOval]

I'm interested. I'll send you a P.M.
John