dash electrical

[geraldchainsaw]

ok, let me run my problem by u,  maybe soimeone has had the same thing happen and maybe not,   when i first got the car i set it up with under dash gages, now i want to go to stock,.    the temp gage,   i set up 1 just to c if it was working, so i grounded it and ran a hot line to hot) straight to the batt,  fried the gage,   lesson learned,   now  the hook up on the dash where every thing is gas gage speedmeter lites turn signals etc,   according to the skematic the TEMP gage has a ground and hot wire to a what i think is a down sizer resistor, (right or wrong?,  right now i don't care what the gage says as far a temp goes, just want to get it to work,   anyone know what i'm tyalking about?,   what r your thoughts?,    THANKS       

[fomocochoptop]

There has to be a wire that from the Voltage regulator to the gauge and a wire from the temparture sending unit on the engine block.
The voltage regulator gets power from the Ignition switch. I will

[geraldchainsaw]

did u finish the msg?

[fomocochoptop]

Sorry about that. i was going to say i will check to see if i can find photos of the BACKSIDE OF AN INSTRUMENT CLUSTER

[Ford Blue blood]

The gauge is wired 12V to regulator (little rectangular device with two terminals), about 5V out to the gas gauge and temp gauge, second terminal on the temp gauge runs to the temp sender and the temp sender is a variable resistor that is grounded to the engine by simply screwing it in place.

[geraldchainsaw]

to (ford blue blood),   r u referring to the retangular device on the back of the instrument panel that knocks the v's down?,     i was looking at a skematic for the dash  wiring & it l;ooks like i can take the 1 wire from the temp gage and run it with the wire from the gas gage to the retangular device your talking about, i just bought a dash unit on ebay, when that gets here and i change the odometer i'll work on some of the wires and c what happens, thanks for the info

[JimNolan]

Chainsaw,
    Don't mistake the small voltage regulator fastened to the back of the instrument panel as a voltage dividing resister. It actually oscellates to produce an actual DC pulsed frequency at about 5-6 volts.
Jim

[Ford Blue blood]

Gerald, that is correct.  One wire from the temp and gas gauge to the regulator.  The other wire on the gauge goes to the sender unit. 
Jim is correct, the regulator is not a simple resistor, early regulators were actually bi-metalic strips with contacts that opened and closed as they heated and cooled, probably still are, haven't cut a newer one open.....

[robhaerr]

Gents...

My temp gauge is not hooked to read the temp of the engine, I have a separate aftermarket gauge.

Since the temp gauge and fuel gauge share the instrument voltage regulator, will this cause the gas gauge to not function?


Thanks...
Rob

[VwDrvFnd]

I do not have my factory temp guage hooked up, gas guage seems to work, atleast it shows a reading when the car is on and then back down when its off.

Gents...

My temp gauge is not hooked to read the temp of the engine, I have a separate aftermarket gauge.

Since the temp gauge and fuel gauge share the instrument voltage regulator, will this cause the gas gauge to not function?


Thanks...
Rob

[hiball3985]

Temp gauge unhooked shouldn't have any effect on the gas gauge.

[robhaerr]

Thanks guys...

I must have a ground issue.

How would I know if the gas tank is grounded on a 57 wagon?

I am not electrically inclined. Just got my speedometer overhauled and the guys said my gauge and sending unit were fine and that I needed a new instrument voltage regulator. Now it acts differently but not working properly.

Not uncommon from what I have read while searching this and other forums.

Rob

[hiball3985]

Rob,
The tank just grounds against the frame. Usually if the voltage regulator goes bad it will peg the gauge at full. You can reach up from underneath and disconnect the wire from the sending unit and ground it, gauge should go to full. Fluctuating sometimes is cause by a float that is partially filled with gas. The old brass floats are two pieces soldered together and this new crap gas with Ethanol eats up solder and causes them to leak. Just a few thoughts.