Power steering pump for 302 and S&T Fabrication r&p unit?

[robhaerr]

Hey Guys...

Does this look like what I should be getting to go on a 302 to work with the S&T Fabrications rack and pinion unit?

http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/catalog/P_S_Pump_Upgrade_SBF_289_302_351W-p-1422.html

Thanks for your input!

Rob

[robhaerr]

JEGS also has it for a bit le$$...

http://www.jegs.com/i/Borgeson/153/800330/10002/-1?CT=999

So does Summit...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRG-800330/

I like working with Summit.

Rob

[Frankenstein57]

Rob, that pump is based off the GM pump. Ford actually incorporated this pump on some models to replace their noisy one. If you are using a fairly stock pulley system on your 302, this should work. You may want to research it a bit to see if it will fit your year engine. I had a post bookmarked awhile ago, where they were retrofitting a gm pump onto a bronco, smallblock. They used mostly junkyard stuff, I think it was on my old computer.I used to go on a windsor web site, can't remember the name. There was alot of info on it, try a search of 5.0 sites. Mark

[robhaerr]

Thanks Mark.

I think I saw that post you are referring to when I was looking around the 'net yesterday.

I am confident that one of these will work. The guy doing the engine swap/rack & pinion install for me can make a bracket if needed (Bobby Walden, www.waldenspeedshop.com )

I am thinking he will order the one from Summit, but not sure yet. Looks like that bracket will mount off of the water pump. I am not into searching junkyards at this point, so willing to pay a tad more for a new one...but budget is running out!

Rob

[gasman826]

I've seen this question all over the place.  Hasn't anyone asked the manufacturer for tech support?  They supplied the rack.  I would think they would be the ones to recommend the pump.

[robhaerr]

I have sent S&T Fabrications an email...awaiting a reply...

Rob

[robhaerr]

Here is the response I got back from an email I sen to John at S&T Fabrications...

"Rob- any of the ford pumps will work the only issues I have heard were that some of the rebuilt pumps didn't have enough pressure they seem to be pumps from the chain stores like auto zone if you have any more questions please let me know- John"

[gasman826]

Great answer!!  Pleased to see you get prompt support from the vendor.  I am surprised and pleased with the range of pumps that will work.  Take heed for the warning.  This is not a place to cheap out.  Power steering pumps take a lot of abuse and are usually neglected.  I'm not saying to throw money at it but get at least a OEM.  A little cooler isn't a bad idea.  Since I have a manual transmission, I run the PS fluid through the automatic trans cooler in the radiator.

[robhaerr]

After driving this set-up for a while, the power steering is very "fast". Feels like you could over-correct real easy on the freeway.

Bobby Walden, who installed the unit, said that getting the pressure toned-down would be a good idea after he drove it.

I ordered a kit by Borgeson to drop the pressure in the GM-style power steering pump I used. The pump gives about 1350 psi and the steering is very fast, twitchy...especially at freeway speed. I believe that the ST Fabrications r&p unit likes about 950 psi...correct? Here is the kit I bought from Summit...another cheap adjustment...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-899001

I am also hoping that the high pressure of the pump doesn't do any damage to seals on the R&P unit.

Here is a funky video on how to reduce the pressure with this kit...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5JNE5kRsGs

Anyone else done this?

Happy New Year...
Rob

[KidKourier]

 Rob,  I don't think that will work as your rack is a chevy cavalier not a mustang II.I'm running the same rack in my courier with the stock ford eaton pump that puts out 700/900 psi and I also have the same quick and twitchy feeling in the steering! If I remember right it's 3 1/4 turns lock to lock.I looked it up in the online catalog at Napa and they list two racks---one is the quick ratio one that John's using in his kit, the other is exactly the same but a standard ratio(more turns lock to lock-slower turning) I believe late 80's to mid 90's for production and runs about $100.This is what I was thinking of trying to curb that twitchy/light feeling.You might run this by John or Bobby on their thoughts on this change?Also,who did your frontend alignment and do you have the specs they used.Tell me their responses to the rack switch. KID

[robhaerr]

Hey Kid...

I won't be changing the rack, but since this Saginaw pump I have squirts out around 1350 psi...I am also concerned about blowing the seals.

I'll see what happens when I reduce the pressure with this kit. I am somewhat used to the fast steering, so it doesn't bother me very much. My wife's Infiniti G35 is also very quick, but it doesn't feel like I would over-correct like on the 'wagon.

Thanks for the heads-up! I sent the guys at ST Fabrication an email...stay tuned.

This is the shop that did my alignment and adjusted the rack unit...Mike did the work...
http://www.autoandrvspecialists.com

...I see hot rods in there pretty regularly when I drive by. I do not know what specs they used. The also did a nice job aligning and changing ball joints on my motorhome (26.5' Lazy Daze Class C).

Rob

[gasman826]

I used a re-manufactured Cavalier rack with a '75 Lincoln power steering pump.  This is the hydraulic power brake booster system.  The pump and brake booster are Saginaw as well as the rack.  Having the same concerns, I called the re-man company, Cardone.  I talked with a very helpful engineer.  He looked up flow and pressure requirements for all three components and confirmed them to be a match.  He said the old Saginaw 'ham bone' pumps work off 1250 psi +/-.  I trusted his input and have been pleased, satisfied and a little impressed with the drivability and performance of not only the steering but braking as well.  If you are using a Saginaw rack, maybe consider the Saginaw pump (pre metric)
As far as alignment, modern shops with experience in street rods are fully aware of preferred setups.  The car should be set up with as much positive caster as possible with near zero or less camber and very little toe in.  The more positive caster the better the car 'holds the road' at higher speeds.  Positive caster also has a tendency to dull the responce or reduce 'twitchy'.  With the wider tires, they should be set as flat to the road a possible with the zero camber.  With modern tire design and less rolling resistance along with fewer moving parts (rack and pinion), toe in can be closer to zero than the original spec.