Brake light switch

[Wirenut]

Can any of you recommend a retrofit brake light switch I can adapt to my brake pedal. I upgraded to disc brakes and a dual brake reservoir but need some advise from some of you that may have already done this.. Any advise will be appreciated...  I scanned some of the brake post discussions but have not found that as a topic.Thanks

[Ford Blue blood]

If you do not have a true "dual" master cylinder, you can tell if it has two pistons or just one by looking at the under side and look for a set screw or a pin, you need to have the distribution block as a safety issue.

You can use the current brake light switch in one of the ports for the front brakes on that block.  Run a single line from the other front brake port to a "T" to supply both front disc.  Been running this set up in my street rod since 1983 and over 100K miles with no issues.

[Wirenut]

Thanks for the info. I do have the distribution valve installed. I am leaning on a swich on the pedal. I have been researching and may have found on application that will work. I had not thought about the way you set yours up and it will give me more options.. I appreciate the feed back..

[Hoosier Hurricane]

The T-Bird parts suppliers have a kit to put a pedal switch on early Birds, and the similarity between Bird and '57 pedal arrangements makes me think they will work on passenger cars.  John

[Frankenstein57]

I had mine on an adjustable proportioning valve, I changed to a proportioning valve I bought from CPP, there wasn't a port on the new valve. So I plumbed in a tee off the front line like Bill did. Found the fittings at autozone, works good.  Mark

[shopratwoody]

Welded a bracket on steering column brace and used tri five Chevy elec switch.

[62galxe]

This is on my unibody. Used banjo fittings from pure choice motorsports and drilled and tapped for the switch. It gets pretty thin when you drill it but ive had no issues with it.

[rmk57]

I used one from a Granada if I remember could be a Mustang. Took out the shouldered bolt from the brake pedal to master cylinder rod. Dropped in the switch, ran the two green wires from the old master to the new switch. Fits and works perfectly.

[gasman826]

X2 on rmk57's setup except mine came from a Lincoln.  This switch is also compatible with OEM cruise.

[Wirenut]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. Damn you guys are creative. I appreciate the ideas..

[cool57]

X2 on rmk57's setup except mine came from a Lincoln.  This switch is also compatible with OEM cruise.

Got pics?

[gasman826]

Got pics?

[/quote
Fresh




The pedals and support are '57.  The support is untouched in the middle for the pedal attachment.  Both ends are highly modified to support a Saginaw hydraulic power booster with duel master.  The other end is modified to bolt into the '65 Thunderbird dash.  The switch goes on the standard master cylinder rod pin.  It activates with less pressure than the '57 OEM hydraulic switch and is not in elements.  These switches were used on nearly every Ford in the '70s and early '80s.  The clutch pedal was modified to activate the master cylinder for the hydraulic throwout bearing.

[hogwagon]

If you decide on a hydraulic pressure switch go to any aftermarket Harley shop and get one for a bike. Mid 90's softail is a easy application for the counter guy. Accell brand is fine and since the rear brake is a disc it does not take much pressure to activate. All my junk is a cross between a semi and a Harley

[gasman826]

Yep, a few Harley parts in mine...brake and clutch stuff.

[RICH MUISE]

RMK57/Gasman:I'm trying to figure out how the switch is activated, since I now have one of these puppies in my hand. I'm gonna guess it's got something to do with the little dimple on the open slot side of the switch locating it on the pin,and is what locates the position of the switch when it is installed with the master cylinder rod?....if I had a seventies ford to look at it would answer the question, but I don't.
Rich