garage heat

[RICH MUISE]

I was curious what you guys are doing for garage heat. This summer I replaced the combe heat/air window unit I was using because neither was doing an adequate job....air was about 15,000 btu and heat was about12,000. The new unit is just air, 25,000 btu and is much better, although I only got to use it twice before I started my house rebuilding project. Right now I'm running just two electric space heaters which help, but no where near adequate. Once the temp is up to a workable level though, I think they'll be fine. What I'm trying to fiqure out is how to get the temp up quickly so I don't have to leave the space heaters running all night if I want to work out there the next morning. In years past kerosene heaters were popular, but I sure don't like the idea of $45 for a 5 gallon can. Has anyone used those units that screw on top of a propane tank?
I have a full size central heat furnace (gas) not being used that I had thought about running a gas line to, but I'm not real keen on having a gas unit with a pilot light in the garage with all the solvent and paint fumes I frequently have. I know I could just shut the pilot off, but then I'm forgetful.
I've been looking for a used motel type heat/air unit I have a hunch might solve the problem, but no luck finding a used motel equiptment business so far.

[wv 57s forever]

      I have a reznor hanging heater, works very well,but it has a pilot that is a gas guzzler, so i have to turn it off when not in use. My older brother had a regular house furnace that had electronic ignition, it worked very well.

[Ford Blue blood]

I just use an electric heater to keep the paint from freezing.  Mine is a block building with an insulated attic, really cheap aluminum framed windows and I just insulated the overhead door.  The little heater has kept it right at 50 during the below freezing times but does suck up the power!  I have a wall gas radiant heater that has no gas to it yet (round tuit project!), just haven't done enough winter work with all the travel and wife's medical issues and having worked full time until a couple of years ago to justify doing that.  Might change as I get older, right now I do OK in the 50 degree space with just a long sleeved shirt and an insulated vest.

[Zapato]

I'd shy away from kerosene tends to rust everything. Not to mention it just flat out stinks up the place. Be my last choice.

Zap-

[RICH MUISE]

One of my summer projects for the past 3 years was going to add insulation to the "garage"..never got it done, so it's like trying to keep a tent warm.
Zap...stinky and pricey..you're right. Kerosene is not under consideration. I'm still thinking a used motel unit would be ideal.
Rich

[gasman826]

With the price of fuel, insulation is the better money spent.  You can fight Mother Nature all you want but you will lose.  Heating or air conditioning the outside is a losing proposition.  When I rebuilt the barn, I lined the exterior walls with 8'x24'x6" Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs).  With insulating value of R-24 and no air infiltration (air leaks) and no windows, the sidewalls are very efficient.  Before pouring the concrete floor, I put down 4" blue board (High density foam) and ran 4" of blue board from the inside footers up to the sill plate.  The board under the concrete acts as a heat sink to keep from trying to heat the earth.  The board from the sill to the footer acts much the same way be keeping the frost from getting under the floor.  The ceiling in insulated with a layer of blue board and 14" of fiberglass insulation.  I heat and air condition year round.  The air conditioner is an old manufactured home self contained unit has a couple of 12" flex tubes running through the wall.  The heating system (which is very important in Michigan) is gas fired radiant tubes that hang from the ceiling.  Radiant heat heats the objects that it contacts.  So the entire concrete floor heats up and in turn makes me feel warm.  Without the heat sink under the floor, it would be like heating your garage with the door open...just not affordable.  The radiant tube heaters are the most efficient, cheapest to install and easiest to install (very do it yourself).  Pilotless (electronic ignition) and can be plumbed to burn exterior air (does not burn warm air from the shop which could contain combustable fumes).  The shop is comfortable, the metal and tools are up to temperature, no moisture damage, and the paints are ready to use.  The shop is 32x44x16 and I fill the LP tank once a year.  About $800.00.

[Limey57]

Thermal underwear, thick socks, boots and the occasional welding spark down your neck.  Never got round to installing heating but as it seems to be cold and damp here all year round I guess I've just got used to it!

[57 Ford Kustom]

Rich,
   Gasman is right, radiant heat is the best garage heat, but because your garage is existing, try a infared heater, they are simple to install, quick heating, and economical.
Thanks,
Tim

[Jeff Norwell]

Mine came installed with a Hot Dawg nat. gas unit... works very well.

[Frankenstein57]

I've been in the HVAC business all my life, I've seen some scary stuff rigged up to stay warm. First off, I'll say that I never liked torpedo heaters, way to fumy. Emergency heat only. As far as heat choice, the difference between what Gary needs, versus Rich is huge. In the North you will run the heat at least 1/2 the year. Not sure how many months Rich, you run the heat. If its in the budget, for the south you could get away with a good PTAC sleeve unit , like you see in a hotel.Make sure the wiring is good. Around $1000 to $1300, installed yourself. But like Gary said, insulation/windows is key.Home furnaces work great, just opt for a sealed combustion unit. Infloor is optimum for the north, more costs upfront. My shop is in the lower level of an 1800's barn, I have a Carrier Oil furnace with a new heat exchanger I got for nothing. In 23 years I only bought oil once, I get random pump outs on gas conversion jobs. I presently have over 600 gallons of oil, should last a few years. Four years ago I got some 4" styrafoam panels and did the ceiling, what a huge difference. By all means be safe, use good solid venting, buy a co detector!   Mark

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks for all the input guys. Around here we have very little time where nothing is needed...It varies of course cause we're talkin' mother Nature, but about 4 or5 months of needing heat.

[Frankenstein57]

A couple more things, a supplier told me after March they are phasing out 80% chimney vented furnaces. I suppose its a nation wide thing, so if you need one for your home, shop, or rental property now would be the time. Also, the radiant tube heaters, if you do alot of spraying or metal fab, ventilate the dirt. When the reflective covers get dirty it cuts the effective heat way down.  Mark

[JPotter57]

I live in south Mississippi...I need year round AC down here...

[wv 57s forever]

only wish i had that problem.

[57 Ford Kustom]

Wv,
   I'll second that LOL!
Tim