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70D Back tray

Started by Ecode70D, 2013-01-09 18:00

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Ecode70D

 Jpotter57
     I started out this project with the same thoughts as you.  I bought a piece of 3/4" marine plywood and was going to cover it with carpet or rubber rug material. I placed the original on the plywood traced it and it out.  Well it was not that simple.  When I put the plywood in place,  it did not conform to the back of the floor where it rolls up.  That's when I decided to use is as a buck instead  and hammer the sheet metal around it.  This gave me a piece of steel that gently rolled up in the back to conform to the roll in the floor. In the back on that upward roll of the floor, it is held to the floor with sheet metal screws.  The front and middle has brackets /spacers to keep it up off the floor to about the top of the drive shaft tunnel.

    If I had to do it again I would  make some changes.  I would make it about 2" narrower.  The actual 70D cardboard side panels sit on the right and left edge of the tray in two channels. I made them also, and you can see them in the pictures. The 70D side cardboard  do not go all the way down to the floor.  It is a bear to get this all lined up with the rear inside garnish molding.  I was lucky because I had original cardboard as patterns.

    Maybe this is an easier way to say it.  If I had to do it again,
       1        I would make it out of steel
       2        The tray would be about 2" narrower
       3        The cardboard side panels would go all the way to the floor and not stop on top of the tray in a chanel. 
       4         No one will ever notice the change if the tray is snug against the side of cardboard instead of on top of it.
       5         If someone gets in into trouble, I would be happy to explain this on the phone.
   
     Notice in the picture of an original pan that the back rolls up just a little to conform to the upward curve of the floor.

JPotter57

Do you have a pic of the back where it rolls up?  A friend of mine had one of the 70D cars, but it's been a long time since he sold it, and I cant remember a lot of the details about it.
1957 Ford Custom 427 2x4 4 spd
Old, loud, and fast.

Ecode70D

Pictures behind seat area.
 
    The screws that I used to attach the side panels are incorrect and temporary.   I have to take my side panels off after the car is painted so that I can attach the clips for my quarter panel stainless.  The correct items are push in buttons.  There is a tendency to scratch the cardboard when removing the push in buttons.  That's why I used the temporary screws
.
    The screws are correct for the very back panel in the middle.

     So they used two methods to attach the back panels.
     

Ecode70D

Try again for back pics

Ecode70D

One of these should be a picture of the lower brace that I made. 

Ecode70D

Quote from: JPotter57 on 2013-01-09 18:05
Do you have a pic of the back where it rolls up?  A friend of mine had one of the 70D cars, but it's been a long time since he sold it, and I cant remember a lot of the details about it.

JPotter57
I hope that one of these show the slight upward roll.
Jay

Ecode70D

This one from the bottom of the pan shows the roll. 

JPotter57

I see it now, that makes sense.  How did you form the ribs in the tray?  Heat?  Were the ribs cut into the buck, then hammered into place with a mandrel?
1957 Ford Custom 427 2x4 4 spd
Old, loud, and fast.

Ecode70D


"I see it now, that makes sense.  How did you form the ribs in the tray?  Heat?  Were the ribs cut into the buck, then hammered into place with a mandrel?"


I was going to use a bead roller, but I didn't even bother with them when I noticed that it was nice and stiff after I cut out and finished off the rounded front edge..  Now the rubber lays flat when it is glued on the top of the tray.

When the sides and the front are bent over.  I used a B tank plumber's bottle to scribe out the rounded front corners. ( A large coffee can is too small in diameter)  Then I cut it out and welded a strip of metal around the rounded edge and ground it out. No filler was added.  It looks like it was bent that way. 

Zapato

wondering what a stripped down rear seat frame looks like and wether it would make a suitable starting point? And provide the corners?

Zap- :unitedstates:
Zapato

Cruise low and slow.......Nam class of '72

Ecode70D


   ''wondering what a stripped down rear seat frame looks like and wether it would make a suitable starting point? And provide the corners?''

Zap
     That's not going to work out for you with your grandchildren.  I'll send you an email as soon as my server gets me signed back in again for email.

      My passsword does not work anymore for some strange reason.
Jay     


             

Ecode70D

#11
These are pictures of the back tray buck.
     A-B      Front to back                       31 3/4"
     C-D     Left to right at notch  (Front)  60 1/8"
     E-F      Left to right  under side cardboard side panel      61 5/16"
     G-H     Left to right (back)  under cardboard side panel   60 3/4"
     
      On mine the front and side vertical lip is                        . 971  or about 31/32"
      The horizontal lip that folds under off the vertical lip  is   .686   or about 11/16"
       These are important because they help to keep it from buckling/oil canning.

If someone is planning on making one  for a custom without the 70D cardboard side panels, it will be a little narrower.
       The measurements  will be about...
       E-F     Next to cardboard side panel  60 1/8"
       G-H    Next to cardboard side panel  60 3/4"

Ecode70D

#12

It would be a good idea to make a cardboard or panel board template and fit it to the car before making the steel tray.
Don't forget to keep enough metal on the left and right sides and in front  so you can fold it down 1"  and fold it in 1/2". 
This is for strength to keep it from buckling.

JA

JPotter57

Jay, Would you be willing to trace a template onto butcher paper or something and mail it to me?  I would pay for the paper and the postage of course, plus some for your time.  If you would be willing to do that, just let me know, and I will get some green headed your way.  If not, I understand, it is kind of a hassle.

Looking at it again, I see that you have dimensions there, I should be able to get a buck made off those...Let me see what I can do...
1957 Ford Custom 427 2x4 4 spd
Old, loud, and fast.

JPotter57

By the way, this is one of the coolest tech threads I have seen yet...This is a very rare part, that this member may help a lot of guys reproduce, and look good doing it...Thanks a ton, Jay..
1957 Ford Custom 427 2x4 4 spd
Old, loud, and fast.