Replacing upper control arm bolts

[RICH MUISE]

Actually not replacing, just turning them around so the nut is on the inside. Is there any way to get this done with the control arms/springs/spindles are all assembled as they should be?
Can I get enough downward pressure with a c-clamp on top of the upper control arm shaft to get the bolts out one at a time? I'm really hoping I don't have to drop the spindles.
I need to get those turned around as they will interfere with the 4.6 exhaust manifolds.

[RICH MUISE]

Hey Rich, you dumb s#@%,...wasn't that you who just a few days gave someone else the advise of using threaded rod to compress the spring to assemble the control arms?? Just do the same thing here to take the spring pressure off the top control arm. Man, I worry about you.

[RICH MUISE]

Yep, that was me. I'll try that, thanks.

[wildhog]

Rich has finally lost it. He is answering his own posts!!!!

[Ford Blue blood]

 

[BWhitmore]

I do that all the time, it helps to ensure that at least one person agrees with me.

[Tom S]

Compress the spring?  It doesn't push against the upper control arm, just the lower one & the frame.

[ROKuberski]

Rich, I would hate to be the guy that does the front end alignment on your car.  He's going have something to say about your parentage. 

I just completed installation of upper/lower control arm bushings/ball joints and tie rod ends.  Quite a task, but it's done.  I've got my alignment done too and I was surprised to see that the data for the car was in their computer already.  They had a system that I haven't seen before.  All done with lasers shooting down to reflectors mounted on the wheels.  One added bonus was that I used to hear a clunk when I hit a bump.  Now with all good rubber everywhere, this noise is gone.  I was considering replacing the body to frame insulators, but now, I don't think that needs to be on my list of things to do.

Rich

[Slimjim652]

ROKuberski,

Did you buy a kit to replace the front end or did you buy the items separately. If you got a kit where did you get it from.

[RICH MUISE]

Compress the spring?  It doesn't push against the upper control arm, just the lower one & the frame.

With no weight on the front end, there is nothing to keep the spring from pushing the lower control arm until it reaches it's limits...which is the spindle connected to the upper control arm until the upper control arm is pulled to it's limit. With no weight on the car (clip, engine, tranny,), the coil spring is pulling down on the upper control arm thru the spindle.
I didn't really have to compress the spring much..once the bars on the threaded rod contacted the control arm, I just compressed about 1/2 or so. After that, I loosened the castle nut on the upper control arm and popped it loose. No problem
Rich...I am assuming your alignment comment was because the nuts for the upper control arm bolts are no longer easily accesible?

[ROKuberski]

ROKuberski,

Did you buy a kit to replace the front end or did you buy the items separately. If you got a kit where did you get it from.

I bought a kit from a guy advertising on eBay.  Unless you need the upper control arm shafts, individual parts are cheaper from Concours, the upper shafts list for $150 each.  Unless you have a lot of rust or damage, you likely won't need them.

I want to sell the 4 lower control arm bushings and 4 anti-sway bar rubber bushings (I already had these) and I will throw in my upper control arm shafts, see "parts for sale."  If you want the kit, I will look up the guy I got it from for you.  I paid about $338 for the kit, shipping included. 

Rich

[Tom S]

With no weight on the front end ...

Oh, sure, bring that up!    
What? Ya ain't got two or three real big fat buddies to sit on the front end for a few minutes?  Hell, a couple 300 pounders ought to do it.   
   

[Slimjim652]

ROKuberski,

  I think I'm going to do the whole kit to replace everything including the bushing, inner and outer tie rods, and ball joints.  I was looking at the deluxe kit through Kanter adding the inner tie rods and new wheel bearings.  I think this maybe the kit you purchased from ebay,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190855977608&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en   

Not sure if anyone had input on the Kanter products before spending all the time and money.   

[ROKuberski]

I emailed the guy that I bought my kit from.  He told me that his kit was put together by Kanter.  Same stuff.  I tried to get a "special kit" without the parts that I already had.  He told me that he got his kits complete and could not take stuff out.  The parts all look fine.  Go for it.

The service manual leaves a little to be desired on reassembly of the springs.  You can stuff the spring into the upper pocket and hang it on the edge of the lower spring pocket, but you cannot "just jack it back into position."  I took a 4' length of 1-1/2" pipe and stuffed it into the cross member hole that is right where it needs to be for this task.  Put one hook in the end of the pipe and one end on the lower edge of the lower control arm.  You can then pull the lower arm up to about a 45 degree angle.  Then you can jack the lower arm up to proper position.  At first, I had the nut on the lower ball joint finger tight, but I could not get the upper ball joint stud far enough into the top hole to put the nut on it.  I could not jack anymore because I had already lifted that side of the car off of the jack stand.  However, you can loosen the nut on the lower ball joint to where you still have a full nut on the threads and that gave me enough to get the nut started on the upper ball joint.  Hey, if it was easy, anyone could do this.

As I mentioned, if you don't need the upper control arm shaft, individual parts from Concours may still be the cheapest way to go.

Rich