electrical systems...my choice

[RICH MUISE]

Kenny asked this in the 4.6 install thread, I've moved it to here bacause the reply is gonna get lengthy.
"Rich what are you planning to use for power distribution in your conversion?  The 57 has  a very basic system and with electric fuel pumps, ac etc all needing power I was curious what you Re planning.  I am doing a 302 swap and the selection of fuse boxes etc is almost overwhelming.  Thought maybe you have the filed narrowed down!"

First, let me start by saying of the many things I know too little about, automotive electrics is right at the top of the list. It took a ton of research to get me going in the right direction, but at this point, I'm 100% sure I made the correct choice based on my build and my requirements.
To start, electric systems imho should be the one place in your build you don't go the budget route. I was fortunate in that the company that had the best options was also the company with the highest quality... Ron Francis wiring. I didn't want to be the guy that spent 10 years building a car then watch it go up in flames because a made in China wire wasn't heat or abrasion resistant.
When I was looking for what I needed, before I had made the final decision on the drivetrain, the choices came down to Painless or Ron Francis. Like so many aftermarket companies, Painless was topheavy on GM products. Ron Francis also carries the GM stuff, but they have Ford components no one else is offering. I was using a late 90's Mustang steering column, and RF was able to supply me with an Express wiring kit that had the Ford connectors prewired for the ignition switch and the multifunction switch. Their Express kits are (or can be)made to order to suit the application. Because each Express kit is unique, it has a serial number that is used by their tech department should you call with questions.
Additionally, Ron Francis was the only one who offered an EFI management harness specifically for my engine/tranny. Once again, RF on top with FORD stuff!! (Mine should be on the way any day now.)
Ron Francis uses the best grade wire on the market, even better than Painless. Their components are top of the line. Example..I had bought door dome light switches years ago from a distributor. They wouldn't stay together! I replaced them with RF switches that were made obviously so much better.
continued...

[RICH MUISE]

part2.....
There are different types of wiring harnesses that have different approaches to installation. When I was first looking at Ron Francis, I was intrigued with their 24/7 harness. It was bigger, had more options, etc., but the first question an RF tech asked me eliminated that choice for me. "Is you car pretty much stock, or modified?" The 24/7 panel comes with all the wires pre attached at the panel at one end and many of the connectors on the other end . That would be a great choice for replacing a wiring system in a car that is pretty much stock, but in a car with heavy mods, not so good. My car has zero stock electrical components except the headlights. I wanted to hide as much of the wiring as posible, so the best way to do that is to start at the component with the factory installed connector, and run the wires where needed to get hidden back to the panel. That is not an option if you have a system where the panel is prewired. Those are the reasons I chose an Express kit over the 24/7 kit. Other manufacturers will have the same two methods, so the one for you to choose will depend on your build.
Continued...

[RICH MUISE]

part3...
The EFI harness. When I first started looking years ago, Ron Francis was the only one who was making a harness for the 4.6 dohc, and they had a number of those available specific to the vintage....Mark viii's, Mustangs, etc. There are others available now, and for sure there are alot more options for the 5.0's.
There are suppliers that make plug and play harnesses, usually involving reflashing the computer. That's not what I wanted. I was thinking down the road, and didn't want a computer that was unique to my car. What if your on a roadtrip and the computer gets fried for what ever reason. Is the company that reprogrammed your computer still around, and how long is it going to take to get you up and running again? The RF kit uses the stock unmodified computer. I've already pulled a few from the salvage yards as backups, along with the ignition control module.
I mentioned I'm really short on electrical knowledge, as well as knowing what all that "stuff" is on a late model engine, and that's probably an understatement, so I really need the self tutorial that the one-wire-at-a-time kit is going to give me. Also, similar to the chassis harness choices, it would be pretty much imposible to try and hide the wires on a plug and play harness.
Well, that was a wordy reply...
Rich

[RICH MUISE]

We have some members of this forum that wouldn't have to go the route I went because they have extensive backgrounds in automotive electrics/electronics. Bill and the two Gary's would probably adapt an oem factory efi harness and save themseves a bunch of bucks. That's not for guys like me, imho, that have a limited background. I'd have to put the fire department on speed dial.

[Kenny]

Ok that was a great answer, thanks!

[gasman826]

One of the two Garys???

When I mock stuff up, wiring can be primitive.  Went on Power Tour with wires strung to the battery in the trunk.  NO fuse block...no fuses at all...wiring tied together with wire nuts.  Drive on but on watch for smoke, fire extinguisher at my side, and Amy knew how to head for the trunk and unhook the battery.

Not much faith in 57 year old wire.  Assembly going together with new Ron France harness.

[RICH MUISE]

Yup, one of the two. Which harness are you using?
Kenny...a pic of the Express fuse panel. I purchased their "drop-down" mounting bracket, which is the 1/4" aluminum plate you see at the back of the panel. I was anticipating the area to be more dificult for this old man to get in and out of than it actually is. If you look closely at the wires, they go upwards and form a loop, allowing the fuse panel to be lifted off the mounting bracket and dropped down for easier access. It runs about 90., is more work because all the wires have to be carefully routed to allow the drop down. As I mentioned, the area I chose is not that hard to get to, and I'll probably never have a reason to drop the fuse panel down for better accesibility, so I wouldn't suggest buying one, although the idea in general I think is pretty nifty. It's one of the built in features on their 24/7 system. All of the wire clips you see are just temporary until I get all the wiring finished, then I'll do a more permanent wrap/clamps, whatever is needed to neaten it up.

[gasman826]

I got the Express with longer wires.  I'm locating the fuse block under the console so I can remove the console box and pull the fuse block up and out for service.  The console is a more central location with the battery in the trunk.  The original TBird fuse block was behind the passenger kick panel.

[RICH MUISE]

Don't spill your coffee over the console....
Seriously, I think that's a good idea. The way I designed my console, I was originally planning on leaving the forward portion up under the dash open on both sides for kleenex, extra cigs, gun, whatever. Now I'm thinking that's the best place for the engine management harness and computer. If for no other reason, it gets it out from under the A/C - heat unit and potential moisture problems. I'll make removable covered side panels for it as I did the main console body, which will also give me a place for the two floor A/C vents and speakers.

[gasman826]

That would help with keeping a distance between the Vintage Air controller and the EFI controller.  If these are too close, they will pick up each other's stray voltage with nasty results.  Keep a distance from your MSD box also.

[Kenny]

Thanks for the pointers.  I purchased 2 88 Mustang EFI harnesses locally and have modified one of them to run my EFI 302 with a MAF add on which I got when I purchased my package of engine, transmissions and donor car 1987 Mustang.  My original plan was to use the wiring harness from the donor car however the donor car turned out too nice to scrap so I am preserving it for the next project.   Anyway after the harness was done and I looked at the vintage air system I plan and I need about 8 to 10 circuits including likely 2 circuit breakers for the air system.  Rich your system looks very nice but beyond my plans and the existing wiring in the Custom 300 is still in good condition.  I will likely get a simple fuse block for fused circuits and just mount the ac circuit breakers separate.  I made a new wiring diagram for the EFI harness for future use and will add that to original car wiring diagrams so my son can figure out what old Dad did after he inherits the car.  I plan to mount the EFI computer under the dash on the right side of the glove box,hopefully that will be far enough from the vintage air system.  Gasman I am curious about possible interference, never heard of that before?   Tell me more.

[Ford Blue blood]

In my 66 Falcon Ranchero I put the computer for EFI above the glove box.  Easy access, just remove the liner and there it is.  Welded a couple of studs to the underside and used the stock EFI controller holder.  Never had a heat problem, car was outdoors most of the time, and it ran like a top the entire time I owned it.

To reduce RF cross talk wrap the wires from the computer with heavy duty tin foil.  I use tin foil tape to tie it together and run a bare wire through the entire run between the layers of foil and put both ends to ground.  Just did the part under the dash.

[RICH MUISE]

"To reduce RF cross talk wrap the wires from the computer with heavy duty tin foil.  I use tin foil tape to tie it together and run a bare wire through the entire run between the layers of foil and put both ends to ground.  Just did the part under the dash."
Perfect timing for this tip..my efi system either shipped Friday or tommorrow. The patch panel is already prewired for the computer so those wires should be ready for the aluminum wrap.

[gasman826]

When the install instructions tell you to run a 'home-run" power supply to the battery, do it.  Interference can occur if more than one device uses the same power source.