How I modified my original steering shaft to use with new power steering box

[MrArt2u]

Hello all,

I am in the process of installing an ABS Power Brake power steering kit in our wagon. To do so the original steering column must be modified (or replaced with an aftermarket column/steering wheel.) The original shaft is hollow in the center to accommodate the horn wiring. The end that goes in to the rag joint (or u-joint if you're using a rack and pinion set up) must be machined for a DD profile. Because the '57 shaft is hollow, this was not possible so I had the original shaft cut down and the edges chamfered. I then had a solid 3/4" shaft (also with chamfered edges for better weld penetration) welded on to the end. This solid portion was them machined in to a DD.

I consider myself a competent welder but, for this type of job, I handed it over to a professional fabricator. I've attached the original drawing I gave him for the project. In it, I specified a collar welded over the weld joint but they felt it was strong enough without it. They did machine the weld down in case I wanted to add the collar later.

Since I didn't have the rag joint I would be using in hand yet, I gave them a rough measurement of 30-3/8" length and I would cut it to size. In the end that dimension was closer than I had anticipated, I only had to shave about 3/8" off of it. Now that was close! I suggest you measure very carefully if you do this modification. It's better to be too long than too short.

I still have to work with the horn wire-I'll be using an old Willys horn contact bushing on the shaft, and wrap up the outer steering column housing work. I will update this thread once I do that in a couple of weeks (Vegas trip next weekend means no car work for a bit.)

Cheers!
Art.

[hiball3985]

That worked out nicely for you. I would add the collar just to be extra safe if it was mine, the cost and time is minimal for what is gained..

[MrArt2u]

I ended up adding a nice, strong collar over the joint for piece of mind. I found a heavy duty 2" long spacer with a 3/4" i.d. at the local Ace hardware that was just about perfect for the job. I machined it to be a tight fit over the weld, pressed it on and welded it in place. Peace of mind for about 3 bucks.

[clusterbuster]

That looks like it will hold forever. I just modified my steering shaft and column to change over to a manual 62 Galaxy box. My car has column standard shift, so it was quite involved to get it set up right for the shifting etc. I cut the column off about two inches and welded a splinned coupler on the cut off end of my original shaft. I then drilled through the coupler and shaft and put a grade eight bolt in the hole, then welded the holes shut. I installed two 1-38 OD bearings on the shaft before I put the coupler on the shaft and put them a couple inches up inside the column. I then made two braces to fasten to the column at the shifter pivot clamp and fastened them to the top of the steering box. It makes the column rigid so it will not flex when shifting gears. I road tested and it shifts as good as ever and the steering is better and tighter. In the future, I may change over to power steering as well. What exactly was the name of the collar you purchased at Ace Hardware? We have an Ace not too far from here, and I might need a collar like that to splice my shaft as well. Thanks. Don

[MrArt2u]

Hey Don,

Your setup sounds like what I thought I had to do to mine. Using the floor shift made things a lot easier for us and I was able to use a flange bearing at the end of the steering column tube.
I went back to the hardware store to see what I bought, it was on the wall of drawers with all the little lifesaver things like roll pins and e-clips. It's just listed as a steel spacer, here's a picture for you of what it looks like in the store. Let me know if you can't find one locally, I can probably pop one in the mail for you.

Cheers,
Art

[clusterbuster]

Thanks Art for going out of your way to let me know what you used from Ace. Next time I am down that way , I will see if they have the steel collars as you pictured. If you haven't looked at the Member rides, mine is the Custom 4 door with some pictures. Thanks again and have a very nice Thanksgiving.  Don

[lalessi1]

Art
What did the ABS power steering kit cost if you dont mind my asking. Do you know the steering ratio? Turns lock to lock?
I am debating using one of these versus R&P. Happy wih the quality/fit/completeness of the kit? It looks great online but there is little info.
Lynn

[clusterbuster]

Art,
I would like to add to the last post and ask you the brand of box that you put in your car, and how much in inches did you have to cut your steering column off. I cannot go any higher than the shift pivot clamp when it comes to the cut off point of a standard shift column. Also did you have to use an adapter plate on the frame to mount your steering box? Some of the conversions use a plate. Thanks. Don

[MrArt2u]

Hey guys, I haven't finished the install yet, I just ran into a bit of a pulley snafu when I went to install the fan belt. This was not related to the p/s kit, more so the previous owner's attempt to line up the water pump pulley using an unsafe spacer between it and the water pump. I have to figure that out before I could test the system and give an accurate review but, for now, I'll answer what I can.

The cost for the kit was approximately $650 (I can't tell you exactly, it was part of a package deal, we got front and rear disc brake kit from them as well.)
The box is a single cast ABS box with the number 567 cast in to it. I *think* it is  based on 605 internals (can't find my notes right now) and was told it can be rebuilt at any shop with standard parts, if necessary. There are no plates welded on to it, like the Borgeson, and it does not require any further adapter plates. It bolts right up to the frame. The lock to lock is right about 3.5 turns.

The kit included the steering box, the saginaw style pump, bracket and spacers/hardware for your motor (in my case a 302), the hoses, and a u-joint. The pitman arm was supposed to be included but when I went to pick up the kit he told me I would have to send mine in for modification (they machine the splines so it fits better onto the box.) I also exchanged my u-joint for a rag joint for several reasons- it's a straight shot to the box, I wanted to cut down the amount of vibration transmitted through the steering, and the rag joint is about 3/4" shorter than the u-joint-meaning 3/4" less to cut off my steering column.

I ended up cutting about 5 3/4" off the end of the column. The end of the outer column ended up almost exactly at the firewall, if not in the cabin a little. My floor plates are pretty bent and crusty but I was able to bolt them back up and seal the column. I do not see how you can use the original column shift with this setup. I cut it back over an inch past the shift pivot clamp.

The kit is mostly a bolt on. The p/s pump bolts right up (though they gave me 3/8" bolts instead of 7/16"-that meant a trip to the hardware store) The spacers and bracket were right on the money, though the bracket only supports the pump from behind. I've had problems with this style pump leaking from the o-ring in other similar custom applications so I may find a different bracket that also supports it from the front. I would have preferred the extra work of making my own hoses so I could run them neater, but they look like they'll work fine as-is. The only tough part in the install is figuring out what steering column works best for you and making it work, but that's what hot rodding is all about. I modified the original and it turned out great, I even got the horn to work and rebuilt the turn signal switch so all the lights work now, and capped it off with a shiny NOS (or very beautifully restored) steering wheel we found at the Pomona swap meet.

Again, I have no idea how it will work, I'm a few weeks from getting it on the road, but, for now, I'm very happy with the purchase. Any problems we have encountered with any ABS parts have been cheerfully resolved by Pedro and his team.  They have gone out of their way to help me with even little things, like sourcing that flange bearing for my steering column or sending me custom length spacers for our rear disc install. It helps that I see them at Pomona and Long Beach swaps and that I'm only about 45 minutes away and can pop in for parts or questions. As of right now, I'm happy because their customer service is some of the best I've encountered lately. But ask me again once I've road tested this thing and actually put some leak-free miles on it.

As always, your mileage may vary...

Cheers,
Art.

[lalessi1]

Art,
Awesome info! Thank you for taking your time to answer all these questions.
Thanks,
Lynn