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57 Country Sedan in So Calif

Started by robhaerr, 2008-03-17 10:43

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robhaerr

Nice to see this forum!

I have had this wagon for about 3 years and look forward to checking in for help on projects and reading about yours. The color is a variation of 2004 Hummer Orange. The white is "Chevy Truck White White" with a dash of pearl for a nice bright contrast.  I bought this with the interior and exterior finished. The previous owner, unfortunately, put a Chevy 350/350 Turbo trans in it...needless to say, a good strong cruiser Ford motor is in the plans...but I have to say that it runs very good/sounds nice in the meantime...I am better off not opening the hood at cruise nights, tho!

Next project is putting stock front springs back in. Previous owner cut the front springs a bit too much to lower, but the geometry is bad and drive is mushy...looks good, but doesn't drive too well at speeds over 50. I will see where stock springs put the stance...then may use Granada spindles to lower 2 inches. I already installed front power discs and put in new rear springs/bushings. Manual steering. This car was a great driveable bargain with many projects left in her.  It's a driver...gets nice attention since there aren't many of these out here!

Rob


robhaerr

Here are a few more photos...no flames on the motor, please...I have heard it enough already...but I understand if some of you feel the need to put your own digs in. I did put the Edelbrock air cleaner, valves covers on to spruce it up a tad...and it does run real good.

Previous owner put the speakers in the front door panels...I would have put them in the kick panels or someplace else. They really messed up a nice looking door panel. Another reason I got the car for a good price.

Rob






57 Ford Kustom

Rob :006:
    Welcome to wonderful world of 57 Fords.  Hope you feel welcome even after remarks about the scrub moter. If you want a drop in the front go with http:Jamcosuspension.com   The have lowered springs up to 3" I am installing 3" dropped springs and granada disc brakes on mine . Will not know how low that will be becouse we have snow up to the bottom of the windows stills.
    Happy days are ahead just keep the hood shut :003: :deadhorse:



TOM  :unitedstates:  :burnout:
aka:Bluedot Kid 2
To fast to live, to young to die.

robhaerr

Thanks, Tom...

Will those Jamco front coil springs still work with stock spindles AND keep the geometry correct?

I was trying to call Jamco a few months ago...they had a death in the family which had them down for a few weeks...are they back in business? There seemed to be a question whether their business would continue, according to their phone message.

Rob

57 Ford Kustom

Rob  :006:


   Give them a call I called a couple weeks ago and had the springs in a week inc. shipping from one coast to another. What I did is leave a phone # on their answering machine and he called the next day.
   My understanding is that they are a replacement spring modified for the lowering, He will ask you all the same questions as a parts person would down to with or without air and factory air or after market.
I used them on another project pick up of unmentioned brand and worked good.



TOM :unitedstates:   :burnout:
aka:Bluedot Kid 2
To fast to live, to young to die.

KidKourier

Rob,  Another choice besides dropped spindles,try Eaton Detroit Spring,Inc. (www.eatonsprings.com) they are the original suppliers for(Ford,Chevy,etc.).I talked with them and they said that they could make any type coil spring for my sedan delivery( height,lbs.rate,progressive rate,etc.).I was thinking 58 wagon with 352c.i.,power steering,air,etc. with a 2" shorter length,and a little more spring rate for a firmer ride. Tell them what your trying to do and they'll be glad to help recommend something! SKIP :006:

robhaerr

Thanks, KidKourier...

So...these 2" drop coils from Jamco and/or Eaton will keep the geometry correct so a good alignment can be achieved? I phone call to them will answer that question.

The previous owner cut the stock coils and the stance is where I like...but the geometry is in such a way that it cannot be adjusted for a good alignment.

I had given up on the Jamco idea awhile ago because of the geometry issue. Several of my mechanic friends said it just wasn't possible..."You need to go back to the stock spring and dropped spindles to get the alignment correct".

As it is now, both front tires wear on the most inner 1" of tread, but it drives straight...until you hit a bump at 50 mph, then the front sways.

At $275-350...that would be cheaper than stock springs at around $250, and dropped spindles at a few hundred, too.

Thanks for the renewed food for thought...I have been reading the other threads on this subject in other parts of this forum, too...57agin's 300 seems to have everything I want nailed pretty well...same ride height with a good alignment, 351W (I would go a bit milder for this wagon, tho)...just need cash!

Rob

57AGIN

Rob:

Thanks for the kind words.  You have a really fine looking Country Sedan.  Hopefully, you can make it out to Knott's Berry Farm on April 20th, or Seal Beach on April 26th, or Cal state Fullerton on April 27th and we can discuss some of the options available. 

Right now my 57 is "temporarily" out of service, undergoing a conversion of my big 9" vacuum booster power brake system to a much smaller and better looking electric/hydraulic braking system.  It should be ready in another couple of weeks.  Tearing it down one month before the good weather & car show season is here took a leap of faith.  But, I am really looking forward to using the new system.  Richard already has it in his Custom 300 (57TUDOR) and says it is great.  My bigest concern right now is where to mount the electric/hydraulic pump, as I don't have the same room on the frame below the reservoir that Richard's fenderwell header car has.  Test fitting it tonight.  Wish me luck.

Bob
57AGIN   

robhaerr

Bob...

Good luck on your brake project!

As you can see from the photo of the "slug engine", I have the big power brake unit, too. Wagon stops great now, and the slotted rotors look good. I wish I would have known more about my front end problem at the time, I would have put stock springs and drop spindles on at the same time. I did the brakes as soon as I bought the wagon.

After my mechanic installed the front disc brakes...he started on getting the alignment. He had a heck of a time getting it to drive straight. When it finally felt good behind the wheel, both front tires are "toed out" with a negative camber. That's when we discovered the coils had been cut, and he couldn't get a proper alignment...the front ride height is even on both sides...right at 13 1/2" at the bottom of the front bumper bolt on the side.

Before I replaced the original rear springs, shackles, bushings a few months with new stock units...the whole car had a "wave"/rear steer feel to it when you went over uneven road. I thought the new rear set-up would tighten it all up. It did tighten up the rear...but now the front has a sway from left to right, right to left when you hit uneven road. I am hoping it is just the front springs/funky alignment.

When the previous owner installed the Chevy "slug motor" (it's no 11 second car...but it does run nice), they left the rear sump oil pan and lowered the steering linkage to clear the pan. I am hoping that the steering linkage (manual) isn't causing part of the sway...I wouldn't think so.

My mechanic (different from the one who did the power brakes) who did the R & R on the rear springs assured me that the car is "put together very well". He is a "Chevy guy", so he had his own humor for the engine. This mechanic recommends stock springs/drop spindles...and a 302.

I am partial to a 351W with an AOD trans, but a Ford motor will be a big expense. Check out this web site (these guys are in New Jersey) and look at the video clip on the page...is nearly $6,000 a price to expect for a mildly stout cruiser motor at the numerous engine shops in So Calif, too?
http://www.proformanceunlimited.com/specs/351_350drop.html

Several mechanics have told me to leave the Chevy SB in there. But it is obviously uncool to have a Chevy SB in a full-size Ford...early roadsters are OK...but not these 57s.

I also have a 56 T-Bird with the 312 and prefer not to have another Y-block.

Hope to see you and your car soon...I will be at the NHRA Twilight cruises on the first Wed of the month at the Pomona Fairplex occasionally. My schedule with another hobby keeps me busy from going to some of those car shows...playing drums in a rock band... http://www.ravelers.com

Sorry for the long post...
Rob


Frankenstein57

Rob, if you get your car up in the air, take a picture of the altered steering- and post it. This could be some of your steering issues, this car has a ton of bump steer to start with. I'd be curious to see how it was altered. thanks, Mark

robhaerr

Mark...

The car steers well...except for the bump steer...it's the sway that is scary at speed! I'll see if I can snap a photo of the steering linkage...it's not real pretty, just lowered to clear the pan. I have to be careful because it's the lowest part of the undercarriage.

Rob

robhaerr

Mark...

Here is the steering linkage. A "custom bend" welded extension downward on the center link basically lowered the entire linkage. The bend you see on the spindle connecting rod is what it looks like in the OEM shop manual on page 5-9. The idler arm on the passenger side doesn't look much different than stock. Not pretty, like I said...it's the ugliest part of the car. Of course, when time comes to put a Ford motor in here, the steering would be re-done, too. Hmmm, none of the catalogs I have seem to sell the entire linkage, just idler arms and tie rods.

Anybody got an extra $12,000 or so for a 351W, AOD trans, drive shaft, Wurth power steering rack unit, vintage a/c & heater...and installation?


shopratwoody

#12
Just a few comments on your front end or your mech? Can't you adjust the toe with
the tie rod? The camber will not make the car sway, actually it will corner better.
I realize this isn't the way you want it, but something isn't right here. Won't shims
bring the camber back? Someting else is wrong, You are getting stroked bad.
I hope you have some better luck....
Good Luck, Ron :003:
BTW, does the car have the anti sway bar on it?
I hate blocksanding!

robhaerr

Ron...

The car does have the front sway bar. Many shims that show how evident the toe-out is.

Bottom line...it's time to get this wagon to Jim Sleeper, suspension guru. He did work on one of my Dad's normal "civilian" cars when other alignment shops couldn't get it. I have looked for his number several times, but those that were referenced in magazine articles were disconnected.

A rodder friend of mine gave me his number a couple of months ago...time to see if he is home somewhere near me. He did this wagon...
http://www.customrodder.com/tech/0207cr_blue_oval_bolt_on_binders/

Been doing a lot of talking and thinking about this...time to find the time to do something about it.

Rob

robhaerr

Awesome...found Jim Sleeper!

Gonna go see him on Monday.

The excitement is overwhelming!