update on Rich's build

[RICH MUISE]

The new springs that were delivered are for the back. I needed those, shocks, and the  missing tire/wheel to get the back in it's final resting spot so I could then address the front height issue.
Now with any luck I'll also have the rear end back from the shop before too long.

[RICH MUISE]

I've been extremly lazy the past few weeks, so haven't got much to update. I got my new rear springs painted, as well as the new u-bolts. I also picked up new rubber insulators and shackles today. They only had two metal insulator retainers, so got those, but I'll have to order two more from concorse.
I got a call from the shop modifying my rear end...he got it narrowed and ordered the axels today, so hopefully by the end of next week it'll be ready. He was just calling me to update it's progress...which was nice.

[lalessi1]

I don't ever remember anybody calling me to give an unsolicited update....maybe there is hope after all! 

[RICH MUISE]

I'm still waiting for my differential to be finished. I did get two more isolator retainers from Concours for the springs. Everything with the springs has been replaced with new now except for the lower spring/shockmount plates, which I need to get sandblasted and painted.
I ordered two Magnaflow mufflers yesterday...pn11266...straight through series. I hope these are what I'm looking for! They're 4x9x18 offset/offset.
When I haven't been too lazy, I've been cleaning up/touching up the underside a bit where I got too messy with overspray from painting the body.
My insurance with Grundy is finalized now, and I registered the car. In Texas, the Antique plates I got do not require an inspection for the vehicle. After my car has made the rounds of any alignments shops, exhaust, etc. I'll have it inspected and change to unrestricted classic plates. I also applied for a Texas title, since the one I was issued years ago was Colorado. It'll make things easier on my wife if anything happens to me, or I sell the car. When the Texas title comes,it will have a note on it stating that the vin number has to be verified. This is normally done at the same time as the safety inspection, but since I'm getting the antique plates for the time being with no inspection, I get the Vin verification notice on the title.
Funny....My wife bought a '15 Honda CR-V this week...when I called USAA to get things changed, I asked if there was any reason they had to be aware of any vehicle I owned that was insured thru another company. That's when I found out USAA now insures classic cars!!! They never did before, Next year I'll check with them before renuing with Grundy. I've been with USAA since '70 or '71.

[Ford Blue blood]

That is great news, did not hear USAA now does classics!  I too will be checking with them.  Been with them since 93, was with State Farm prior to that because they also did my 36.

[RICH MUISE]

USAA has a company they go thru, it's not USAA. American something or other. Probably better that way if they work like a classic car insurance co. should instead of a traditional thinking company....agreed value vs. stated value, etc.
My differential is suppose to be ready tommorrow...I'm hoping the estimate wasn't too far off. Like I told him, I wasn't expecting any big surprises cost wise since we literally were replacing/addressing everything anyways. Not like he coulda found other stuff that needed doing.

[RICH MUISE]

I picked up my differential this morning. I'm really happy with it, and he even painted it for me. I did have it cleaned off pretty much and ready for paint, figured I'd do it after welding was done, but now I won't have to. Final cost was exactly as estimated, 2k. I'm happy with that also. Flange to flange is now 56". I do need to double check the flange offset, but should be and looks like 2 1/2". The taller yoke looks to be exactly what I needed for ideal driveshaft spline engagement. I also need to check flange bolt pattern to confirm the old style big bearing pattern as planned.
It now has 31 spline axles, a Yukon locker,new 3.50 gears, new seals, bearings. He replaced all the t-bolts and studs.
Now I've got to go muscle it out of my wagon.

[RICH MUISE]

Tommorrow hopefully I'll get that differential put back in. I checked everything I mentioned above, and it's all as it was suppose to be. As George use to say..."I love it when a plan comes together".
I got some of the area back there is all touched up from overspray, etc, the leaf springs are front mounted, and I picked up a new ujoint to hook up to the new (different joint size) yoke. This time it was easier. A stock '95 Lincoln ujoint was only needing 2 caps 1 1/8" dia to  replace the oem 1 1/16...and I already had those new caps on a new unused joint sitting on my shelves. The Lincoln leg length was the same as the new yoke.

[RICH MUISE]

The differential is in. Really was a lot less trouble than I thought it would be...other than getting all the way down to the garage floor and back up numerous times.  I still have to go back and tighten all the spring's bolts.
I pulled the driveshaft and got the new u-joint installed. The taller yoke I had installed on the differential worked out perfectly. After the ujoint is pulled from it's "nest" and the driveshaft is pushed forward all the way, I have less than 3/8 clearance to let the shaft down.
With the taller yoke having a longer and larger ujoint leg than the oem '57, all I had to do was get a stock '95 Mark VIII (donor car) ujoint and change one set of caps to 1 1/8" dia.

I stopped by the local custom exhaust shop and had them make me up two 26" pipes with a female bell flare on one end to mate up with the H-pipe. That'll get the magnaflows back behind the footwell area...at least for now. I may try and throw those on tommorrow just to hear them!!
I wished I had the rear brakes at this time so I could figure the e-brake cable routing first, then the exhaust around that.

[Ford Blue blood]

Rich my mufflers are offset entry and centered exit.  If I remember correctly you are using the stock emergency brake levers and cable to the crossmember.  My pipes are routed up tight against the floor (1 - 1 1/2") down the edge of the tunnel.  The stock cables from the lever to the brackets on the frame just touch the bottom of the pipes.  Just a little tweek will get them off the pipe.  The floor pan support was the tightest area, plenty of room in front of it and behind.  I will post a couple of pics this afternoon of the routing and the hanger.

[RICH MUISE]

Yes, everything stock with the ebrake cables.  I'll keep an eye open for those pics, Bill...thanks.
Yes, btw, I've already noticed the floor support under the footwell.

[Ford Blue blood]

Here ya go, hope they are of some help!

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks for posting those, Bill I can see where keeping the pipes tucked in close to the driveshaft will help clear the e brake cables. Not sure if I can do that because of the fairly wide H pipe I've got, but I'll have a look at it. I got thinking this morning (shouldn't do that, I know) even though I don't have the back brakes yet, I do have the old back end cables that I can run thru the frame brackets in front of each wheel, and that should be all I need.

[RICH MUISE]

Some pics...love that shiney new stuff

[57 imposter]

That installation really looks first rate! Im like you, I love bolting in new/fresh parts knowing that for the most part, that is the last time I will have to touch them.