AOD Trans conversion

[gasman826]

I torched the first two AODs before I could get the car off the hoist.  Very frustrating and embarrassing.  An AOD behind a 351w is not the same as a AOD behind a 302.  The flexplate is unique to the 351w.  The B&M torque converter was NOT happy without a B&M 351w flexplate (a fact they forgot to mention).  I collected a pile of AODs, AODEs, 4R70s and 4R75s from every Craigslist, Marketplace and local ad within 50 miles for no more than core price of $125.  I mix and match the newest upgrade, heavy duty, condition and aftermarket performance parts to Frankenstein together to make a hard shifting, durable overdrive.

I too like virgin transmissions.  It seems that every transmission someone else has been in has at least one assembly mistake. 

The AOD does have a couple of special tools but other than that, I used the same transmission tools I bought nearly 50 years ago.

[djfordmanjack]

Gary, can you please specify the problem with the 351/flexplate and AOD.
reason I am asking. I plan to put a 5L (302) Mustang AOD behind a '69 351.....

[gasman826]

302s and AODs are very common and there isn't a problem.  The 351w with AOD combo was less common.  The 28 oz balance flexplate from a 28 oz balanced 302 did not work with B&M 3000 stall converter.  There was no torque converter end play so the pump was ate up in less that a minute of runtime.  I added a second block plate to get minimum converter end play.  I didn't like it and wanted more.  I researched B&M website and found they offered a 28 oz flexplate for 351w...no mention of the 302.  I installed the B&M flexplate and got a little more end play...not as much as is common among other makes but more than I had.  I never installed a stock converter to see if it was a B&M issue or a 351w/AOD issue.  The AOD has survived five summers now even with the 351 stroked to 408 at 550 hp.  The AOD with 4R70 gear set and LENTECH valve body performance is impressive.

[djfordmanjack]

That is great additional info, much appreciated !!! probably saved my transmission.
Both the AOD and 351 are out of the cars and I can 'play' with them on the bench/shop. stock converter. will be very careful checking the converter end play. how much would you think is ok ?

[gasman826]

I've never read a spec for converter end play...just there needs to be some.  But, if I had to put a number to it...minimum .030".  I have .040-.050".

[Ford Blue blood]

I know this is a little basic, the AOD torque converter goes in with three "clicks" vs the normal two for the non AODs.  My AOD behind the 351C has close to 1/16" play between all the way in and seated against the flex plate.

[djfordmanjack]

great info, thx !

.050 / 1/16th is in the same range, about 1.25-1.5 mm ( metric) for me...

[RICH MUISE]

Rich, I'm almost afraid to ask if there are any updates.

[ROKuberski]

Rich,

Well, yes.  The transmission that I last mentioned (#5) the current rebuilder wanted to see if we could find a better core.  So, the original guy did come up with another core (#6) and upon disassembly they decided to go back to #5.  I told them to just buy what ever additional parts are necessary and I will cover the cost.  The list was not all that big, items worth about $150 - $200.  They received the parts by Tuesday of this week and went to work on it Wednesday.  Today was my day at the RR museum, so, if all went well, I will pick up the transmission in the morning.

I should have it back in the car and ready for driving either Friday or Saturday.

If my crystal ball had told me of all this crap, I would have just bought a unit from Monster Transmission.  They have had their AOD's on sale for $1,195, plus shipping, plus providing and shipping to them a core, plus a convertor, plus sales tax, plus, plus, plus.   After all, it's only money, no big deal.  Well, like most of us, I do have limits and I like to do as much as I can.  I also think I am smart enough to know what I can't do.  I've never ripped into an automatic transmission.  A guy at the current shop was telling me, "it's no big deal - you could do it your self."  I told him I would be glad to rebuild his transmission first, then I would try to do one for myself. 

There are YouTube videos that show the disassembly and reassembly of these transmissions.  With a few special tools, I do think I might well have been able to do this - BUT, I did not try and I think this may well be the last automatic transmission I will consider doing work on.

In the back of my mind I still think of building a car someday.  I would have to get rid of either the '02 Corvette or the Fairlane.  No more room and I won't leave a car out in the weather here.  Snow/Wind/Hail/intense sun/etc.

Anyway, I will have what I hope is a final update in just a few days.

Take care,

Rich

[ROKuberski]

The saga continues.

I got the rebuilt transmission back and installed it in the car.  Filled it with oil, got it warmed up and reset the adjustment for the Throttle Valve cable.  Off I went.  Car shifted a little hard, but it did go up through the gears.  About a mile from home I came to a complete stop and was watching the transmission pressure.  It was high.  I had my wrenches with me so I tried to readjust the TV cable.  Can't do it.  I am at 70 psi and it won't go down.  I disconnect the TV cable from the EFI and manually pull on the cable.  It's moving freely and I can move it through it full range of motion.  No change in the pressure.  I drive it back home and it won't come out of first gear.  Not surprising since the pressure is so high.  I have an appointment at 8:00 tomorrow morning at the shop.

Meanwhile, back in my garage two hours after the test drive, I check and the pressure is back to normal.  When it's hot, something is sticking.  They want to examine the valve body.

To be continued.......

[lalessi1]

Wow! I may be completely rid of the the thought to switch to an automatic....

[RICH MUISE]

On the positive side, if there is one, can you imagine going thru all this s#%t with a tranny you bought that was shipped in?
I think about now, I'd be looking for a driveable beater that has the tranny you want.

[ROKuberski]

First off:  Lalessi1 - I would hope that NO ONE would have a repeat of my problems and I would not let this discourage you.

Now, for what I hope is the final update:  I drove over to the transmission shop this morning.  I left early because I thought I might be driving over in 1st gear.  Well, as they say, today was a new day.  It shifted normally on my drive to the shop.  We discussed options and decided that I should do more test driving.  So I drove about 5 miles on side streets and all seemed fine.  Then I launched onto the Interstate and did about 10 miles, still in pretty good shape.  It was slow going into overdrive.  At 65, the RPM's dropped from about 2,500 down to about 1,800.

Went back to the shop and decided to wait for a while and see if any of the shifting problems come back.  At this point I put in the test gauge and measured 28 PSI, yesterday I had it set to 34 PSI with the recommended starting point of 35 PSI. 

Starting off in 1st gear gives the car a lot more pep.  Keep in mind that at 5,600' where I live there is about a 17% reduction in rated power at sea level. 

I have now earned my "transmission remove/install" merit badge. 

Next project is to replace the 25 year old valve guide seals, but not today. 

[ROKuberski]

Here is a link to the video.

https://youtu.be/9-L2kuIHpLI

Rich

[djfordmanjack]

Rich, that is a great video containing many good ideas on the shift levers, trans mount aso. Thanx for posting!
concerning your latest shifting issue, which healed itself. Do you think it's possible that there was still some air bubbles trapped somehere in the system or valvebody, that possibly bleeded overnight ? Guenter